Loader Valve Problem - Kubota B2620

[GPintheMitten]

I have a LA364 loader. The loader works like it should for up and down of the arms. But it won't dump. But it does curl up.

The problem started after hitting something on the left side with the bucket in dump position while leveling some limestone.

At first it would dump very slowly but curl up quickly. Now it doesn't dump more than about an inch then stops.

It's in the loader valve. When I have the cylinders disconnected the bucket freely moves. No oil flows when joystick is placed in dump position.

So I assume I need to rebuild the loader control valve.

Anyone done this on a B Kubota? Where would I get parts and what is involved?

Thanks.

GP

 

[J_J]

Check your QD's. Reset them.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Already did the QD check.

 

[Winmac]

It's possible the spool is broken in the valve, but I'd expect some real erratic behaviour.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Should I buy a replacement loader control valve or rebuild? What's involved in a rebuild. I've never done it.

 

[J_J]

I have a LA364 loader. The loader works like it should for up and down of the arms. But it won't dump. But it does curl up.

The problem started after hitting something on the left side with the bucket in dump position while leveling some limestone.

At first it would dump very slowly but curl up quickly. Now it doesn't dump more than about an inch then stops.

It's in the loader valve. When I have the cylinders disconnected the bucket freely moves. No oil flows when joystick is placed in dump position.

So I assume I need to rebuild the loader control valve.

Anyone done this on a B Kubota? Where would I get parts and what is involved?

Thanks.

GP

Is your spool actually moving. If it is cable operated, it could be cable related.

Did you remove the workport hoses from the valve.

Did you switch the hoses from the lift to the curl?

Some valves have an 0-ring kit.

Most valves are a precision fit and when they wear, you replace the valve.

 

[GPintheMitten]

No cables. It is a joy stick connected directly to the control valve. I didn't switch the hoses. I'll have to dig into more. The loader valve is hard to see buried under the seat area behind some sheet metal.

I'll take some body parts off and look more closely.

 

[Winmac]

As mentioned the valves can only be resealed to stop external leaks if it is damaged replacement is required.
To check spool remove the end cap opposite lever move lever a check that spool moves on the caped end.

Edit because I hit send accidentally

 

[J_J]

I am looking at a PDF of your valve now.

You can rebuild it, but will be a lot of work and parts. Parts guy says it's probably not worth it.

I don't know how to resend it as it is to large for the TBN limits.

If you call the parts guy at Messnick's, and tell them your tractor model, they will email you the PDF of the valve or any hyd you need. Phone # 877-260-3528

Are those joystick gimbels working correctly.

For instance, is both spools moving in and out of the valve about the same amount.

Thoes valve should be spring centered.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Thanks JJ and WINMAC.

It will most likely be a couple of days before I can check it out completely. The backhoe works and I need to open a trench for a water line for a frost free hydrant.

 

[BAP]

Before you go tearing into your loader valve, have you checked to make sure you didn't bend or damage a piston. I would check there first. The odds of doing something to a piston when hitting something in the dump position are a lot great than damaging the control valve. Could be internal damage to one of the pistons that you can't see without taking it apart. One simple way of checking whether your valve is working right is to swap the loader lift hoses to the dump side of the valve and see if it lifts the loader up and down correctly. If it does, then you know it is not that valve and something in the loader itself. If it doesn't work then look into the valve further.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Before you go tearing into your loader valve, have you checked to make sure you didn't bend or damage a piston. I would check there first. The odds of doing something to a piston when hitting something in the dump position are a lot great than damaging the control valve. Could be internal damage to one of the pistons that you can't see without taking it apart. One simple way of checking whether your valve is working right is to swap the loader lift hoses to the dump side of the valve and see if it lifts the loader up and down correctly. If it does, then you know it is not that valve and something in the loader itself. If it doesn't work then look into the valve further.

Good idea. I could just swap the QD's right?

 

[BAP]

Yes, just swap the QD for the lift to the dump circuit and dump cylinders to the lift circuit.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Yes, just swap the QD for the lift to the dump circuit and dump cylinders to the lift circuit.

Ok thanks. I'll do that tomorrow and report back. A new loader control valve from Kubota is almost $500. No sense doing that if it's really a cylinder.

 

[GPintheMitten]

I'm finally ready to switch the QD's on the loader. switching lift for curl. Anybody know which QD's go to which function? (White, Blue, Red, Yellow)?

Is there a danger of breaking something if I connect the lines wrong?

I googled the color code for the LA364 loader and couldn't find anything. The manual is not straight forward on this.

Thanks.

 

[GPintheMitten]

I figured out the switching of the quick disconnects.

Results are that the bucket did curl up and down while the loader arms would not work correctly.

So does this mean I should replace the loader control valve?

 

[J_J]

The spools themselves, generally do not fail.

The parts on the spool can fail or come loose.

Small bits of rubber, metal or what ever can jam the spool making it inoperative.

You could try and tear the curl spool down and inspect and replace or tighten things and lube good.

If you can't do it, perhaps a hyd shop can inspect it for you.

 

[GPintheMitten]

The spools themselves, generally do not fail.

The parts on the spool can fail or come loose.

Small bits of rubber, metal or what ever can jam the spool making it inoperative.

You could try and tear the curl spool down and inspect and replace or tighten things and lube good.

If you can't do it, perhaps a hyd shop can inspect it for you.

Thanks JJ.

There is a hydraulic shop nearby. If I want them to tear onto it, should I remove it from the tractor or take the whole tractor to them?

 

[J_J]

Do as much work as you can as their labor could be anywhere from $45 to 60 per hour.

They should be able to tear it down , fix it and test it.

You could do this yourself if you had the manual on the loader.

 

[GPintheMitten]

I'll take the loader control valve off first and then decide whether to go further myself.

I have the loader manual user manual but no shop manual for the loader. I do have an exploded view of the valve itself that I got from the Kubota parts site.

Thanks. I'll post back later.