Hopped on the tractor this morning and went to raise the bucket and noticed the throw was very short. Not sure what happened, but seemingly overnight the stick is back about 1/2 way to the end of the lift, so I can only lift very slowly. Any ideas?
Loader control not centering
- Thread starter beardley
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mslisaj
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I had a similar "failure" with the backhoe on my MT125. Take the boot off of the control and you'll find under careful inspection some loose bolts I'm sure. I had a similar failure with one of the controls on my backhoe and at first I looked at it I was sure it was a valve failure. But it turned out the bolts that bolt the lever to the valve just came loose. Simple fix. Check it out and let us know.
Wagtail
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Agree with mslisaj. Vibration, especially from the diesel engine, will work all sorts of things loose over time.
Gary Fowler
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Agree. Had the same thing happen to me. Be careful when you remove the boot so as not to let the nuts and bolts fall. Best to do this over a concrete surface rather than grass. I am sure you can find a YouTube video of this fix if you google it( there is a youtube video for just about everything).
papachaz
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if you don't have a concrete surface, spread a tarp under the tractor. might be better in grass with a tarp so they won't bounce and roll like they would on concrete
or at least for ME they would :laughing:
/pine
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If there is nothing that is obvious under the boot...remove the caps on the bottom of the spools and check the nut/screw that secures the spool/spring...it is not uncommon for them to work loose and this will cause the lever to not return to center...
Wagtail
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It looks like that screwed-down guide plate has shifted forward.
Unless that plate is the 'lock' that you're referring to.
Nothing obvious that I see. You're talking to a novice when it comes to hydraulics. Can you explain where I should be looking?
yep, that plate is the locking mechanism. It slides into the slots to prevent the stick from moving. I moved the stick forward to get it to lock.
/pine
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on the very bottom of the valve there will be a cup/cap that covers the ends of the spools...they are usually held in place by two screws (usually require an Allen wrench)...
sometimes moisture will accumulate in these caps...general maintenance is to inspect the caps every 6 months or so...some come with weep holes some drill their own weep holes...
Gary Fowler
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That one looks much different from the one that I had so I am not sure what to tell you now.
/pine
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# 2 the "caps" are on the right hand side of the valve in the picture
Had to dodge the rain yesterday, so I finally got out there today to pull the cap, and below is what it looks like when I have the stick in its normal neutral position. There is about 3/8" gap between the wall and the spring, and I don't see any sort of adjustments.
Also, I've been pretty happy with the tractor overall, but mad does LS put stuff in stupid placed. No room to turn a wrench in there. Took about 30 min to loosen 2 screws. . .
/pine
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Is there a slot (for screwdriver) in the end of the stem extending out past the spring? is the stem loose?
/pine
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You should check both the spools...not 100% sure but I think the spring should be tight up against the valve body...if the spring assembly and the stem move (turn) see if it will tighten up.
So the other spool the spring is tight against the body. I tried turning the shaft on the issue shaft, and it just turns right back to the original position. The only thing I can think here is the cable somehow slipped. Its strange though that it seemed to slip exactly to the float detent. So if I move the stick to the original "neutral" moving forward engages float. . .
/pine
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Does the joystick move freely until the spring hits the valve body?
Does the other spool stem spin? or is it tight?
Does the other spool stem spin? or is it tight?
