Hello everyone, I am looking for ideas on how to move my loader around on wheels/dollies so I can gain a lot more space back in my shed. I was hoping someone had accomplished this feat and is willing to share their experience.I was hoping someone had bought some car dollies and placed them on the loader to make it portable off of the tractor - any ideas will be appreciated
Loader Storagge and Movement - off tractor!
- Thread starter Nuru
- Start date
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kennyd
Advertiser
Mine stays put when I remove it-sorry I have no brilliant ideas for you.
tungularafishcamp
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2010
- Messages
- 1,210
- Location
- kodiak island, Alaska
- Tractor
- kubota L2800, 1/2 of a L48
Is you overhead strong enough to hoist it up out of the way? Going up is my favorite way of making a small space bigger
Rick
Rick
BethesdaEC
Gold Member
How about something like this.:laughing:
YouTube - Jamiroquai - Virtual Insanity
Actually this is a really cool music video, they built the whole room that you see on casters without a floor and they had dozens of guys moving it around on a sound stage. It is a real interesting optical illusion. Put your garage on casters and move it instead. Sorry, its been a long day.
YouTube - Jamiroquai - Virtual Insanity
Actually this is a really cool music video, they built the whole room that you see on casters without a floor and they had dozens of guys moving it around on a sound stage. It is a real interesting optical illusion. Put your garage on casters and move it instead. Sorry, its been a long day.
Actually the loaders for the 4110, 2320, etc, were light enough to move around, but the 300CX - no way, that thing is very, very heavy off the tractor.
whbrittain
Member
I had an extra set of snowmobile dollies kicking around. I put two under the bucket on the outside edges, and the third one under the parking stand. I lower the bucket onto the dollies with the bottom parallel to the floor. The FEL just rolls forward away from the tractor when I raise the lift lever. After unhooking the hydralic hoses, I just roll the FEL forward far enough to clear the front of the tractor and then roll it to the side. I can swap the 200CX for a snowblower on my 2305 in under 15 minutes.
DrainPondDesign
Gold Member
Nuru,
I will post a photo with dimensions tomorrow, it's already getting too dark to take photos today.
This is the MK-2 version dolly for my 300CX, jsut 3 or 4 2x6 studs, carridge bolts and 4 casters.
Finished the dolly & swapped the loader for the blower that same day, next morning we needed the blower as we had an 8" accumulation of "partly cloudy" in the drive way.
A little preliminary info.
The original 700lb capacity (pricey) swivel casters may no longer be necessary as I now fit temporary wood blocks under the dolly to bear the tractor's weight when unlocking the loader.
Talk to you tomorrow.
I will post a photo with dimensions tomorrow, it's already getting too dark to take photos today.
This is the MK-2 version dolly for my 300CX, jsut 3 or 4 2x6 studs, carridge bolts and 4 casters.
Finished the dolly & swapped the loader for the blower that same day, next morning we needed the blower as we had an 8" accumulation of "partly cloudy" in the drive way.
A little preliminary info.
The original 700lb capacity (pricey) swivel casters may no longer be necessary as I now fit temporary wood blocks under the dolly to bear the tractor's weight when unlocking the loader.
Talk to you tomorrow.
jcalla
Silver Member
Check out item #67338 at Harbor Freight. I bought a couple of them and they work real well for moving things around the shop.
JPC
JPC
DrainPondDesign
Gold Member
Nuru,
Here is the loader pic and dimensions that I promised, if the pic hasn't been attached I'll try again.
The dolly is made of 2x6 (5 1/2 x 1 1/2), the outside dimensions are 5 feet long by 30 inches wide bolted together with 3/8 carriage bolts. (2) 5' stringers, (3) 30" cross members and (2) 4' long temp load supports.
The bucket end cross member is on top at the end of the stringers with a second cross member also on top spaced about 4 inches from the first. A piece of flat steel between them protects the stringer from the bucket edge. This space captures the bucket to keep it from sliding fore or aft.
The third cross member is bolted to the bottom of the stringers to clear the tractors front PTO bearing.
Swivel casters are bolted to each corner.
Two 4 foot long 2x6 are ripped for about 1/4 inch clearance from the ground to the bottom of the stringer. In the pic one of these is in place and one is free in the foreground.
This set up fits under the tractor, rolls easily on clean concrete floors and has no tendency to slip off when I push sideways on it.
The bucket dump angle and parking stand angle keep most of the loader weight off of the hydraulic cylinders and allow one hand connect/disconnect of the hose connectors.
If you use less dump angle you will need to increase the dolly length.
Keep the loader control valve out of regen position so the bucket doesn't flop if you go over center.
Slide the temporary load supports under each stringer as shown and they will support raising the tractor front wheels off the ground to unlock the loader and the parking stand feet which will first land mid dolly. After the parking stand feet have slid close to the casters the blocks can be slid out and saved.
Lot of words for a simple dolly.
Good luck
Here is the loader pic and dimensions that I promised, if the pic hasn't been attached I'll try again.
The dolly is made of 2x6 (5 1/2 x 1 1/2), the outside dimensions are 5 feet long by 30 inches wide bolted together with 3/8 carriage bolts. (2) 5' stringers, (3) 30" cross members and (2) 4' long temp load supports.
The bucket end cross member is on top at the end of the stringers with a second cross member also on top spaced about 4 inches from the first. A piece of flat steel between them protects the stringer from the bucket edge. This space captures the bucket to keep it from sliding fore or aft.
The third cross member is bolted to the bottom of the stringers to clear the tractors front PTO bearing.
Swivel casters are bolted to each corner.
Two 4 foot long 2x6 are ripped for about 1/4 inch clearance from the ground to the bottom of the stringer. In the pic one of these is in place and one is free in the foreground.
This set up fits under the tractor, rolls easily on clean concrete floors and has no tendency to slip off when I push sideways on it.
The bucket dump angle and parking stand angle keep most of the loader weight off of the hydraulic cylinders and allow one hand connect/disconnect of the hose connectors.
If you use less dump angle you will need to increase the dolly length.
Keep the loader control valve out of regen position so the bucket doesn't flop if you go over center.
Slide the temporary load supports under each stringer as shown and they will support raising the tractor front wheels off the ground to unlock the loader and the parking stand feet which will first land mid dolly. After the parking stand feet have slid close to the casters the blocks can be slid out and saved.
Lot of words for a simple dolly.
Good luck
Attachments
Thanks DPD, good info interesting and good design.
