Buying Advice L3200HST vs L3800HST

   / L3200HST vs L3800HST #31  
...Is it just an annoyance or is it a major PITA?
I can't talk about the new version of the "jerkiness"... you'll have to try that for yourself. ...but the old 2004 to early 2006-ish was a REAL pain in the backside. Shook the whole tractor around...
 
   / L3200HST vs L3800HST #32  
The only time I think about the "jerky" 3pt is when I am on this forum, I sure dont when I am using it. BUT I dont box blade, so take this for what is is worth, If you want to go up an inch, then move the 3pt lever up some smartly, there will be one jerk at the end when the implement stops.That is all. Then slowly push the lever down as slow as you want to slowly get the implement right where you want it. You just cant s-l-o-w-l-y move the lever up, If you do, it will jerk jerk jerk. It is so second nature to me now I dont even think about it. Is it a great feature? no, it is like Chilly said, a wart on a beautiful woman. The standard L series are good solid powerful tractors for a good price. But they are not perfect.

James K0UA
 
   / L3200HST vs L3800HST #34  
I will be using the blade for leveling earth on a treed property I bought for my yard. I then planned to use the box blade for more precise grading after the blade. Are these the best two implements for accomplishing what I need? The blade will then be used afterwards to keep my 200' driveway clear in the winter which is at a 5-10% grade.

I was thinking the 25 series because I was worried about snagging a large root or rock when grading the yard and bending the blade. I figured the extra weight wouldn't hurt either. Am I out to lunch?

I've hooked a few big rocks and stumps with the L3400 and the 1572 blade, which is supposedly light-duty. No bends yet.. You won't go wrong with the 25 series, you may spend more money than you need to is all. The extra weight would be nice, no question.

The heavier blades also use a stiffer mouldboard, which reduces chatter over hard surfaces. For example, I can't grade a really hard-packed driveway with mine, it doesn't have the stiffness or weight to dig in. I don't have a box blade..yet.

If I had bought the blade new, it wouldn't have been the 15 series, and likely would have been 7 feet also, but it was priced right used and it's worked for me so far. I would have gone for either the 18 series, or possibly the 25 as you're thinking of. I usually buy too much rather than take the chance of not having enough and having to do it over.

Some blades are off-setable to each side, as well as being adjustable for tilt. The quick offset feature would be nice for plowing snow, mine is a simple straight T hookup. The power angle is really nice, saves having to jump on and off the tractor to change the blade angle.

Sean
 

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   / L3200HST vs L3800HST
  • Thread Starter
#35  
I don't think Land Pride makes the 18 series anymore. I don't see it listed on their website.

I'm hoping the dealer can get the 3800 closer to the price of the 3200 and if so I will go that way, but if he only comes down a couple hundred I am wondering if that money wouldn't be better spent on having a rear control added for the power angle on the blade. I am only using the tractor on a 3 acre parcel, but both my brother and brother in law both have 80 acres that want stuff done with a tractor and don't have the $$$ to get one yet. I'm gonna help them out with a few projects I'm sure like creating some dirt bike trails and grading a road in. At most I would run a 5' rough cut mower and the grass would never be more than 3-4' and not super thick.

One of the reasons I am looking at new is you can't find a decent compact around here. If they get listed they get sold almost immediately or they are way over priced and you might as well buy new.

Decisions...decisions.
 
   / L3200HST vs L3800HST #36  
One of the reasons I am looking at new is you can't find a decent compact around here. If they get listed they get sold almost immediately or they are way over priced and you might as well buy new.

Decisions...decisions.

We had the same problem, after looking for a couple years we finally decided that we'd have it for 20 years anyway, so we might as well buy new.

Sean
 
   / L3200HST vs L3800HST #37  
I don't think Land Pride makes the 18 series anymore. I don't see it listed on their website.

I see what you mean, there's a better than average chance I was mistaken and they didn't make an 18 series blade. They do make an 18 series in their rotary cutters, I thought there would be that level of blade as well.

In that case, the 15 series blade may be a bit light duty for what you have in mind, although mine's doing 90% of what I need it to do with about the same size tractor. Grading a compacted driveway will be a problem unless you can rip it up first with the box blade rippers. I try to do mine first thing in the spring before the ground gets too hard.

Snow removal is what the 15 series does best, although it's up to moving loose material too. Up to about 12 inches of snow is workable, beyond that and it has a tough time handling the volume. I usually punch a hole through deep snow with the FEL, then finish with the blade. Makes a nice finished job. You may want to consider the skid shoes for the blade as well for snow removal, otherwise your gravel will migrate to the ditch until the ground freezes hard. Again, I built mine from scratch, great excuse to get out the metal-working gear and welder.


The hydraulic angle isn't a factory option until you get up to the RBT40 series of blades, the smallest one that has even a factory hydraulic offset option is the RB35.

I added a hydraulic cylinder to mine because I got fed up with getting on and off the tractor every two minutes while snow clearing. A few hours with a welder and some steel and it was done. There's a whole other thread here about that saga, in particular my discovery that my first attempt wasn't going to work so well. It makes good reading, and may save you some of the problems I encountered.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/189597-adding-cylinder-mount-rear-blade.html

and the re-design phase..

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/192127-cylinder-travel-limiter.html

I'll be using mine this weekend to move some soil, I'll see if I can get a video of that and the hydraulic angle in action.

My experience with tractors has been that foresight is much less expensive than hindsight, although the process can be time-consuming. If the missus complains about the amount of time you're spending reading these threads, you can quote me on that if you like.

Sean
 
   / L3200HST vs L3800HST #38  
The hydraulic angle isn't a factory option until you get up to the RBT40 series of blades, the smallest one that has even a factory hydraulic offset option is the RB35.
Sean

Just a note, Land Pride now has an RBT35 series blade that can be ordered with full hydraulics. As far as I know, no other manufacturer has a fully hydraulic blade available that is this light. (700lb range) Most are the next size up (RBT40 series) or bigger. I know that I look forward to the day that I can afford an RBT3584 for my smaller tractor. :drool:
 
   / L3200HST vs L3800HST #39  
I agree with the person who recommended a L2800 for that small acreage. We have L2800 HST, FEL, industrial tires, for 10 acres and it seems about right. No problems with 6' blade and 5" hog and finish mower. Runs great and fuel usage is good. We are currently putting in French drains and am amazed how easy it is to dig a ditch with the FEL. Would be easier with a backhoe, but not $7000 worth!

The recommendation about raising hitch fast then easing back down to exact spot is 100% right-on. Always pull the lever up at a moderate speed and you will never notice jerkiness.
 

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