Leveling Bumpy Field

[Mkelcy]

I live on 10 acres of retired wheat farm in eastern Washington. Over the past 20+ years of lying fallow, the elements and burrowing wildlife have turned the field into a pretty decent mogul ski run, to the extent that I can only go about 1-2 mph across the field without almost getting thrown off the tractor. I'm thinking that plowing the field with a disc or rototiller might address my issue. My brief research has indicated that a disc needs some speed to be effective, while the rototiller doesn't, so I'm thinking rototiller. I'm not looking to plant (other than maybe native species) so this is purely about trying the make the field less bumpy for mowing. Thoughts?

 

[oldnslo]

Do you want to remove all the current growth and then reseed or just level the high spots?

If just leveling high spots you might get by with a land plane or box blade and some time depending on current plant growth.

 

[Mkelcy]

Do you want to remove all the current growth and then reseed or just level the high spots?

If just leveling high spots you might get by with a land plane or box blade and some time depending on current plant growth.

Mostly get rid of the high spots. I've got a land plane and could try that. I assume I should mow as close as I can, then hit it with the plane?

 

[oldnslo]

Mostly get rid of the high spots. I've got a land plane and could try that. I assume I should mow as close as I can, then hit it with the plane?

Yes mow first and try to use what you have would be my first attempt

 

[Mike1955]

I would prefer a disk. Go front to back, then side to side ever how manny times it takes. If you got chisel plow it would help to do that first. I am not fond of a tiller for that purpose. Good luck sir

 

[Mkelcy]

Thanks. I'll give it a try with the plane. If that doesn't work, I'll rent a disk to test if it does the job. I have a plane, I don't have either a disk or rototiller. I'd like the disk to work, they're a lot cheaper than rototillers.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Just have in mind that with any size disk that your 3320 will be able to pull, it most likely is going to take many many times over the ground. With a tiller, once, maybe twice.

 

[Mkelcy]

Just have in mind that with any size disk that your 3320 will be able to pull, it most likely is going to take many many times over the ground. With a tiller, once, maybe twice.

Good point.

 

[jaxs]

My choice would be land plane if soil is easy to disturb or box blade with rippers if soil is hard clay.

 

[bigtiller]

I have a tiller so that is what I would use. First, mow the grass very short then set the depth adjustment so the tines dig in about 1". Then make several passes at varying angles.

Clumps of sod won't be a problem with a tiller, it will just spit them out.

 

[drssg]

Our place was also kind of rough when we bought it. I went over it a couple of times with a rototiller. Then I went over it a couple of times with a chain harrow to level out the loose soil better. Then I reseeded it. That worked pretty well for me.

 

[LarJea]

I have been using Everything Attachments back blade with their gage wheel kit to straighten out my bumpy gravel road, it works excellent especially considering it was the first time I have ever used a back blade. All I had to do was set the angled blade down and tension the gage wheel turnbuckles to however aggressive the cut and go. I think it would be even easier on a dirt field.

 

[RjCorazza]

I have been using Everything Attachments back blade with their gage wheel kit to straighten out my bumpy gravel road, it works excellent especially considering it was the first time I have ever used a back blade. All I had to do was set the angled blade down and tension the gage wheel turnbuckles to however aggressive the cut and go. I think it would be even easier on a dirt field.

Gauge wheels do make gravel and dirt work easier. I used a rake on my gravel driveway, and adding gauge wheels made it a two pass job.

 

[M59]

I live on 10 acres of retired wheat farm in eastern Washington. Over the past 20+ years of lying fallow, the elements and burrowing wildlife have turned the field into a pretty decent mogul ski run.

Mkelcy,

Have a look into Harley rake, aka power rake, as they are purpose built for leveling earth. They come in both 3PH with a set of guage wheels and the less desirable SSQA run on a track loader. The power rake, with its spinning drum breaks up the high spots and the wings keep the material captured until you pass over a low spot, much like a box blade but far easier to use since box blade uses a cutting blade and weight to shear the high spots off.

I have both a box blade and power rake and would only use the power rake for leveling your 10 acres.

 

[BackRoad]

+1 on the 3pt Harley Rake. Found it on Marketplace, but it took a while before a usable one showed up. Before and after pics.

 

[M59]

BackRoad, nice job and probably pretty quick with the 8 foot rake.

Here is pic of my rake just after receipt. I wonder how the two rakes compare given different soil types and buried debris ( rocks, roots, etc)? Your drum has bars whereas mine has carbide tipped studs.

 

[BackRoad]

You've got a much newer version! Very nice!

If my understanding is correct, Paladin bought the the Harley Rake line from Glenmac about 2005 and mine is a Glenmac built, yours is newer and updated, made by Paladin.

Only mentioning this, as I've seen older Glenmac built units for sale which need a bit of TLC.

For mine, I had to replace a critical bearing assembly holding one end of the bottom roller. Even though they didn't build the original rake, Paladin was able to machine the new replacement part in about a week which bolted right up (but the part was not cheap!)

 

[M59]

You've got a much newer version! Very nice!

Thanks for the background info.

If you have the opportunity, invest in a top n tilt package for your 3PH implements. Anytime you are working on landscape, driveway, etc that is anything other than dead flat the ability to change the approach angle of power rake or box blade or any other implement with levers, at your hand, instead of getting off machine and cranking on the 3PH attachment links will make you 10X more productive. The top n tilt gives me 6 degrees of freedom with 3PH implements.

 

[BackRoad]

Agree, got mine from Brian at Fit Rite.

The added Rear Remotes and the TnT easily get my vote for the most beneficial mod on the tractor!

 

[oosik]

First - mow the field. Then use the implements you have - see how they work. If more is needed - I would recommend a rototiller.