L2950 GST

[jenny]

I am a total newbie looking for a tractor for my 5-acre horse property, main uses will be moving manure/compost, tilling and some grading/small scale earth moving. I'm looking at a L2950 GST, have specs and pics and would appreciate this group's feedback on whether this is the right kind of machine for my needs and if this is a good deal....thanks!

Here's what the seller says:

"It has a 4 cyl Kubota engine & it'll host any kind of implement, such as a rototiller, flare mower, box scraper, auger etc etc. It has a front loader bucket too for lifting hay, dirt, compost, clean out horse stalls etc. It has new tires and is 4x4. $75oo, that includes a brand new front bucket that isn't on it in the photos & either a box scraper or a rototiller.


For $8ooo I can give you both the rototiller & the box scraper. It was recently serviced in June & is a pretty expensive machine w/ low hours too, you'd be getting a great deal.

3500 hours"

I feel like that's a lot of hours but the price is right However I don't want to end up with something that can't do what I need it to do and/or breaks down constantly. What do the experts say/think??

Thanks!!

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

3500 hours!!!!! I'd never do it but I always buy new. 0% for 60 months returns next week and even longer for a slight fee. Never make your first tractor one that will sour you on tractors. If you have to do a major repair the dollar amounts will be in the thousands and you'll still have a wore out tractor. Also, for FEL work I wouldn't ever have anything but a HST, I know, here comes the old country guys that don't like color TV or automatics that tear up according to people that don't own them. People that do don't seem to have the tear up problem. Most newer tractors that are sold are HST's, ask a dealer, because that's what most people want. Rare to find someone that will "go back to gears" after having an HST. Not saying there aren't any maybet one or 2 but for everyone that prefers gears there are 99 that prefer HST. Ask a dealer that sells them. The gauntlet is thrown so get ready.

 

[jenny]

Ok, thanks for the info! Can you recommend an appropriate Kubota for my needs? Would I be better off with a skid steer or a tractor? Thanks!

 

[magicheater]

Tractor definitely, more stability and visibility. There are plenty of used Kubotas out there w/less than 500 hrs. They are just broke in at that point! I got both of mine w/200+ hrs. If you plan on using the loader a lot get a little bigger tractor.

 

[jenny]

by bigger do you mean HP or ... ? i am really truly a newbie thanks!

 

[KU Gator]

Jenny,

I will talk in Kubota terms, because I know them better, but there are obviously other good brands.

The BX size Kubota is a SCUT or Sub Compact Utility Tractor. Great mower which can do a lot more than a garden tractor. HP ranges from about 18 - 26 HP. It can have a loader added plus use equipment off the 3pt hitch in the back such a rotary mower commonly called a brush hog for mowing field type grass, a rear finish mower (RFM) or have a mid mount mower (MMM or belly mower). It is small enough to into relatively confined areas such as stall areas maybe. It is limited by weight of the tractor, power of the hydolics, and perhaps most by clearance under the tractor. But the clearance is only isssue obviously by what you would need to go over.

The B size Kubota is a CUT or Compact. Still a good mower and has the ability to still use a MMM. Also has the 3 pt hitch and power take off on the rear like the BX of course so you can use the mowers on the back as well but can use a little larger. On BX you might want to stick to a 4' rough cut mower but on a B could move up to a 5'. HP ranges from 23 to 32 HP. The tractor is a little heavier, has stronger hydrolics so can therefore handle a little bigger chores. It also has higher ground clearance so less issue with traversing in most areas.

The L size Kubota is a UT. The HP starts about 28 and goes to about 44, although I am not as familiar with it, but that's ball park. Now unless you go to the Grand L, I don't think MMM can be used, so you only have the rear mower options. As with the move from the BX to B, you are moving up in weight of the tractor and power of the hydrolics.

With that, the best thing is to go to a local dealer and sit on a few. Once you get a general feel, any dealer should let you test drive them. With minimal explaination, you should be able to at least be able to drive them around the lot. My wife had never been on a tractor when we test drove them, but was comfortable operating a BX and 2 B's as part of the decision. Even if you decide to buy used, this process will help you target what you are looking for.

