leveling and curing wood for table top

   / leveling and curing wood for table top #1  

fcoats

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2012
Messages
26
Location
Grenada, MS
Tractor
Kubota 6800
About a week ago we had a storm and an old oak tree about 5 feet in diameter blew over. I thought a slab would make a good table top for an outside picnic area if sealed to keep in from rotting. I got the tree removal service to cut two slices about 8 to 12 inches thick for me. His chain saw blade was only 42 inches long, and he had to cut from both sides. The cuts don't match exactly, and left a ledge about 2" thick and more on each side.
Any suggestions on how to level out the cuts to get a relatively smooth surface and 2) what can I do to prevent the slab from splitting?

Thanks,
 
   / leveling and curing wood for table top #2  
Couple of thoughts from someone who has done this once or twice but it by no means and expert, or is even qualified as being moderately successful at their own attempts. First expect that your slab will develop some warp, twist, and likely some checking/splitting as it dries. This the nature of the beast, the amount is dependent on a lot of factors including cut, species, thickness of slab and environmental factors as it dries.

To minimize end grain splitting I would recommend coating the ends of the slab with something to slow and control water loss from those surfaces. Latex paint is a cheap solution, paraffin wax is another, and anchor seal is a purpose made product you can use. If you have the ability storing your slab some place level and out of the elements would be best. An insulated garage, climate controlled basement, etc. would be ideal. What you are trying to do is provide a relatively constant environment within which the slab's moisture constant can reach a stable equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Drastic fluctuations in temperature and humidity are not conducive to this. This will likely take a while. I had a 2.5" eucalyptus slab that took at least a year to fully dry.

I would also recommend storing you slab so that it is elevated off the ground so that air can circulate across both surfaces. Setting on a pair of saw horses, or even couple of stickers so that it isn't resting on the dirt or a concrete slab will accomplish this purpose.

As for getting smooth surfaces....wait until your slab has dried! I know its tempting to level out that slab now, but you're going to have re-plane it once it has dried so you might as well wait and do it once and not remove more wood than necessary. As for planing it you might be able to find a local mill to do it for you, or if you have access to a router you can make a large sled and do it yourself. When I planed mine down I screwed a couple of 8' long section of 3" PVC pipe to my work table and mounted my router to a plywood sled and did a rough planing in that matter. It worked surprisingly well. Google router planer and the images that come up will give you a pretty good idea. In any case good luck, hopefully someone more experienced than I will be along shortly and give you more detailed advice.
 
   / leveling and curing wood for table top #3  
Congrats on getting some huge slabs! I have a portable planer that I use.
 
   / leveling and curing wood for table top #4  
Panik I agree with your methods and I would have said much similar, I would sugest besides getting up off the ground sticker it again and put some type of cover over it, so sun does not dry top faster than bottom,

keep you stickers narrow, wide ones can trap moisture and stain the wood,
 
   / leveling and curing wood for table top #6  
Paint the end grain, get it up off the ground, cover in a way the air can flow.

For a couple of hundred years, craftsman have used planes to level the face of wood. Start with a jack plane on the high side, the work down to a jointer plane. Will take time, and you will have arms that look like Popeye the sailer man.
 
   / leveling and curing wood for table top #7  
there are different devices out there, were you mount a regular chain saw into, to turn the chain saw into a planer, to cut longer boards, widths etc... basicly they are securing the chain saw so it can not move, but maybe in one direction. so it takes the shakeness and eye balling out of cutting with the chain saw to get more accurate results. other words kinda turning a chain saw into a larger band saw for example.

if you want to do the old fashion way, simply take chain saw, and make a bunch of "cuts" right next to each other. with a little gab between each cut, and then take a flat pry bar, or large flat head screw driver and pop the pieces between your saw cuts. (like making notches in regular lumber) maybe a hammer can work in larger area, once you get the large area out to flatten things out. go back with a belt sander...

if you have a table saw, and a datto blade for it. attach a trim board on each side of the round to adjust the bottom to some degree of how you want the flatness to come out, and just make multi passes on the table saw. then once all smoothed out use a belt sander.
 
   / leveling and curing wood for table top #8  
Use an electric hand planer or the router jig.
You can use an ordinary skill saw resting on a board to make equal depth cuts.
expect cracks.
 
   / leveling and curing wood for table top
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks for all your comments and help.
I got the slabs loaded and unloaded at my shop without a problem. I then painted one side and the next day went to turn them over to paint the other side. I dropped one of the slabs about 6 inches and it split into two pieces along a rotten area that streached almost across the slabs. I will try to attach a photo of one slab and the measurement of the longest diameter. I went ahead and moved both slabs under my shed out of the sun after painting. I still plan to try to use them someway.

Oak Slab Just Cut.JPG

Slab Size 67 inch.JPG

Not sure the photos attached.
 
   / leveling and curing wood for table top #10  
Typically those are called COOKIES in the logging/wood working world, a slab is when the tree is cut vertically thru the center. Think of how a BIG conference table looks) those are typical slabs. Yours may also be called (in the round) for cookies.

When those dry they will tend to split in a pack man looking shape if not (as you found out) all the way across.

Dipping them and holding them tight helps but the shrinkage & splitting is probably 99.9% of them.

Mark
 

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