Leaking Connection .. What to do?

[KiotiKowboy]

OK, I've got a hydraulic line leaking and could use a little guidance.
This pic is under the tractor, just behind the right-side step. The leak is on the 2nd line, the one with the yellow color code.
It appears to be leaking from the actual connection of the 2 lines, and not from the line side of either connector.
I've tried disconnecting and reconnecting the line - still leaks.

 

[boomer1025]

Replace the coupler and connector on the hose

 

[pmsmechanic]

If you look inside the female coupler when the male is removed you should be able to see an o-ring. It maybe by itself or there may be a nylon backing ring in there too. Replace them both and you should be good to go again. Make sure you install the new rings the same way the old ones came out. If in doubt look inside one of the non leaking couplers.

 

[KiotiKowboy]

If you look inside the female coupler when the male is removed you should be able to see an o-ring. It maybe by itself or there may be a nylon backing ring in there too. Replace them both and you should be good to go again. Make sure you install the new rings the same way the old ones came out. If in doubt look inside one of the non leaking couplers.

That is what I was hoping to hear, before I had to resort to Boomer's suggestion of replacing the hardware. This is my first tractor and I'm still on a uphill learning curve

I've got one other leaking issue - pic below - that I could also use some info. This one is a line on the FEL. The lines are close together and there is NO getting a wrench in there to tighten the fitting. I suspect I need to open the mounting bracket in order to spread the lines. My question really is about torque. Just how tight should these fittings be, as I don't want to strip them or kink the lines?

 

[pmsmechanic]

Your ideas are all on track. I would take the hose off of the elbow to give yourself some more room. As to how tight... I just know by feel as you need special tools to get a torque wrench in there so I would tighten it up until it quits leaking. If the line has a crack in it tightening is only going to make the leak worse and then you know that you need to either replace the line or take it to a shop where they can put a new crimp or flare on the end that leaks. Good luck

 

[VictorW]

I would think that those lines are flared, either single or double, and not compression fittings. I'd take them all the way apart and inspect the flare. Maybe somebody has already tightened them to hard and cracked the flare. If cracked, a new line or if enough line left, cut and do another flare. As mentioned, how tight is more than snug but not as hard as you can tighten with the standard length wrench that would fit those. It is a feel thing.

 

[JoelD]

When you say leak, are you seeing fluid dripping or spraying out. Which reminds me, don't mess around with leaks under pressure, injecting oil into your skin is a very bad thing to have happen. I don't see anything that looks like a leak to me.

 

[Coyote machine]

What model/year is your Kioti? It would be helpful to post that with your avatar info so we can better help you in future.
I agree to try the O-ring replacement before the fittings replacement.
Release any pressure in the lines by moving the FEL lever in all directions before disconnecting any lines/hyd hoses. Hyd fluid under pressure will penetrate your skin and can be deadly when in the bloodstream.
If the O-ring thing doesn't do the trick I'd swap out the male fitting with hose to the next position to see if it is the male or female QD that has failed. Warning, swapping out the hose with fitting to the female on the valve body may make a particular function in the opposite direction on the FEL lever while you perform the test. That area of the tractor is pretty vulnerable to branches attacking it and rendering the fitting(s) disconnected without notice. Some TBNers designed a skid plate to stop that from occurring, but the plate is different for different frame configurations, so it never really caught on. I may venture into a design of a different approach to this issue, but can't say when I'll have time to do so.

On the FEL fitting I would first wrench loose the hose connection and plug it so you don't get dirt in it. Then see if the T connector fittings are loose where they attach to the T along the FEL arm. You can possibly get a wrench or a small crescent wrench in between the lines enough to determine if something is loose. If you can't determine if the caps on each of the hard lines are loose then you may have to detach the blocks and crossover tube's metal shield to possibly allow enough slack in the hard line to pull it carefully away from the FEL arm to allow enough room to wrench it tight if it's loose, or remove it to inspect the entire fitting for damage/cross threading/cracked fitting or hard line.

 

[KiotiKowboy]

When you say leak, are you seeing fluid dripping or spraying out. Which reminds me, don't mess around with leaks under pressure, injecting oil into your skin is a very bad thing to have happen. I don't see anything that looks like a leak to me.

