lawn verticutter and seeder

[yugo]

I've been working on something to reseed the yard (established grass). In the hot summer's 100 degree weather, here in Kansas, without lawn irrigation, we lose a lot of grass, so that it needs reseeded yearly, to keep a half way established yard. This area uses Fescue 33, and some blue grass. We have a broadcast seeder (PTO driven), and a small drop seeder that we had been using during the winter dormant months. We weren't happy with the results. So, I researched various internet sites and our local extension office, and they highly recommended verticutting the existing lawn, to get the new seed in the ground. So, I bought a used PTO driven 4 ' wide tiller. I cut and straightened the tangs(teeth) to cut straight grooves in the ground 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep to get the seed in the ground. I added an old drop seeder and a presser roller. The roller drives the seeder regardless of the tractor speed. The seeder is a drop seeder that has gear-like distribution, and is adjustable (it is from an old grain drill). The back pressure roll is adjustable, and the tractor's hydraulic adjust the depth of the cut. We used it this spring, and put about 225 lbs of fescue through it. It may need a little re-modification - or tweaking! Any input - positive or negative would be appreciated. See attachment, if interested. Yugo

 

[PineRidge]

Well the dog looks like he approves and so do I. How does it work have you had the opportunity to try it out yet?

I would think that if you have drought conditions that you might also want to check into Zoysia grass. what it is

 

[billbill1]

What's the going rate for you come and use that on my rock farm?

 

[Onthesauk]

That is a very slick attachment. The only thing I would worry about is getting the seed down too deep. Are you able to adjust the tiller to cut fairly shallow? Out here where we get a lot more moisture, the seed gets planted right on the surface and then rolled in. I would be concerned that if it gets down more then a quarter of an inch or so fescue won't be able to sprout. Regardless, nice work!

 

[RonR]

Looks Great.

Curious if you added more cutting teeth? On my tiller, the tines are about 8" apart, so that is spaced pretty wide to verticut, unless you make multiple passes.

THKS.
ron

 

[Charolais]

Pretty work. And a great idea to boot.

I experimented some in pasture and hay fields with a tiller and broadcast seeder. Then run a cultipacker behind it. I ran the seeder on the front of the tractor and used the shoes on the tiller to get the right depth.(1/2") Different soil here and more rain I expect. I seed in the fall and it's pretty darn easy to get a good stand of grass if there's not a drought going on.

I've just about got all the materials together to make a change in my setup. Bought a CCM 90" HD tiller back in Feb. Will mount the broadcast (ele.) seeder on the back of the tiller and add a ball hitch also behind the tiller to pull a cultipacker. I'll also extend the tongue on the cultipacker to make sure all the seed fall in front of it. I won't change the tines and it won't be used for lawns.

I found an old McCormick Deering cultipacker for $150. It has a wood tongue so it's old. It also has cast iron ends for the cross shaft hanger. One has been broken and the bushings are shot. I'll remove those ends and replace with a steel frame with pillow block bearings.

Again you did a great job. I know you'll get it dialed in soon. One pass seeding with light tillage is far better than no-till for me and a lot less cost of full tillage and starting over. With this method lots of existing sod remains and the new seedlings fill in the rest.

 

[johan3400]

I too am impressed. Looking forward to hearing the spacing on your knives. The Rogers, Olathe, and Jacobson all have 3 inch spacings and you typically run the seed .5 inches deep. I am sure you will enjoy using yours. Great job.

 

[yugo]

Jim, Charolais, Ron, Bill, Onthesauk, & Mike,
Thanks for the nice replies. We appreciate any input on re-seeding established lawns.
I purchased this old tiller from a farm implement dealer, and the tangs were extensively worn. I can't tell you what brand it is, apparently it was a grey market with funny oriental writing only on it. But, the spacing of the tangs is no more than 3 inches apart, and maybe a little less. I put away, and haven't been up to the shed to measure.
I experimented with it this spring. Normally I like to plant the grass seed during a warm spell in winter weather. We did notice that it seems to work very well in the loosened soil (from the freezing action). We traveled 2 1/2 to 3 miles per hour. Between the tractor hydraulics and the pressure wheel on the back, it's very easy to maintain the maximum of 1/2 inch deep cut.
If you run into harder ground, and need to slow down to let the tiller do it's job, the seed output remains the same. As an old farmer, most all the equipment I've used has a bushel per acre seed adjustment. This old IH seeder attachment (for a wheat drill) has a dial that is in pints per acre. More math!!
Oh, yes, Mike, I bought one of those Pine Ridge hats the other day. The wife says I don't look nearly as dignified as the PineRidge guy does.
Billbill1 - A fish fry and a 6 pack might get the machine to your house!
Have a good one! Yugo

 

[Indydirtfarmer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
Oh, yes, Mike, I bought one of those Pine Ridge hats the other day. The wife says I don't look nearly as dignified as the PineRidge guy does.
Have a good one! Yugo )</font>

Got me one also. It's kahki colored, but the same style hat. Wife thinks I look "stunning" with it on. I'm looking in to having her eyes checked....

 

[Bully]

from the photo, it looks like your pulling it with an old Ford. Can you slow the speed down enough to make it function ?