L3830 50hr Service-Hydraulic Fluid Change

[Worksmart]

My parent's L3830 has just reached 50hrs and I'm ready to take care of the required service. Called my dealer to pick his brain and he shared something which confused me. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif He said they don't change the hydraulic fluid at 50 hrs as long as it is "clean".......only the engine oil/hydraulic filters and engine oil. They said when the tractors were built overseas it was "necessary" because of the salt environment under which the tractor was shipped. Now they are assembled in the States so it isn't as critical. They indicated the area rep is aware of this and it isn't a problem. They said it is quite a waste of fluid and money. I didn't ask what the first interval is to change the hydraulic oil.

This could start quite an interesting thread so let it rip. I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet so any and all input is appreciated. I did in fact change the fluid on my BX22 at 50hrs.

Chuck

 

[txdon]

Get it in writing from Kubota USA so you will not have any warranty issues later. And, also ask them to change the owners manual.

 

[JimR]

Here are the specs for my Cub Cadet 7275. Replace the engine oil and oil filter, HST oil filter, front axle fluid, check belts, clean air filter. I would not change the hydraulic fluid unless it was dirty. I doubt very much that it would be. One nutty thing it has listed is to change the anti-freeze yearly. This is a complete waste of money and time. The hydraulic system it says yearly or as needed. I will change mine when it looks to be getting dirty. It says to check the fluid condition every 200 hours. I know this is not a Kubota. But all tractors use the same type of systems and should all be quite similar in design.

 

[dlgmt]

I did the 50hr. service on my 3130HST this past weekend and also thought is was wasteful changing the fluid, until I removed the hydraulic filter and saw the fine metal shavings that had collected on the magnet in the filter, so changing the 11 gallons of fluid was good preventative maintenance. I did use Kubota filters but didn't use Kubota UDT, I used TSC's fluid which is supposed to be compatible.

 

[Theowegian]

Hello.

I also spent my saturday performing the 50 hour service on my new L3130. It was fun! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

But I dreaded changing the hydraulic fluid. Actually, the activity wasnt difficult. However, I saw some interesting things come out of my hydraulic fluid. Like another poster mentioned, there were metal shavings on one of the filters' magnets. Also, my oil did have a little bit of a sheen to to it on the surface. I know some may disagree with this, but it seems to me that the oil quality was very good. BUT, it is the contaminates that this 50 hour oil drain carries away. The wear debris needs to be removed. These contaminates should lodge in the filter and the super small particles will be drained via the oil drain.

So anyway, I "obeyed the book" and changed all filters and changed the lube oil, too. One thing I might add. I think I shall go with a true gear oil for the front axle, as opposed to the hydraulic fluid. Gear oil has EP (exteme pressure) additives which is probably a good thing for those front gear sets.
Yeah, it was pricey to change all them fluids and it took all afternoon to do it, but gee, I slept good knowing my Super UDT will serve me well.
dwight

 

[hammer1995]

My dealer gave me the same story about my 3130. I simply was not comfortable taking that risk, so I changed the fluid and replaced with Super UDT. With the money I have invested, the cost of the fluid was relatively small.

 

[_RaT_]

And its good now until 400 hours, something depending on your use may take a number of years to achieve. I too think using the old 50 hour fluid would be fine but spent the money and put in UDT. If my climate was cold, I'd go with Super UDT. The metal you see is typical and is trapped either by the magnet or the filter. For HST users, the oil is filtered by the separate high pressure HST filter for the HST. In effect, you have two filters working. On the L48, you have 3 filters working. I put UDT in my front axle as well. Thats what it came with on both my L48 and L3830.

 

[5030]

Rat:

I think I have stated this before, I run 85/90 GL5 ep gear oil in the front axle in the summer and UDT in the winter. I remember talking to Kubota in Torrance last year about the ac on the 5030 and the guy told me that SUDT was only necessary in the BX series in colder climates?

As far as not changing the UDT at 50 hours and waiting until 400, well, I run so many different implements, all with hydraulics, that I probably mix my fluid with others so I changed at 50/400 and the end of every year or the 400 hour interval. Remember, we share implements with various makes of tractors ie: Deere, Massey and IH.

As far as extending the initial change to 400 hours, even though it may be changed, my shop manual as well as the owners manual states 50 hours/400. Considering the price of a tractor versus the price of a fluid change, the fluid is moot compared to the tractor. Besides, it's good to get under the tractor, drain the fluid and see what is going on down there. It's also a good time to inspect the undercarriage for loose fittings, drain the clutch housing and grease the front axle pivots.

I don't understand some posters worry about the price of fluids considering the price of the tractor initially. If you can't afford it, don't buy it (tractor) in the first place.

I use DCA4 (Cummins) in my cooling system. I check that with a DCA4 test kit as to Ph. I have a need/release filter (Wix) on my Powerstroke, on my Deere and will probably put one on the Kubota if I can find room under the hood. Ethylene Glycol wears out too or should I say, the Ph., changes due to the heating and cooling. Antifreeze maintenance is a lot more important on a wet liner engine as opposed to a dry liner engine, however, a dry liner engine will still deteriorate internally from acidic antifreeze.

 

[_RaT_]

"I run 85/90 GL5 ep gear oil in the front axle in the summer and UDT in the winter"


Man Daryl, thats to much work. I use UDT year round in the axle simply because it is a very slow turning gear set and does not develop the extreme pressure found in high speed differentials. Besides, it's what Kubota put in it to start. Either way both will work fine except the gear oil will take much longer to drain out. I changed my hydraulic oil at 50 hours for much the same reason you stated regarding tractor price and the oil really being pretty cheap. I just saved it and put it in the International. My manual suggests using Super UDT. It makes sense regardless of tractor model if you have a cold climate. I really don't have much in the way of cold. Sometimes we get a thin layer of ice in the dog's water bowl.

 

[5030]

Rat:

I run the ep in the summer because when we hay, some of the fields require 4wd and I'm working the 5030 at it's maximum capacity all day and half the night. Like 2300 rpm in L range for hours on end. I've checked the front axle case on occasion and it gets hot from the engine heat. I inadvertently left the ep in last fall. My first snow removal adventure in 4wd, well, when I locked in the front case, I had a noticeable pull down from the ep. I put the tractor in the heated shop, pulled the drain plug, tilted the axle and the next day after the ep was drained, refilled with UDT.

I think I am going to modify the fan hub to accept an electric or viscous drive clutch fan. At 2300, the fan is eating quite a bit of power. Besides, it sounds like a wind tunnel.

All I do is put in fuel, run it down and put in more fuel. I've never worked a tractor as hard as I work this one. I have to say, with reservation of course, I have had 0 failures to date at 600 hours. That is, other than the door I ripped off last year. That glass shatters with a pop. $700.00 later, I had a new door. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Rat:

I'd be watching your coolant. Your heat/cool cycles are just as extreme as mine. You can purchase a Ph test kit at about any truck dealership and I think Pep Boys and Murrays have them too. Even without the addition of DCA4, the test kits will tell you at a glance your dilution ratio as well as whether your coolant is becoming acidic. Works great for your 4 wheeler too.

I see that you can buy pre-charged coolant by the gallon at Murrays. The pre-charged coolant already has the DCA in it. One thing about DCA, the DCA is sacrificial, that is, it gets used up in the heat/cool cycles. That is why in your diesel pickup you must add a charge every so often. Basically, DCA is potassium permagnate, trace chemicals and distilled water.