The coupling under the cab has a definite leak ... drip drip drip.

The FEL connector is not so obvious. You will note the fitting, the lines, the FEL arm are coated with an oil film. The film actually runs down the arm all the way to the bucket. I believe, while under pressure, it is worse but I still see only the results - with oil spots across the tractor hood. And, while I never see actual fluid ... it does create a small oil pool on the floor over time.

 

[KiotiKowboy]

What model/year is your Kioti? It would be helpful to post that with your avatar info so we can better help you in future.

2012 DK50SE HST w/Cab, KL401 FEL, Titan 72" Grapple

 

[JoelD]

My experience with flair and double flair joints is that snugging up hasn't worked and I've needed to re-do the flare. Worth pulling appart, taking a close look and then putting back to together, if upon tear down you don't see anyting obvious maybe it was just a bit loose. i've not had to replace an o-ring on a fitting but seems like a straight forward thing to try, nothing to loose on the connector bit.

 

[Highgear]

In post #4 Pic.#2 I see 3-different types of fittings . Each fitting has a different solution to fix ! So - where is the leak ?

 

[KiotiKowboy]

Alright, took a look at the leaks today.

I looked inside the underside couplers and spotted what I believe was the o-ring. This was an extremely narrow ring, buried back in the female connector. Not sure what kind of dental instruments would be required to dig this thing out for replacement. I did notice a small amount of debris inside the connector that "may" have prevented a complete seal. I cleaned this out and will have to see what happens. If it still leaks, I'm pretty sure the culprit would be the female side ( labeled as KWANG PT 3/8 ) and I'll just have to replace it.

As for the fittings on the FEL arm. I removed the mounting bracket to spread the lines a bit and was able to get wrenches on the fitting. I can tell you, it was not meant to leak - lol. I absolutely could not budge it in either direction. Makes me wonder if it is not "over" tight - perhaps resulting in a split flare. Didn't have anything in the way of a cheater for more leverage, so I'll revisit this later.

Thanks for all the input. I'll update in a few days as to my progress.

 

[Coyote machine]

Alright, took a look at the leaks today.

I looked inside the underside couplers and spotted what I believe was the o-ring. This was an extremely narrow ring, buried back in the female connector. Not sure what kind of dental instruments would be required to dig this thing out for replacement. I did notice a small amount of debris inside the connector that "may" have prevented a complete seal. I cleaned this out and will have to see what happens. If it still leaks, I'm pretty sure the culprit would be the female side ( labeled as KWANG PT 3/8 ) and I'll just have to replace it.

As for the fittings on the FEL arm. I removed the mounting bracket to spread the lines a bit and was able to get wrenches on the fitting. I can tell you, it was not meant to leak - lol. I absolutely could not budge it in either direction. Makes me wonder if it is not "over" tight - perhaps resulting in a split flare. Didn't have anything in the way of a cheater for more leverage, so I'll revisit this later.

Thanks for all the input. I'll update in a few days as to my progress.

It sounds like you are onto the solution to the main valve body under the right side station floor. Getting out any debris is the first step in the solution.:thumbsup:
You wouldn't want to further over-tighten the FEL flare fittings. Sounds like you may have a damaged flare or cap causing that leak? Can you tell which piece of the fitting is leaking?

 

[KiotiKowboy]

Can you tell which piece of the fitting is leaking?

Not yet. The whole thing was coated in grime, so I cleaned the fitting and the surrounding area today. After I get a chance to use it again, I'll check periodically to see if I can at least determine the side of the problem. Weird thing is I never see it dripping - but, I even get hydraulic fluid on the hood! I can only guess operational loads increase the pressure enough to force an intermittent discharge.

 

[Coyote machine]

Try wrapping sections of the fitting, separated by tape and possibly plastic to isolate where the leak is occurring.
Are you sure the fitting you're at is the leaking fitting, and not one up or downstream from the one you showed us?

 

[KiotiKowboy]

Yes, it's obvious the fitting is leaking.

I like your idea of wrapping. It may make it easier to isolate.