So I have a 1425 I bought about 30 years ago new. I have a bucket, brush hog, finish mower and a rototiller. I installed a new Kholer 25 hp last summer. Its been great with the new motor except for a bunch of cylinder leaks that developed after the new motor was installed which I assumed showed up because of the extra power from a new motor. Anyway I rebuilt all the cylinders and tractor has been fine.
Yesterday I was brush hogging . I finished about 3 acres when a stick must have come up and knocked the pin out that connects the brush hog to the tractor just below the male and female hose connections. The tiller pushed up against the female connector (coming off the hose on the brush hog) and knocked it loose from the male end attached to the manual PTO.
So no problem I carry spare pins. I put a new pin in and reconnected hose to brush hog and now the blade spins slowly. Since i had a small leak around the control handle of the manual pto block I pulled that and inspected all the fittings. I picked up to fresh O rings at John Deere and reassembled pto block. I put a new hydraulic filter on. After installing everything back together, my leak was gone but I still only had slow rpms on the brush hog blades. I guessed then my problem was either the pto pump not producing enough pressure or the motor on the brush hog. So I connected my finish mower which I hadnt used in 20 years and I had full rpms on the finish mower. So that eliminated the pto pump from the equation and narrowed it down to a problem with the motor on the brush hog or the two hoses.
Im hesitant to pull the motor off the brush hog because the problem started instantly when the hose coupling got knocked apart. Up to that point it was working perfectly. I was going to wait till PT reopens to pick their brains but I figured I would ask here. Is it possible since it was running wide open when the hose got knocked off that there is internal damage inside one of the two hoses I cant see? The second hose stayed attached when the one got knocked off. Id hate to open a can of worms by pulling off the brush hog motor, since it was working perfectly before the sudden disconnection.
And finally if I do decide to pull the brush hog motor can I simply pull the cap and access any rebuild-able components while leaving the bottom section attached to the mower or do I need to remove the blades and pull the entire motor?
Yesterday I was brush hogging . I finished about 3 acres when a stick must have come up and knocked the pin out that connects the brush hog to the tractor just below the male and female hose connections. The tiller pushed up against the female connector (coming off the hose on the brush hog) and knocked it loose from the male end attached to the manual PTO.
So no problem I carry spare pins. I put a new pin in and reconnected hose to brush hog and now the blade spins slowly. Since i had a small leak around the control handle of the manual pto block I pulled that and inspected all the fittings. I picked up to fresh O rings at John Deere and reassembled pto block. I put a new hydraulic filter on. After installing everything back together, my leak was gone but I still only had slow rpms on the brush hog blades. I guessed then my problem was either the pto pump not producing enough pressure or the motor on the brush hog. So I connected my finish mower which I hadnt used in 20 years and I had full rpms on the finish mower. So that eliminated the pto pump from the equation and narrowed it down to a problem with the motor on the brush hog or the two hoses.
Im hesitant to pull the motor off the brush hog because the problem started instantly when the hose coupling got knocked apart. Up to that point it was working perfectly. I was going to wait till PT reopens to pick their brains but I figured I would ask here. Is it possible since it was running wide open when the hose got knocked off that there is internal damage inside one of the two hoses I cant see? The second hose stayed attached when the one got knocked off. Id hate to open a can of worms by pulling off the brush hog motor, since it was working perfectly before the sudden disconnection.
And finally if I do decide to pull the brush hog motor can I simply pull the cap and access any rebuild-able components while leaving the bottom section attached to the mower or do I need to remove the blades and pull the entire motor?
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