Lift arms

[J_J]

I hope you were careful to not penetrate to far with your weld bead.

I had to replace mine on my 1445 because of binding or rusting together. It was easy to grind out the old welds, and cut the 2 in pin on either side.

Here is a picture of the old pin and roll over sleeve.

 

[J_J]

Here is a picture of the new pin and sleeve.

 

[stray]

""I hope you were careful to not penetrate to far with your weld bead.""
Thanks JJ for the info and the pics. and 14 as well. Good pics both of you.
I was concerned about binding the rod and kept working the pivot each time I made a weld. As said we will just see how long it holds. I may weld a few short pieces in place for structure. If it needs to be done I will cut it out and rebuild the whole thing.

 

[stray]

Thanks PJ. Good pics of what looks to be a fairly common problem.
Mine wasn't that bad or I would have had to redo the whole thing. I guess I was lucky when I saw the grease squirting out the break.

 

[pajoube]

When curling the bucket tap the reverse peddle at the same time. This combination will give you the best action.
PJ

 

[pajoube]

The new mini hoes have the heavier center pins so I don't think they will have any problems.
One can put tremendous pressure on the pivot pin if the operator is unfamiliar. Curling the bucket at the same time as applying reverse will give you the best results. Applying pressure on the lift arms (downward) at the time of bucket curling will put the most pressure on the pivot pin, at least from my experience.
If you find a crack and get it welded right away you probably should be ok.
PJ