Grading leveling rear blade

[jam2004]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You mean the blade was level until you spun it, or it was just more noticeable because it dug in?
It seems to me that it would be off either way whether it was in the blade itself or in the lower arms.

Jam, I just picked up a new Woods blade that had a twist in it that I exchanged. If it's a new blade I would turn it back in if that's where the problem lies. Unless you have TNT, it's going to be a pain in the butt to adjust the one lower arm every time you spin the blade or switch implements, one being the blade. If you have a pin that allows the blade to spin side to side, taking it out will allow the blade to "self level" and follow the contour or crown of your drive better. This may work for you. )</font>

I used a bubble level and it seemd to work fine. Granted, I only need to push back two or three more rows of snow. I'll have to keep my eye on it in the future and I will also pay attention to the pivot point as well.

 

[jfdlaw]

Brant,

<font color="blue"> "If your blade has a tilt feature, just take the pin out and let it tilt freely. This will allow the blade to follow the ground and one side will not dig in." </font>

Good thought. I'm sitting here feeling like an idiot for not figuring that out myself. I'm going to go put the blade back on the tractor.

 

[Freds]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If your blade has a tilt feature, just take the pin out and let it tilt freely. This will allow the blade to follow the ground )</font>

What a great idea! Why didn't I think of that?

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