Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

JimCan · Sep 27, 2018

Cessnadriver... My 40hp J-D runs my Caroni mower pretty well. Before this tractor, I had a Ferguson 40, and I am pretty confident the J-D has more muscle. Both had H/L trans. I usually run the Caroni in 2L. If the weeds are waist high, 1L.

I did something stoopid from the beginning; I thought the Caroni was set at a fixed level and I ran it for almost two seasons waaay too low, for my needs. I jacked up the skids and tilted it back to attempt to raise it. I finally found 蛯*y looking underneath it was adjustable! I also got new belts. I'll plan on keeping a better eye on them. I still love this mower. That J-D mower CAD has sure looks nice, but too large for me.

Jim

jthibodeau89 · Sep 27, 2018

DogT said:
After seeing the talk about these flail mowers, I've been thinking about one. I always thought these things cost $10 grand and up. I could do with one for a lot less than that if they work. Currently I'm using a JD2020, 54 pto HP, with a 7' NH 451 sickle bar. I don't have a rake or baler. Which means that to cut the fields 3 times a year, I have to wait for mostly very dry conditions, there's always a lot of chaff in the fields. I currently cut about 20 acres on not very flat ground (foothills of the Blue Ridge) and a fair amount of trees, outcrop rocks, etc. which takes me about 4-5 hours per 10 acre field on 2 sides of a stream. There are no level spots, everything is on the side of a hill from the stream up. I was wondering if I should pick up a 68' or so and see how it works. $2000 is not that much and if it needs a few mods, I can deal with that, I can't deal with $10K.

This year is especially horrendous with all the rain we've had, it's hard to mow between storms and the grass is tall and the weeds have come up under the grass. But I've got the mower moving through the stuff even if it's wet. Only thing is once in a while it bogs down in the cutters and I have to back up to clear it.

I'd still use the NH to get on the banks and under the tree lines. Are these things really worth the money? I've read that back roller is too small, but the soil here is generally pretty hard unless I get in a swampy/spring area which is impossible to get into this year anyhow.

With 54 pto HP a JD390 will work fine. It isnt a light weight at 1300lbs, but mine cuts great behind my AA5670 4wd 70hp tractor. My cutting needs are almost the same as yours as we are at the base of a plateau with 200' of elevation rise on 48ac. If the weight isn't an issue i would recommend the 390 over the 25A. I have both. I paid $700 for the 25A with it needing a set of blades and $3500 for the 390 with 10hrs and still glossy paint. The 390 had features on the ends of the rotor to prevent grass wrap. After the blade replacement, and now bearing repair due to grass wrap, I will have about $1000 invested in the 25A.

def38 · Sep 27, 2018

Kscessnadriver said:
I did the same, after reading on here about the complaints. Its not a big deal, just makes you wonder why they didn't do it that way when made. I concur on the damp grass statement as well. Otherwise I find it to cut quite well.

I've got mine pushed back pretty far at the top link so as to keep the rear roller in ground contact and to give me a 3-4 inch cut height. I also have a few rocks and Buick hubcaps that I must avoid. My side skids rarely touch the ground. I changed gearbox oil once and found no smut on the drain plug. I haven't changed shaft oil as yet. I do get some blowout of the GL-5 oil from the shaft oil filler/vent but, not enough to require frequent top up. This winter, I'll remove and sharpen the hammer flails just to have something to do.

So far, I am pleased with this mower and I bought it at its lowest price. I would buy it again however, I see the prices for most all implements from Titan have increased in price recently, likely the result of the tariffs. I also have their landscape rake and drag harrow.

Kscessnadriver · Sep 28, 2018

def38 said:
I've got mine pushed back pretty far at the top link so as to keep the rear roller in ground contact and to give me a 3-4 inch cut height. I also have a few rocks and Buick hubcaps that I must avoid. My side skids rarely touch the ground. I changed gearbox oil once and found no smut on the drain plug. I haven't changed shaft oil as yet. I do get some blowout of the GL-5 oil from the shaft oil filler/vent but, not enough to require frequent top up. This winter, I'll remove and sharpen the hammer flails just to have something to do.

So far, I am pleased with this mower and I bought it at its lowest price. I would buy it again however, I see the prices for most all implements from Titan have increased in price recently, likely the result of the tariffs. I also have their landscape rake and drag harrow.

Likewise, I've rarely end up with the skids on the ground, usually somewhere very uneven ground. I also noticed the prices creeping up, I fortunately picked it up right before they went up. I had been looking at getting a second larger tractor anyway at this point (as I'd like to get into baling hay on my property as well).

AGTtactical · Sep 28, 2018

Its good to know you can keep the skids off the ground. I'm concerned about scalping... I think flail mowers should do a better job than any other type of mower. Finish mowers have a large part of the deck sticking out beyond the wheels, while a flail mower rides closer to the rear tires, and has a roller which runs the length of the housing. Woodmax recommends tilting the front of the mower up 10-15 degrees, and the roller can be lowered in back too.

Do you guys think flails reduce scalping better than other mowers?

AGTtactical · Sep 28, 2018

def38 said:
I've got mine pushed back pretty far at the top link so as to keep the rear roller in ground contact and to give me a 3-4 inch cut height. I also have a few rocks and Buick hubcaps that I must avoid. My side skids rarely touch the ground.

Good to hear about the no scalping thing!!

def38 · Sep 28, 2018

AGTtactical said:
Its good to know you can keep the skids off the ground. I'm concerned about scalping... I think flail mowers should do a better job than any other type of mower. Finish mowers have a large part of the deck sticking out beyond the wheels, while a flail mower rides closer to the rear tires, and has a roller which runs the length of the housing. Woodmax recommends tilting the front of the mower up 10-15 degrees, and the roller can be lowered in back too.

Do you guys think flails reduce scalping better than other mowers?

Regarding scalping? In a word, yes. I believe that tilting the mower as Woodmax (and others) recommend has major benefit and helps all but eliminate scalping. It easily controls the cut height as well.

leonz · Sep 28, 2018

Good morning AGTactical,

A flail mower does reduce scalping due to the full width rear roller.

It is supported and strengthened by two pieces of square tube stock welded to the flail mower shroud in the front and the rear of the flail mower above the rear roller.

This strengthens the mower as the side weldments also have full welds connecting the flail mower shroud to eliminate flexing and wracking which belly mowers are prone to do even with heavy welded mowers.

The gauge wheels are also used as anti scalp wheels by some manufacturers.

These wheel sets and the weldment's in the front and rear of the belly mowers on some manufacterers lawn mowers are the weak link and are not attached well with strong pivot weldments like the ones used on rotary cutters and wing mowers and are more prone to being stressed by the ground contours that are being mowed.

Mowing along and on a small slope with a 15 degree ascent angle also lets the mowers landing gear become bound up over time due to excess wear based on my experience with wheel horse lawn tractors.

You have to understand that by raising the flail mower using the top link does 2 things:

1. it raises the center line of the flail mower rotor higher above the ground

2. the act of raising the flail mower above "level" being Zero Degrees" or the X axis reduces the ability of the flail
mower to create a pressure gradient being a vacuum condition to allow the flail mower knives to cut and lift the
clippings up and over the flail mower rotor and back to the ground.

When this is done the flail mower will not mow as effectively and cleanly and provide the user with a better finish but the clippings will be shorter in length.

Please, please, please ask more questions.

I would like you to read the flail mower thread before you make a purchase as your money may not be well spent if you do not do your homework about flail mowers.

I want you to understand that a flail mower will outlast your current mule and it can be mounted on a new mule when or if you decide to increase the frame size and horse power.