Rear Blade Land Pride RBT3596 Hydraulic upgrade

[ovrszd]

Couple weeks ago I bought this Land Pride RBT3596 rear blade. It's a 2010 model. Has one hydraulic cylinder to change angle. Side shift and Tilt are controlled with mechanical linkage. Blade had obviously spent the past 10 years sitting in a machine shed. Might have 5 hours of use.

Dealer asked $2250. I paid $1950. I scattered a couple snow piles and decided I wanted to upgrade the hydraulic functions.

 

[ovrszd]

Bought this blade to match my Ford. Seems to be a pretty good fit.

 

[ovrszd]

Several times in the Operator's Manual it warns about the end of the moldboard making contact with the tractor rear tires. They are right. Caution needs to be used when angling and shifting the blade to the maximum. I can see where this could be easily done if all functions were hydraulic. Paying attention to the task at hand and not watching tire contact.

 

[ovrszd]

I have a Hydraulic Top Link on this tractor. The tractor has two rear remotes. I definitely wanted to continue to use the hydraulic top link. Improves blade use angles and increases carried moldboard height. Both important for me when using it in the timber, crossing ditches.

 

[BukitCase]

Nice blade Richard; sooo, from your thread title it sounds like there's gonna be more to this story? I know where I'd be headed from here, but I'm borderline insane :laughing:

I would be ordering a Scorpion handle for the second remote, and running a couple of stacked 12 volt diverter valves to the OTHER two (still needed) cylinders that replace the mechanical adjustments - that way, top link would ALWAYS be toplink, and the second remote would run whichever diverter depending on which button on the scorpion handle you pushed (actually, unless you needed MORE remotes it'd only take ONE diverter to do that. (Did I mention the insanity part?

Both my smaller tractors are older, as is my backhoe, so I've added manual diverters to both tractors for now, the Allis gets used for my Gannon box and having TnT (and a bunch of front weights ) REALLY makes that Gannon useful. I have all the parts to insert a 4 section valve into the hydraulics, at which time the mechanical diverter will not be needed. The new valve setup will let me get rid of the manual diverter and STILL give me a circuit for the hydraulic rippers, so necessary for my clay soil.

I may never finish all the similar projects I have on the list, but I'm confident I'll not get bored before they "pat me in the face with a shovel", so I'm gonna call that a WIN :thumbsup: ... Steve

 

[ovrszd]

Steve thinks like I do. But I must be older and be exerting more control over my desires!!!!

I added an electronic double selector valve. This let me split my second rear remote and run two cylinders. This allows me to keep the top link on a circuit by itself.

After running the blade thru it's motions and realizing my rear tractor tires are in danger I decided to not set the side shift on hydraulics. I feared not paying close attention and in the heat of the moment getting the blade into my tires. So I left that function mechanical. It's easy to do with a pinned telescopic tube.

I added a 2"x6" cylinder to the tilt function. Sized the hoses so they have enough length to allow me to reverse the moldboard.

Then plumbed the tilt and angle into the selector valve. I then added a Toggle switch on the tractor fender near the hydraulic controls. Turn the switch on and the lever runs tilt. Turn the switch off and the lever runs angle. I may have to move the switch. I wanted it to be handy and near the hydraulic lever. But I may inadvertently bump it. I often ride with my right hand on the fender near that location. Time will tell. Very easy to move.

I used a common two wire connector for the electrical circuit to the selector valve. The connector is right beside the tractor hydraulic couplers. It's also a non locking connector that will simply pull apart if/when I drive off without disconnecting.....

The selector valve is a 100% duty cycle solenoid so I don't have to worry about it burning itself out or getting hot. I powered the switch thru a 15A fused circuit fed by a "key on" circuit. If I forget to turn off the valve solenoid it loses power when I shut down the tractor. Keeps old guys like me from running the battery down.

I bladed 1/2 mile of gravel roadway with it couple days ago. Works great. Nice addition to the Machine Shed.

I spent $341 with Surplus Center and another $100 or so at the local store. So I'm at $2,391. Have no idea what a new one costs. Hopefully I'm under that by enough to be worth my time.

 

[LouNY]

Nice setup, I wouldn't be overly concerned about the tire contact as thats only when you are at full offset,
and full angle. I use the full offset when ditching, all the offset most of the tilt angle and about half the rotation angle
Makes a good ditch that way.

 

[ovrszd]

Nice setup, I wouldn't be overly concerned about the tire contact as thats only when you are at full offset,
and full angle. I use the full offset when ditching, all the offset most of the tilt angle and about half the rotation angle
Makes a good ditch that way.

Thanks Lou.

I agree concerning use.

I wonder if I could use a 2" shorter cylinder. Which would shorten side shift to the right and stay away from the right tire?

Then put a snap on stopper on the cylinder to stop it from completely retracting which would keep the blade away from the left tire?

I realize I would lose some side shift. But might be good insurance??

As you can see in a couple of the pics, when the blade is full side shift and angle the moldboard is almost running straight with tractor travel direction. I don't think I'd ever use it in the position. I just feared inadvertently putting it in that position and hooking a tire.....

 

[LouNY]

Thanks Lou.

I agree concerning use.

I wonder if I could use a 2" shorter cylinder. Which would shorten side shift to the right and stay away from the right tire?

Then put a snap on stopper on the cylinder to stop it from completely retracting which would keep the blade away from the left tire?

I realize I would lose some side shift. But might be good insurance??

As you can see in a couple of the pics, when the blade is full side shift and angle the moldboard is almost running straight with tractor travel direction. I don't think I'd ever use it in the position. I just feared inadvertently putting it in that position and hooking a tire.....

Definitely could would reduce the worry, and then if needed full offst could be arrived by flipping which side of the hitch the offset is on.
Most of them can have the cylender on either side, I have seen them with 2 cylinders when an excess of horsepower is available.
Mine gets more offset with the cylinder extended then retracted, if I need all the offset posible I'll swap sides with the cylinder.

 

[ptsg]

Looking good Richard! Nice work. That's a nice match for the Ford. :thumbsup: