LB2204 Cold Starting

[grsthegreat]

Than the battery looks good. Very weird. Sure seems like a glow plug issue.

 

[RandR10]

After the rebuild did you time the fuel pump by chance?

Yes. Cams for both the valves and injection pump were timed when the engine was reassembled.

 

[JoelD]

When I start in cold I cycle glow plugs then when I start tractor I flip key back and power glow plugs, helps to smooth out faster.

Although 30 seconds is a long time regardless

Maybe compression?

Joel

 

[RandR10]

When I start in cold I cycle glow plugs then when I start tractor I flip key back and power glow plugs, helps to smooth out faster.

Although 30 seconds is a long time regardless

Maybe compression?

Joel

If it was compression I'd be very surprised. Brand new sleeves, pistons and rings. Lapped the valves in before reassembly too. I noticed last time I was in there messing around with the hydraulics a little bit of fuel collecting on top of the injection pump. That's gotta be the problem. When I pulled the motor a lot of fasteners were completely loose, including in the fuel system. I didn't have the injection pump apart but I wouldn't be surprised if it's been tinkered with and not torqued back down properly. I'm probably going to go through that next since everything seems to check out on the glow plugs.

 

[Username Taken]

Mine doesn't run rough for 30 seconds, but it definitely runs rough for 15-20 seconds. I think it's just the IDI pre-combustion and the injectors and the fact that it's 1930's technology.

I love it.

 

[RandR10]

Mine doesn't run rough for 30 seconds, but it definitely runs rough for 15-20 seconds. I think it's just the IDI pre-combustion and the injectors and the fact that it's 1930's technology.

I love it.

Thanks for the insight. It's helpful to me because I've never wrenched on a 3-cylinder diesel tractor engine before this one. I had a 7.3 IDI powered box truck for about a year a couple years ago and that one when everything was dialed in and working properly would fire instantly with no roughness to the idle. When I sold it, it had been setting for 4 days on a 40 degree day it fired right up like this after I let the glow plugs cycle. I guess maybe that's a bit much to ask for with this particular setup? Maybe 3 cylinders is a bit harder to get spinning fast enough vs. 8?

 

[Username Taken]

Thanks for the insight. It's helpful to me because I've never wrenched on a 3-cylinder diesel tractor engine before this one. I had a 7.3 IDI powered box truck for about a year a couple years ago and that one when everything was dialed in and working properly would fire instantly with no roughness to the idle. When I sold it, it had been setting for 4 days on a 40 degree day it fired right up like this after I let the glow plugs cycle. I guess maybe that's a bit much to ask for with this particular setup? Maybe 3 cylinders is a bit harder to get spinning fast enough vs. 8?

My brother had one in his F-350. Hated it so much I loved it. Gutless, smelled, rough. The good old days.

I was a little taken aback by how much my Kioti spit and sputtered in fits and farts when cold. Bur I was told it's normal by several people. I'd like to be able to tell you it gets better but it really doesn't until it's warmed up -- A lot. I wonder if some of it is piston slap. I would think that with Daedong's experience in machining quality blocks and heads for decades, they'd be state of the art. Maybe they use 'barrel-shaped' pistons.

I stopped worrying about it

 

[Robin Veerman]

Here’s a picture of Amsoil Cetane boost, with some info, that I use. You should try a Cetane boost of your favourite brand and see if it doesn’t make a difference. Diesel needs to be over 50 cetane to ignite/burn efficiently but it’s generally not even close. Hopefully the picture opens…

 

[AWSubie]

One method for troubleshooting diesel starting issues is to buy an inexpensive RPM tester.

Diesel engines require about 200 rpm for reliable starting. Even when the engine sounds like it is spinning fast enough, it is difficult to tell whether it is, if you don’t have a tester.

In cold weather, diesels need a battery that is in above average condition.

 

[RandR10]

A little update on this. While troubleshooting (and fixing) my hydraulic issue, which I'll talk about in my other thread, I found a pretty bad leak in the fuel bowl valve. Tried to fix it with a new o-ring but it still leaks. I'm thinking corrosion must have caused pitting in the housing and I'll have to replace it. Definitely a good way for air to get into the fuel. I also pulled off the little nuts on the top of the injection pump and replaced the o-rings on those while I was in there, so hopefully the fuel system won't have any way for air ingress. I'm thinking that's got to be my issue with starting. I'll give an update when I get the new fuel bowl assembly and put it together.