mitchash
Gold Member
I found a couple of loaders that might fit my 254 (there off Case and Cub Cadet). I would need to build mounts to the tractor. Anyone have measurements and pictures of there loaders? Thanks
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
Call Coldwater tractors, they will sell you a loader for under $ 2,000.00 with all the brackets
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
" Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
" Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Should fit just fine. In some cases there are absolutely no differences whatsoever between a 254 and a 284. During that period it was just a marketing thing.
//greg//
//greg//
erj
Gold Member
In my opinion, you can trust Coldwater if they tell you they will send you a FEL that will fit a 254.
RonJ
RonJ
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 16,331
- Location
- Daleville, IN
- Tractor
- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
Just make sure you know what type of steering you have. Jinma made side mounted cylinders that ran along the left side of the engine block early on then switched to front mounted cylinders that are along the front axle. The loader mounts will be different.
Chris
Chris
Anyone have a picture of there loader on there 254? I would like to see how they are mounted. I really want to get the Coldwater loader, they seem to be a good loader for the money. I won't be doing any real heavy work with it, I have a skid steer for that, just snow removal, firewood and loose matrial.
RonMar
Elite Member
I can put some up later. I have the coldwater loader on my tractor, and it works well...
Here are some pics from my photobucket account.
Here is one after I built my fork bucket and grapple.
This one shows the strut that runs from the loader tower down to the front of the frame.
This one shows the bucket cylinder attach point.
This is of the loader tower crossbar. The large heavy plate above the pin I am removing runs up and bolts in place of the 4 bolt sideplate cover that allows access to the clutch area. You can also see that there is a second attach point that goes forward to attach to the tractor forward frame alongside the engine.
I got my tractor from Coldwater, back when he used to import. It came with the loader, and I have been using it for many years now without any issue. He is down the coast a little ways from me, so I went to look at the tractors with loaders attached. The loader was what sold me on the deal, as it was simple, and very near what I would have built myself, and made for a finished price well under the nearest comparable tractor. The only thing it didn't have was float on the first spool of the control valve(VERY usefull function to smooth ground). When I built the grapple, I replaced the 2 spool prince valve that came on the loader, and put in a 3 spool prince valve(same 5000 series valve) with float on the first spool. If you order one, he can probably set it up with a valve with float. All the hoses fittings and cylinders are all US standard, so any hydraulic shop or wharehouse will have replacement parts for it. I don't have a picture of it, but the loader valve is bolted to a plate that plugs into a tube on the back side of the right loader tower. It is held in place with 2 bolts, kind of like a trailer hitch receiver. Because of this it is really easy to unmount the loader arms and bucket if you should have need. You fully dump the bucket, and lower it to the ground. you pull the top pins and take the valve out of it's mounting bracket. Then you lift/extend teh loader cylinders and the arms lift away from the tower, untill the open mouth of the bucket is on the ground, then you can disconnect the loader cylinder pins at teh towers. The bucket with loader arms will set by itself like this. So all you do is shutdown the engine, reconfigure the quick connect fittings and set teh valve with the loader, and back the tractor away. Sorry I don't have a pic of this, I have only had to take the loader off once in all these years.
A few years after I got the tractor I went back to them looking for a BH. Since they made the loader, they also made a different lower assembly for the loader that accomidates a BH subframe(seen in that last pic). I unbolted my original loader crossbar, and bolted in the new one and then I could attach the loader. They didn't even charge me for that part... If you think you might want a BH in the future, you could probably get the subframe plates.
It does only have a single bucket curl cylinder, but I have had no problem with that configuration. The one thing that people often overlook with the use of a single bucket cylinder, is that the bucket back and top support need to be stronger to accomidate it. The bucket top is a piece of thick wall box tube, and makes the bucket structure very rigid. i figured if I ever had an issue, i could convert it to a double cylinder setup with little effort. The bucket is also very well sized for this size tractor. It can carry a substantial load without overloading the tractor front end too bad...
Good luck
Here are some pics from my photobucket account.
Here is one after I built my fork bucket and grapple.
This one shows the strut that runs from the loader tower down to the front of the frame.
This one shows the bucket cylinder attach point.
This is of the loader tower crossbar. The large heavy plate above the pin I am removing runs up and bolts in place of the 4 bolt sideplate cover that allows access to the clutch area. You can also see that there is a second attach point that goes forward to attach to the tractor forward frame alongside the engine.
