3-Point Hitch Log splitter

/ Log splitter #1  

IamBob

New member
Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
3
Location
Vernon Parish, Louisiana
Tractor
Mahindra 3525 / 2525
I have a 3525 with a Front end loader and no remote hydralics hook up. My question is can I mount a 3 point hitch log splitter and use the FEL hydralics too power it. If so does the brand of log splitter make a difference? And are any other considerations? I'm not sure of the questions I should ask, so please feel free to comment.

Thanks
Bob
 
/ Log splitter #2  
Bob, I don't have a 3 point hitch log splitter, so no experience here. But I am pretty sure if you buy the right one it will have it's own hydraulic pump on it. This pump would be driven by your rear "PTO" shaft so you wouldn't have to mess with your loader hydraulic's. Ken.
 
/ Log splitter #3  
New atttachments are neat, but just how many arm loads of fire wood do you need in a year in LA! just kidding, I think that you'll find that the tractor is much more handy to have available while you're splitting (not sitting there running your splitter) to fetch rounds and cary away splits. Better to put hours on a small gas eng. than your tractor.
 
/ Log splitter #4  
I have a 3525 with a Front end loader and no remote hydralics hook up. My question is can I mount a 3 point hitch log splitter and use the FEL hydralics too power it. If so does the brand of log splitter make a difference? And are any other considerations? I'm not sure of the questions I should ask, so please feel free to comment.

Thanks
Bob

You probably could do that, however, you would need to disconnect the tilt on the bucket and then use that lever to power the splitter cylinder. Ken Sweet
 
/ Log splitter #5  
I personally don't believe you will have enough pump GPM's to supply your splitter. My splitter runs at 20 Gallons Per minute. I might be wrong on your application.. . .john
 
/ Log splitter #6  
a long set of hoses and the connectors will probably cost as much as the power beyond kit. I bought the kit from JD for my 870 model, and it took about 1-1/2 hrs to install. wasn't hard at all. I'm not sure that the flow thru the tilt lines would be enuf. but i may be wrong (wouldn't be the first time)
 
/ Log splitter #7  
I have an 1815 and have the same thing in mind to run a 3-point hitch splitter off the tractor.
I just installed the power beyond kit and a 2 spool remote valve.
I got a used cylinder and I'm having the base and top bracket welded to an I-beam at a local welding shop.
I know it will be slow but it beats splitting by hand.
 

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/ Log splitter #8  
I have an 1815 and have the same thing in mind to run a 3-point hitch splitter off the tractor.
I just installed the power beyond kit and a 2 spool remote valve.
I got a used cylinder and I'm having the base and top bracket welded to an I-beam at a local welding shop.
I know it will be slow but it beats splitting by hand.

If anyone has the same idea, I have one that is already welded up. $375. Ken Sweet
 

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/ Log splitter #9  
/ Log splitter #10  
I have a 3525 with a Front end loader and no remote hydralics hook up. My question is can I mount a 3 point hitch log splitter and use the FEL hydralics too power it. If so does the brand of log splitter make a difference? And are any other considerations? I'm not sure of the questions I should ask, so please feel free to comment.

Thanks
Bob

Just make sure it has an open center valve. It will depend on the cyl size as how fast the cycle time is. You remove the curl hoses and run a set of hoses to the back,. Be sure to mark the hose according to which way you will latch down the lever for the curl. If you have a hyd gage, you can plug it in to the QD's and determine which is pressure. Just activate the lever momentary to get an indication of the pressure. That pressure goes to the in port on the log splitter valve. It is not good for the log splitter valve to see reverse pressure, so put the FEL valve in the same position all the time you are log splitting.

If your log splitter is a 4 in cyl with a 2 in shaft, and 24 in, then your cycle time will be 16.6 sec.

There are log splitting valves out there, that will increase your cycle time, like fast extend, and other valves that, once set, the log splitting is automatic for the complete cycle. They are made by Prince. They are more expensive, but if you need things like that, they are out there. They might be an option, so shop carefully., and weigh the advantages of the products that enhances the operation of a log splitter.
 
/ Log splitter #11  
I have a 2007 Mahindra 6500 4WD with FEL. It has 4 hydraulic connectors in the rear. I am trying to make my log splitter work on it, it is a homemade vertical hydraulic splitter with a regular hydraulic log splitter valve. It has been working fine on my 1973 IH 464. However, when I plug it into the Mahindra, I can't get it to work. One problem is the Mahindra valve won't stay open to allow flow to the splitter, and when I hold it in place the relief valves trips. I see a plug in a port on the back of the Mahindra hydraulic valve assembly, I wonder if that would help me get flow to the splitter without tripping the relief valve. Can anyone offer any insight on this? Thanks, Doug
 
/ Log splitter #12  
I was thinking of a similar type of setup.
I went to a hydraulics shop for some advice and the guy I was dealing with recommended not to go with that type of setup as it may not work having a valve on the tractor feeding the log spliter valve.
My tractor is small enough where I'll be close to the splitter and be able to reach the valve on the tractor to operate it without having another valve on the splitter.
The splitter I'm having made won't have a hydraulic valve, just lines going into the tractor remote valve.
Like the splitter 'sweettractors' posted.

You might want to try posting this on the hydraulics forum or talk to a someone at a hydraulics shop or tractor dealer.
 
/ Log splitter #13  
The quick couplers on the tractor and the ones on the splitter hoses, have spring loaded valves to close them off. If one of them valves are stuck, it will react like you are explaining. The male ends on your hoses, tap the end of them with a hammer to be sure they are free and the female ends on the tractor use a screw driver to push into them and make sure they are free. I am willing to bet this is your problem. Also make sure the tractor is shut off when you do this. If I didn't explain it well enough, feel free to call me.
 

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