Log Splitter Valve maybe?

[LD1]

My vote is the 2-stage pump too. Dont know what kind of wood you are splitting, but being a "22t" splitter tells me it has a 4" bore cylinder.

On about every piece of hardwood I split, as soon as the wood hits the wedge, it will kick to low.....then as soon as the wood opens up a bit, after the wedge is ~2" into the wood, it will shift back to high speed.

High speed should kick to low when at about ~650 PSI. Thats only about 4-tons of power. Which isnt enough to split most pieces of wood.

IF you have another huskee 22T just like it.......its an easy motor swap. 4-bolts and lining up the lovejoy. Swap motors on your two splitters. See if the problem follows the motor, or stays with the hydraulics.

 

[muddstopper]

Try the sparkplug first. I argued with folks it couldnt be the plug, rebuilt carburators, new filters, finally replace plug and the plug fixed it. Three small engines,, tiller, areovator, gocart and two or three chainsaws, all with similar symptoms as you are describing and a plug fixed every one of them. New Plug cost a dollar and some change, everything else cost a lot more.

 

[Chaz66]

My vote is the 2-stage pump too. Dont know what kind of wood you are splitting, but being a "22t" splitter tells me it has a 4" bore cylinder.

On about every piece of hardwood I split, as soon as the wood hits the wedge, it will kick to low.....then as soon as the wood opens up a bit, after the wedge is ~2" into the wood, it will shift back to high speed.

High speed should kick to low when at about ~650 PSI. Thats only about 4-tons of power. Which isnt enough to split most pieces of wood.

IF you have another huskee 22T just like it.......its an easy motor swap. 4-bolts and lining up the lovejoy. Swap motors on your two splitters. See if the problem follows the motor, or stays with the hydraulics.

Thanks, That was my next plan of action was motor swap.

 

[LD1]

Thanks, That was my next plan of action was motor swap.

I think at this point, thats the best plan of action.

Keep us updated whatever you decide to do.

 

[muddstopper]

May be an engine swap would tell whether its the engine, but what if you do the swap and still have the same problem. And if it is the problem you still have to fix it before mounting back on a splitter. Folks trouble shoot things differently I guess. I would swap the plug out of the good engine into the suspect engine first before doing a complete engine swap. No money spent and a easy swap. Heres the deal, if there is nothing wrong with the engine, then you are still left trouble shooting the hydraulics and remounting a engine to put back on the good machine, which is now motor less. If it turns out to be the hydraulic pump not shifting to low flow/high pressure, you will have to figure that out and then fix or replace it. I think I would buy/borrow a pressure gauge and install it on the machine and see if it is indeed building high pressure and killing the engine. if it is, you could try adjusting the relief down to the point it doesnt kill the engine and see just how much pressure it is building before stalling. Heck the machine is used and someone could have fiddled with the relief thinking they could split tuffer wood. You can buy a new 3000psi gauge for $20 and a tee for $10 and know for sure what your hyd system is doing. If the engine does turn out to be the culprit, you have spent $30 for something you will endup using more than you think now that you own one, and then do what it takes to get the motor running.

 

[TMGT]

I'll have to say my first thought was the 2 stage pump not dropping down.
Pressure gauge is a necessity when diagnosing most hyd problems accurately.

 

[Chaz66]

May be an engine swap would tell whether its the engine, but what if you do the swap and still have the same problem. And if it is the problem you still have to fix it before mounting back on a splitter. Folks trouble shoot things differently I guess. I would swap the plug out of the good engine into the suspect engine first before doing a complete engine swap. No money spent and a easy swap. Heres the deal, if there is nothing wrong with the engine, then you are still left trouble shooting the hydraulics and remounting a engine to put back on the good machine, which is now motor less. If it turns out to be the hydraulic pump not shifting to low flow/high pressure, you will have to figure that out and then fix or replace it. I think I would buy/borrow a pressure gauge and install it on the machine and see if it is indeed building high pressure and killing the engine. if it is, you could try adjusting the relief down to the point it doesnt kill the engine and see just how much pressure it is building before stalling. Heck the machine is used and someone could have fiddled with the relief thinking they could split tuffer wood. You can buy a new 3000psi gauge for $20 and a tee for $10 and know for sure what your hyd system is doing. If the engine does turn out to be the culprit, you have spent $30 for something you will endup using more than you think now that you own one, and then do what it takes to get the motor running.

Thanks for your input. I am going to try the plug before an engine swap. It already has a gauge on it and it is only building about 500lbs or so before stalling. I am concerned that the relief was messed with. I had an issue with my other one in the past where the detent was not functioning and the valve was very sticky in operation and bogging down the power. I took it apart and cleaned it up, and everything was fine.

I will be going back to cabin this weekend to dig into it.

 

[LD1]

Do you know what pump is on it? And what is the motor HP? IF its the 16 gpm pump , 500 sounds about right. IF its the 11 gpm, I think closer to 650-700 before it needs to shift.

In other words, your 2 stage pump Is NOT shifting. Which is an adjustable setting at the pump (not the valve). The correct method of operation should be as follows:
Pump is in high flow-low pressure mode. The splitter should continue to operate in this "fast" mode until ~500 PSI. (Again, this setting is adjustable). At which point it will shift into low flow-high pressure mode, where it will build pressure up to 2500-3000psi range. (this is adjustable at the valve. The main relief).

So the question now is, why is the pump not shifting? 3 probably causes.....

1. It(pump) set a tad too high for the motor HP.....like maybe set at 600 psi and the motor only has the power to produce 500 psi at whatever the high flow rate is (11gpm or 16 gpm??). CAusing it to stall before it can get to the shift point. Easy fix.....turn down the shift point at the pump.

2. Motor not making enough (rated) HP to get to that shift point. Alot of these causes have already been discussed. Bad gas, fouled plug, dirty carb, etc etc.

3. A problem with the actual pump itself. Something wrong physically not allowing it to shift.

It could be a combination of both 1 and 2. The pump could be set boarder line too high, as well as some minor issues with the motor.

A motor swap can tell you which of the 3 is the problem. With the known good motor, if problems follow the motor......thats the issue. If both motors work fine on your other splitter, and neither work on the new splitter.....then its a hydraulic problem. Either bad pump, or shift point set too high. Likely someone messed with something they shouldnt have.

What I can say, based on what you have said thus far, the issue is NOT the valve. The relief in the valve only applies when you are in high pressure - slow speed mode and able to develop 2500+ PSI. You aint getting anywhere near that relief pressure yet.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Subscribed.

 

[Rocky J]

I did not see what engine this came with. If it was a overhead valve engine you might want to check the exhaust valve gap.They have a compression release on the camshaft and adjusted properly the valve is slightly opened when starting and shut all the way once started. If to loose it will pull through jerky and hurt your fingers , make you think of a sheared flywheel key, If to tight it will hold the exhaust valve open slightly after it is running and rob the engine of most of its power, comparing to a bad head gasket. My Husky splitter came with the Honda GC engine and was crap from day one, put a Clone on it for $89 from Harbor Freight at the end of the first year, been fine the last three years.