OP
nikdfish
Platinum Member
Got a call that it is done, will pick it up tomorrow PM. Repair cost is $812.50
Looking at a hydraulic offset flail for the 3038e -It's Home!
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IXLR8
Veteran Member
Do you know enough about what caused it to prevent it from happening again?
OP
nikdfish
Platinum Member
Nope, I'll see if they have any idea about the cause tomorrow, or suggestions as to what to look out for. Could be it was a long standing defect that just showed up when exposed to the right stress.
OP
nikdfish
Platinum Member
Tractor is back & I hooked up the flail for the first time (myself).
Turns out the flail drive line incorporates an over-running clutch. It should have been obvious by the long spin down when the PTO was shut down. In any case, it makes PTO shaft hookup easier when you can index the shaft rotation without resistance.
I also got around to color coding the hydraulic hookups with some colored zip ties.
Turns out the flail drive line incorporates an over-running clutch. It should have been obvious by the long spin down when the PTO was shut down. In any case, it makes PTO shaft hookup easier when you can index the shaft rotation without resistance.
I also got around to color coding the hydraulic hookups with some colored zip ties.
OP
nikdfish
Platinum Member
Turns out the installer of the 4th & 5th SCV kit put the label on the wrong side, over the levers instead of over the quick connects. SCV 4 does indeed have a float detent. I have the diverter currently connected to SCV 4 and not SCV 5.
I will print up some labels to correctly identify what's what. I don't think the decal would survive removal/replacement.
I will print up some labels to correctly identify what's what. I don't think the decal would survive removal/replacement.
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OP
nikdfish
Platinum Member
The tractor is 14 years old. If regarding the decal, I could probably get a replacement, I haven't asked yet.
OP
nikdfish
Platinum Member
Got out & spent a couple of hours running the flail, doing the back field area.
before
during
after
Still getting a feel for proper positioning for flat mowing (draft/toplink/mower tilt).
Before starting I ziptied a shop towel over the gearbox vent.
After two hours mowing flat & vertical, no new grease on the housing, just a collection in the towel, suggesting what I had seen earlier came from the vent following orientation changes.
before
during
after
Still getting a feel for proper positioning for flat mowing (draft/toplink/mower tilt).
Before starting I ziptied a shop towel over the gearbox vent.
After two hours mowing flat & vertical, no new grease on the housing, just a collection in the towel, suggesting what I had seen earlier came from the vent following orientation changes.
OP
nikdfish
Platinum Member
The 3038e is living at the house these days, I trailer it out to the acreage as needed. The Z930m is what cuts the fields most of the time (twice as fast & easier to transport).
Since the 3038e is available I have been using it & the flail to do the developement road side cutting that I had been doing with the 1025R & finish mower. Way less stress with the flail as there are some steep areas that had the 1025R "crabbing" when traction was less than optimal & some deep drops to the ditch in places. I can still do the same swath with the 3038e & offset flail while keeping at least one set of tires on the pavement.
The finish mower has been stored & the backhoe is back on the 1025R these days.
Since the 3038e is available I have been using it & the flail to do the developement road side cutting that I had been doing with the 1025R & finish mower. Way less stress with the flail as there are some steep areas that had the 1025R "crabbing" when traction was less than optimal & some deep drops to the ditch in places. I can still do the same swath with the 3038e & offset flail while keeping at least one set of tires on the pavement.
The finish mower has been stored & the backhoe is back on the 1025R these days.
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