Grading leveling rear blade

[jam2004]

Just snow plowed most of the driveway with my rear blade. It worked well until I tried to spin it to push snow directly back and noticed the blade is not level. The right point dug into the driveway while the left point was an inch or two in the air. How do I correct this?

 

[Bob_Skurka]

IF YOU HAVE A SMALL TRACTOR: You should have a turnbuckle on one of your lower link arms, by adjusting (spinning) the turnbuckle, you will be able to raise or lower the lower link arm on that side of the tractor. The other lower link arm will not be adjustable. By playing around with the adjustable side, you should be able to level your blade.

IF YOU HAVE A LARGER TRACTOR: Many of the tractors from 30hp on up have a small hand crank adjustment instead of a simple turnbuckle. It follows the same principle, one side of the tractor 3pt is adjustable, the other side is typically fixed. Adjust the one side so it is level with the other side and the implement will be level.

 

[jam2004]

Bob- I have a BX 2230. I'm not sure if I have to adjust the turnbuckle that is verticle or one of the two that are sort of parallel with the ground. The first one is closer to the seat, the other two are closer to the ground.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

The two that are parallel to the ground control the spread of the lower arms, you can use those to keep the implement from swaying too far either way and to keep the implement offset a bit to one side if you desire that.

The one that is vertical contols the tilt that I described above and will control the tilt.

 

[jam2004]

Thanks a bunch, Bob.

 

[Henro]

If you want the rear blade to be "level" at any angle, you have to set it up so that the axis of the pivot point is vertical to the surface the tractor is sitting on.

For example, say you set the blade level, when is is not angled, but have the top link short so the pivot axis is tilted forward at the top. When you angle the blade the end closest to the tractor will end up lower than the other end. If you extend the top link, you can cause the blade to become level again when it is angled. In theory, if you leveled the blade when it was square to the back of the tractor by adjusting the tilt, and then angled the blade and again leveled it by adjusting the top link, I am pretty sure you would end up with the pivot point axis being vertical.

So what I do, is just try to set things up so that the axis of the pivot is vertical as possible to begin with, by adjusting both top and tilt functions at the same time, and just looking at the pivot point.

With a small tractor like the BX, you may not have enough adjustment available to do this though. Then I think all you can do is set the angle of the blade where you want it and make adjustments to level it at that angle, and level it again the next time you change angle, and each time thereafter.

This is my limited experience anyway. Hope my words make some sense... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Knight9]

Interesting post. I have this same issue with my 5' blade on my B2410. Everything looks vertically plumb, blade is flat on the ground. I spin the blade around to plow with it the other way, and it is out of level. It is quite a pain to re-adjust every time. Guess it is the ultimate excuse for the second T of TnT eh? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Kevin

 

[shoppintractors]

I've used a bubble level to 'true-up' the rear blade. First I lay the level on the horizontal frame work of the three point blade. I always used the frame work verses the blade because there was some 'play' in the blade itself. Pointing the level from front to rear, adjust the top link to bring the bubble 'level'. Then turn the level 90 degree's so it's inline with the blade. Adjust your side link to bring the bubble 'level'.

This is all predecated on the tractor being parked on a level surface and the tires being properly inflated.

Don

 

[Freds]

You mean the blade was level until you spun it, or it was just more noticeable because it dug in?
It seems to me that it would be off either way whether it was in the blade itself or in the lower arms.

Jam, I just picked up a new Woods blade that had a twist in it that I exchanged. If it's a new blade I would turn it back in if that's where the problem lies. Unless you have TNT, it's going to be a pain in the butt to adjust the one lower arm every time you spin the blade or switch implements, one being the blade. If you have a pin that allows the blade to spin side to side, taking it out will allow the blade to "self level" and follow the contour or crown of your drive better. This may work for you.

 

[bher]

If your blade has a tilt feature, just take the pin out and let it tilt freely. This will allow the blade to follow the ground and one side will not dig in. I always do this when I plow snow. It works much better and is easier on the asphalt. I have skid shoes on my blade and this helps too.