I got my tractor from Coldwater, back when he used to import. It came with the loader, and I have been using it for many years now without any issue. He is down the coast a little ways from me, so I went to look at the tractors with loaders attached. The loader was what sold me on the deal, as it was simple, and very near what I would have built myself, and made for a finished price well under the nearest comparable tractor. The only thing it didn't have was float on the first spool of the control valve(VERY usefull function to smooth ground). When I built the grapple, I replaced the 2 spool prince valve that came on the loader, and put in a 3 spool prince valve(same 5000 series valve) with float on the first spool. If you order one, he can probably set it up with a valve with float. All the hoses fittings and cylinders are all US standard, so any hydraulic shop or wharehouse will have replacement parts for it. I don't have a picture of it, but the loader valve is bolted to a plate that plugs into a tube on the back side of the right loader tower. It is held in place with 2 bolts, kind of like a trailer hitch receiver. Because of this it is really easy to unmount the loader arms and bucket if you should have need. You fully dump the bucket, and lower it to the ground. you pull the top pins and take the valve out of it's mounting bracket. Then you lift/extend teh loader cylinders and the arms lift away from the tower, untill the open mouth of the bucket is on the ground, then you can disconnect the loader cylinder pins at teh towers. The bucket with loader arms will set by itself like this. So all you do is shutdown the engine, reconfigure the quick connect fittings and set teh valve with the loader, and back the tractor away. Sorry I don't have a pic of this, I have only had to take the loader off once in all these years.
A few years after I got the tractor I went back to them looking for a BH. Since they made the loader, they also made a different lower assembly for the loader that accomidates a BH subframe(seen in that last pic). I unbolted my original loader crossbar, and bolted in the new one and then I could attach the loader. They didn't even charge me for that part... If you think you might want a BH in the future, you could probably get the subframe plates.
It does only have a single bucket curl cylinder, but I have had no problem with that configuration. The one thing that people often overlook with the use of a single bucket cylinder, is that the bucket back and top support need to be stronger to accomidate it. The bucket top is a piece of thick wall box tube, and makes the bucket structure very rigid. i figured if I ever had an issue, i could convert it to a double cylinder setup with little effort. The bucket is also very well sized for this size tractor. It can carry a substantial load without overloading the tractor front end too bad...
Good luck
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RonMar
Elite Member
I did have a picture of the valve mount. This picture is of the 3 spool valve I added for the grapple, but the mounting scheme on the loader made that addition really easy. It also makes it easy to change the location of the valve if you should desire. when I added the 3 spool, I rotated the valve a little more, and lengthened the pipe a little to move the valve a little closer to me so I didn't have to really stretch to reach that third spool. i do appreciate a good simple design...
RonMar
Elite Member
No it is not stock. No modifications are required to the tractor to bolt on the loader...
Those pictures were actually from the exhaust modifications I did to it, but they showed the loader details pretty well. It too originally went straight up. I got tired of bending it on trees, so I modified it down to the front to keep this from happening while busting brush.
Here was the original post about the exhaust if you are interested.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/119242-need-lower-my-up-pipe.html
RonMar
Elite Member
Looks prettymuch like mine.
You could E-mail those pics to coldwater, and Henry(probably who you will be talking to, nice guy) can tell you for sure...
I'm still looking into getting a loader for my Jinma 254. I measured the mounting holes and sent the specs to Coldwater, they said they were different than the 284 that they had built one for. I would like to confirm I measured right. Can anyone send pictures and measurements of there Jinmas with loaders? I can still get a Coldwater loader kit that I would have to finish welding. Which is no problem, but if I don't have to do the extra work that would be even better.
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Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Human nature being what it is, you are more than likely to get more accurate and valid responses if you make it easy for the other person. May I suggest: Post pictures of where you took your measurements and what they were. That way other people can instantly mentally compare their unit to yours and respond accordingly. I'm sure if you do some of the work other members will meet you more than half way. :thumbsup:
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
You have the LE type tractor with the recessed battery box, this is the new style and should be the same as the current tractors coldwater imports.Did you send him pic's of your tractor ?
I'm not sure what you measured,but there are 2-types Old style with clamshell hood, and the new LE type with the flip up hood.The rear brackets are the same on both ,the front brackets are a little different on the 2-models
Tommy
Affrdable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
www.affordabletractorsalesco.co
I'm not sure what you measured,but there are 2-types Old style with clamshell hood, and the new LE type with the flip up hood.The rear brackets are the same on both ,the front brackets are a little different on the 2-models
Tommy
Affrdable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
www.affordabletractorsalesco.co
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
Tell Coldwater the same thing they should know which brackets to send you
Tommy
Affrdable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
www.affordabletractorsalesco.co
Tommy
Affrdable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
www.affordabletractorsalesco.co
