Buying Advice L2501hst $18.3 vs L3800hst $20.6k

[freezypops]

L2501hst $18.3kk FEL W/qa
L3800hst $20.8kk FEL W/qa
Snowplowing. Driveway maintaining. Skidding firewood. Small 1-2 acre tilling in future. No brushhogging.
R1 tires loaded with lp bb1260.

Trying to justify $2.5k difference.

L3800 lot weathered 1.5yr
L2501 brand new and shinny. Newer engine design.

Oppinions . suggestions?

 

[motownbrowne]

The bigger one. It's heavier and more HP and not weathered. Don't idle around all day and the new tier 4 stuff shouldn't be a problem.

 

[freezypops]

Both are the same weight roughly.
Sorry your post is a bit confusing. Seems you say to get one and get the other for different reasons.

 

[Tompet]

This is kind of a continuation of your previous thread which would inform readers how you got to this point in your search. In any event, I think it comes down to whether you need the extra pto power and the size of logs you are skidding.

Based on your previous choices on the other thread either should do the job with the chores outlined. I do think you could polish the weathered paint on the 3800. Maybe someone else will chime in on the price of the 3800. Did you try any other Kubota dealers?

Good luck on your purchase decision.

 

[s219]

I think the L2501 will be underpowered in some situations. I know my L3200 is adequate with 32 HP, but there are cases where I wish I had even more power. To me, the L2501 would be going in the wrong direction.

 

[motownbrowne]

Both are the same weight roughly.
Sorry your post is a bit confusing. Seems you say to get one and get the other for different reasons.

Sorry for the confusion. I didn't realize they're the same weight. I guess I was dyslexic earlier when I read your original post. Of those 2, I'd buy the 3800. Of course, truth be told, I went to the dealership to buy a l3800 and came home with an MX4700, with which I am immensely happy.

 

[motownbrowne]

BTW, I was quoted 19,500 cash for the l3800 on December 28th, 2013. That was hst with loaded rears, SSQA, and no remotes.

 

[Fallon]

I think the L2501 will be underpowered in some situations. I know my L3200 is adequate with 32 HP, but there are cases where I wish I had even more power. To me, the L2501 would be going in the wrong direction.

Same, my L3200 is fine. I occasionally wish I had a L3800, but the $2k or $3k extra when I bought it wasn't with the extra HP then & still isn't worth it to me now. I can occasionally bog the engine mowing, but not often. Running the rototiller obviously is HP limited, but pretty much everything else I can recall doing is traction limited. More HP could mean plowing or box blading a bit faster, but would be of minimal value.

I'd be unhappy with less than the 32hp I have now. You probably would too.

 

[Fallon]

The L3x00 tractors are all the same frame, just different engines or tuning levels.

The L3x01 are almost the same as the 00s, 3pt is a hair smoother & obviously the tier 4 emissions junk, but nothing of any significant consequence.

Whatever you do, get a SSQA loader if you can. Im happy with my R4s, but R1s have a hair more traction. To be safe & effective you need to load the rear tires whatever you get.

 

[GManBart]

\Im happy with my R4s, but R1s have a hair more traction.

R1s have a boatload more traction than R4s....not even close as soon as the slightest bit of moisture is present.

A while back I was skidding logs out of a cleared lane that is a bit low, so it stays wet after any significant rain. I started out using my LS (R4047H) in 4x4 with R4 tires....I had the FEL and 1,300lb counterweight on the 3pt, for a total of around 6,500lbs. No matter what I did, I was sliding all over the place skidding those logs out. After the first two trips I got my Massey (2wd) which weighs around 4,500lbs, and has R1s on it...no counterweight, no loaded tires...nothing. It went through the same area with virtually not slipping at all, and was much, much better than the LS was....skidding the logs like they weren't there, and no messing around spinning tires, slinging mud all over the place.

R4s are great for loader use, are extremely puncture/cut resistant, have a smooth ride, don't tear up the ground too much, and last a long time, but they don't have anywhere near the traction that R1s do.