Like with most thing, there are times when it will be too small and sometimes too big. Try to determine what you will be spending most of your time doing try to decide what will work best for those applications and improvise, rent or contract the other work. We bought the B size. It works for us well to do what we do most of the stuff we do and I didn't want to go to an L since I trailer it to our other property, but sometimes I wish for the L, but that is when I am clearing areas of brush. If I was in more of a hurry, I would hire someone with a bulldozer to clear it quick.

As John Thomas said, most are the dealerships are offering 0% financing. Tractors tend to hold their value if they are a good brand and maintained, so it may be worthwhile to consider new if you are ok with the 4 or 5 years of payments. If you are buying used, there are probably some great deals, but requires a more knowledgeable eye and maybe someone to go along. Much like I wouldn't buy a horse without taking someone along who knew more than me which virtually anyone would.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Jenny,

I will talk in Kubota terms, because I know them better, but there are obviously other good brands.

The BX size Kubota is a SCUT or Sub Compact Utility Tractor. Great mower which can do a lot more than a garden tractor. HP ranges from about 18 - 26 HP. It can have a loader added plus use equipment off the 3pt hitch in the back such a rotary mower commonly called a brush hog for mowing field type grass, a rear finish mower (RFM) or have a mid mount mower (MMM or belly mower). It is small enough to into relatively confined areas such as stall areas maybe. It is limited by weight of the tractor, power of the hydolics, and perhaps most by clearance under the tractor. But the clearance is only isssue obviously by what you would need to go over.

The B size Kubota is a CUT or Compact. Still a good mower and has the ability to still use a MMM. Also has the 3 pt hitch and power take off on the rear like the BX of course so you can use the mowers on the back as well but can use a little larger. On BX you might want to stick to a 4' rough cut mower but on a B could move up to a 5'. HP ranges from 23 to 32 HP. The tractor is a little heavier, has stronger hydrolics so can therefore handle a little bigger chores. It also has higher ground clearance so less issue with traversing in most areas.

The L size Kubota is a UT. The HP starts about 28 and goes to about 44, although I am not as familiar with it, but that's ball park. Now unless you go to the Grand L, I don't think MMM can be used, so you only have the rear mower options. As with the move from the BX to B, you are moving up in weight of the tractor and power of the hydrolics.

With that, the best thing is to go to a local dealer and sit on a few. Once you get a general feel, any dealer should let you test drive them. With minimal explaination, you should be able to at least be able to drive them around the lot. My wife had never been on a tractor when we test drove them, but was comfortable operating a BX and 2 B's as part of the decision. Even if you decide to buy used, this process will help you target what you are looking for.

Like with most thing, there are times when it will be too small and sometimes too big. Try to determine what you will be spending most of your time doing try to decide what will work best for those applications and improvise, rent or contract the other work. We bought the B size. It works for us well to do what we do most of the stuff we do and I didn't want to go to an L since I trailer it to our other property, but sometimes I wish for the L, but that is when I am clearing areas of brush. If I was in more of a hurry, I would hire someone with a bulldozer to clear it quick.

As John Thomas said, most are the dealerships are offering 0% financing. Tractors tend to hold their value if they are a good brand and maintained, so it may be worthwhile to consider new if you are ok with the 4 or 5 years of payments. If you are buying used, there are probably some great deals, but requires a more knowledgeable eye and maybe someone to go along. Much like I wouldn't buy a horse without taking someone along who knew more than me which virtually anyone would.

Good advise.

 

[magicheater]

Yes, very complete good advice. Just shop around Jenny, take your time, weigh the uses, both immediate and future, come back here and ask questions.

 

[KU Gator]

I reread my post and noticed I did not give any info on the numbers. As indicated, I have a B2920. The "B" tells you it is a CUT. The 2920 is an indication of HP and Series. The B2x20 series is built with a 23, 26, and 29 hp engine. The 23 hp version has a little less loader capacity, but otherwise they are basicly all the same as part of a 20 series except for the HP.

My experience is for things like using the loader or a box blade that I am dragging behind the tractor, I run out of traction before power, so I doubt that there is much difference in what a 26 hp tractor with the same weight and tires vs a 29 hp tractor. The little increase in hp may let me do something like operate a mower in heavy grass or a rotitiller a little faster before the engine starts to lug down.

Also, these are small diesel engines. A 20 something hp diesel tractor can do a lot more work than the same hp gas engine you would find in a garden tractor.

We all went through the same confusion at some time. So don't be afraid to ask.