Loader refurbishing worse than when I starte

[/pine]

Here's a clip from the link at the top. I can post a photo of MY valve installation tomorrow.
View attachment 453913

Without knowing more where this valve is installed (i.e., with the 3ph etc...) and the PB setup I can't offer an observation...this could be your problem...but my first thought was...it is easy to cross working port hoses in confined spaces and if you're not familiar with multiple spool valves the labeling can be a bit confusing...never have understood why A1 and A2 don't work one spool and B1 and B2 work the next etc. etc...

 

[skyhook]

I'm by no means an expert on this, but I did read the pdf for your model. Have you tried to loosen the relief vale and adjust it "down"...To adjust relief pressure: First, remove the acorn nut with 1/2 wrench. Next, loosen the 1/2 hex jam nut. Using a
5/32 allen wrench on the relief adjustment screw one full turn clockwise will increase pressure by 200 psi, turning it counterclockwise will bring the relief pressure "down".So turning it down 8 or 9 full turns should drop down the relief pressure. "If" that is the problem, it does sound like the relief is not kicking in or, the hose are installed incorrectly.

 

[woolyAcres]

Without knowing more where this valve is installed (i.e., with the 3ph etc...)

This should be a pretty straight forward install because it's really a stand-alone setup.
pump is mounted to front of engine (via shaft)beneath battery
pressure line goes from pump to loader control valve
return line goes from loader control valve to filter
from filter it goes to tank
suction line goes from tank to the front mounted pump

That's it. No power-beyond, no other remotes, etc. Just a simple, contained system.

I've checked that the A1,B1,A2,B2 go to the correct places, but it's certainly worth checking again. I think they are right because the functions all work. I briefly tested them by moving the joystick just a touch. I'll confirm this later today but my memory is that moving the joystick just a bit (no fully opening the valve) and the function works. However opening it all the way is what causes the pressure to spike.

It's a pretty confined space so it's certainly possible something got connected incorrectly. I'll checking that everything goes where it should before trying it again.

 

[woolyAcres]

I'm by no means an expert on this, but I did read the pdf for your model. Have you tried to loosen the relief vale and adjust it "down"...To adjust relief pressure: First, remove the acorn nut with 1/2 wrench. Next, loosen the 1/2 hex jam nut. Using a
5/32 allen wrench on the relief adjustment screw one full turn clockwise will increase pressure by 200 psi, turning it counterclockwise will bring the relief pressure "down".So turning it down 8 or 9 full turns should drop down the relief pressure. "If" that is the problem, it does sound like the relief is not kicking in or, the hose are installed incorrectly.

I'll try this. Is it possible to unwind the relief too far? I suppose something would come flying out.

 

[LD1]

Before you do anything I would like to see some pictures of how you are setup. And if possible, try to get shots showing where the hoses go to.

I am intimately familiar with this valve after having just installed one of them on a IH 444. Exact same valve actually. With first spool regen and second spool float functions. Some of the literature supplied by surplus center is just plain wrong, confirmed by contacting brand directly.

 

[TomSeller]

I'll try this. Is it possible to unwind the relief too far? I suppose something would come flying out.

It would not hurt to run the relief all the way to the lowest pressure as suggested above until you figure this out. A sketch of how you piped it would help in addition to the pictures.

A1 and B1 go to the same cylinder (Curl). A2 and B2 go to the same cylinder (Boom). Wouldn't hurt to check that. 1s go together and 2s go together. Not As and Bs. Diagram is in the PDF showing which port gets the rod end of the cylinders

http://www.brand-hyd.com/lv/catalog.pdf

 

[woolyAcres]

Here are some photos of my setup and how I intended to plumb it. I tried to stay consistent. RED indicates high pressure lines, green indicates low pressure, suction, or return lines. I need to confirm that all the ports are connected correctly (A1,B1, etc). I've got to move some cows but will check on that as soon as I'm done getting those heifers to the barn.

Thanks in advance for all the input. I really didn't think I was taking on too big a project. In my head, this isn't a very complicated system. I've either made a simple mistake, or underestimated the difficulty and overestimated my understanding- wouldn't be the first or last time


I can't seem to upload any files right now so I'll have to try again later.

 

[woolyAcres]

Maybe this dropbox link will work:

 

[woolyAcres]

I confirmed the lines are connected correctly and in fact, after adjusting the pressure relief valve (down to 1000psi) things seem to be going better. I think maybe the relief valve was stuck. I plan to adjust it back upward to 2000psi but I've still got a problem to solve. It seems the system is really sucking air from somewhere. After running for about 3 minutes the tank overflowed because of all the air it had drawn in.

What's the best way to identify a suction leak?

Secondly, what symptoms should one expect from a system where the pump is too large for the valve? To this day I've not been able to find any markings on the pump to identify it so I don't know what volume it is. The valve should handle up to 10GPM. The tank is about 4 gallons so I expected the pump to be close to that. However, I think I'm assuming too much about the previous owner.

 

[LD1]

Valve too small for pump would cause a wine and overheating.

Suction.leak...did you have one before. Or are you still trying to expel the air out of the system?