Lifting Heavy cement blocks

[PaPaGus]

Looking into using some 6' x 2' x 2' blocks for a retaining wall, and I am told they weigh around 3400 lbs each. My question is, if I do this and need to rent some equipment What would be best thing to use?
I would get the area ready with my tractor, than rent something or if needed hire someone to move them in place.

 

[Duffster]

A large skidloader will work, otherwise a fullsize TLB.

My JD 250 skidloader will do it but that is not want I would rent if I was to rent a machine, I would rent a large frame skidloader.

 

[o2batsea]

Yeah, I'd call someone who has a full sized excavator. This sounds like a project best left to someone who knows what they are doing.

 

[CurlyDave]

I tried moving blocks of that size with my JD 110 TLB and couldn't budge them. I figured them as 24 cubic feet each at 150 lbs/cubic foot for concrete or 3600 lbs.

If they are stacked more than 2 high, they must be canted back into the earth behind the retaining wall or the wall will fall over in a heavy rainstorm. I know because that is exactly what happened to my neighbor, and is why I was trying to move them.

Alternatively, you could step them back, which is what my neighbor did.

Place one row, fill behind with drain rock, place the second row half on the first row, half on the drain rock, etc.

 

[tulenutn2o]

Looking into using some 6' x 2' x 2' blocks for a retaining wall, and I am told they weigh around 3400 lbs each. My question is, if I do this and need to rent some equipment What would be best thing to use?
I would get the area ready with my tractor, than rent something or if needed hire someone to move them in place.

LULL or Gehl telscoping material lift

 

[Duffster]

I tried moving blocks of that size with my JD 110 TLB and couldn't budge them. I figured them as 24 cubic feet each at 150 lbs/cubic foot for concrete or 3600 lbs.

If they are stacked more than 2 high, they must be canted back into the earth behind the retaining wall or the wall will fall over in a heavy rainstorm. I know because that is exactly what happened to my neighbor, and is why I was trying to move them.

Alternatively, you could step them back, which is what my neighbor did.

Place one row, fill behind with drain rock, place the second row half on the first row, half on the drain rock, etc.

That may be tough to do since every one I have seen has a v shaped grove to aid in stacking. To do what you mention would require leaning the wall back.

 

[CurlyDave]

You are right about the v-grooves.

It is not a particularly good design for use as a retaining wall.

If you can cant (tilt) the wall back into the retained earth, the appearance will be better since you can use the grooves. If you are unwilling to cant the wall, then stepping it back is a fair alternative. If your wall is less than 2 blocks high you can make it vertical. If you wall is higher than 2 blocks you can lay the first two courses vertical, fill behind them and make a bench ~5' wide back into the retained earth and lay another course two blocks high.

I bought my property just after my neighbor's wall (4 or 5 blocks high) had fallen down for the first time. I tried to help him out by calculating how much to cant his wall when he re-stacked it, but the guy he hired to do the restacking didn't want to build a leaning wall, so he did it vertical again.

It fell down again the next winter. This time the guy with the big machine still wouldn't lean the wall back, but he did step it back and it holds now. Doesn't look so good, but it holds.

Engineering is a *****.

 

[Duffster]

You are right about the v-grooves.

It is not a particularly good design for use as a retaining wall.

If you can cant (tilt) the wall back into the retained earth, the appearance will be better since you can use the grooves. If you are unwilling to cant the wall, then stepping it back is a fair alternative. If your wall is less than 2 blocks high you can make it vertical. If you wall is higher than 2 blocks you can lay the first two courses vertical, fill behind them and make a bench ~5' wide back into the retained earth and lay another course two blocks high.

I bought my property just after my neighbor's wall (4 or 5 blocks high) had fallen down for the first time. I tried to help him out by calculating how much to cant his wall when he re-stacked it, but the guy he hired to do the restacking didn't want to build a leaning wall, so he did it vertical again.

It fell down again the next winter. This time the guy with the big machine still wouldn't lean the wall back, but he did step it back and it holds now. Doesn't look so good, but it holds.

Engineering is a *****.

I have built several walls three blocks high without leaning the wall back and none have failed, that I know of. But they do have a substantial concrete footing under them.

 

[CurlyDave]

That is another way to do it. Usually the blocks are used because one is unwilling to pour a good footer.

The blocks are usually made by concrete suppliers from "leftover" concrete returned in their trucks.

In the case of the wall I am familiar with, the "footer" was a course of blocks buried in the earth. I didn't count that in the overall height.

 

[IslandTractor]

Just for perspective, this is what a DK40se/KL401 can lift. I'd estimate it was six feet by two feet by one foot so about half of the weight that you are looking to lift. I did not try to lift it higher mostly because I did not have adequate ballast but the loader had no difficulty getting it up. It was uncomfortable moving this Jersey barrier type load even 200feet across an uneven field with just a 600lb flail mower for ballast. I kept it real low and real slow.

I'd think that a big skid steer would be the tool of choice for the concrete blocks you are describing.