L series work light

[PHILIP8N]

The wire under the left fender for my L3710 is for the work light. If you get led lights the power draw is much much less and the led's are much more able to handle shock/vibration, as a plus they also have a much higher work life.

Plus they are about FOUR times the cost! Don't get me wrong, I would love to have a set, but I would probably break them before they burn out. Philip.

 

[luc]

It's important not to go overboard with accessory lighting, especially if all you have is the stock generator and no alternator upgrade.
The (single) Kubota work light is only 35W, or about 3A @ 12V.

An off-the-shelf dual fog light or driving light kit is going to put too much strain on the electrical system, and maybe even the pre-installed hot wire.

Assuming your other lights are on when the worklight(s) is on, that little generator has to run *everything* plus provide a charging current to the battery. If you overload the generator, the battery will try to make up the difference... which means it's discharging, not charging.

The "work light" fuse in the fuse panel should be a 10A ( at least it's what it is on my Grand L2900) and therefore you should have no problem running 2 work lights.
As a matter of fact, the connector on my tractor is designed for 2 lights since it is a double female connector.

I have 2 rear work lights connected to this wire with no issues

 

[Chilly807]

On the L3400 there's a set of wires under EACH fender, for that purpose (work lights). They're fused at 10 amps in the fuse box next to your left knee.

I spliced a switch into the main feed (yellow wire with red fleck on mine), and mounted the switch in a hole drilled through the dash. Make sure the switch will handle the current the lights will draw.

I mounted a 55w halogen flood on a piece of angle iron across the rear fenders. The rectangular flood didn't fit well on the fenders themselves.

Sean

 

[DiezNutz]

The "work light" fuse in the fuse panel should be a 10A ( at least it's what it is on my Grand L2900) and therefore you should have no problem running 2 work lights.
As a matter of fact, the connector on my tractor is designed for 2 lights since it is a double female connector.

I have 2 rear work lights connected to this wire with no issues

Congratulations, but there's more to it than just the fuse. See my comments about the charging system.

I posted my comment to raise awareness that it's something people should check out for *their* tractor, and not assume they can just mount the biggest and brightest lights they can find. That's all.

 

[PHILIP8N]

On my tractor, I have a 40 amp alternator. I added 18 amps of lights, plus there is around another 10 amps pulled by the tractors other lights and accessories. What I have noticed, if my tractor engine is not running above 1200 rpm, the alternator is not charging the battery. So in winter when I have all the lights on, I never let the engine run below 1200 rpm. Philip.

 

[luc]

Congratulations, but there's more to it than just the fuse. See my comments about the charging system.

I posted my comment to raise awareness that it's something people should check out for *their* tractor, and not assume they can just mount the biggest and brightest lights they can find. That's all.

Your point is well taken and i agree with you,

 

[jakobvh]

I'm looking at putting full nighttime running gear on my B3030, plus orange strobe and outboard running lights (legal requirement in Australia) to run on the roads at night. I'm thinking two forward and two rear facing lights mounted on the ROPS plus improved headlights (legally, inside edges must be min 600mm apart). Unless I can find a more reasonable solution I think I'll be running the wiring fully independent with relays, fuses and a bank of switches with the strobe wired to the work light wires on the back (so it's always on). Obviously this will require an alternator upgrade, but is there anything else anyone can suggest might be needed/areas to look into before I start?

 

[Nick Ryan]

I'm looking at putting full nighttime running gear on my B3030, plus orange strobe and outboard running lights (legal requirement in Australia) to run on the roads at night. I'm thinking two forward and two rear facing lights mounted on the ROPS plus improved headlights (legally, inside edges must be min 600mm apart). Unless I can find a more reasonable solution I think I'll be running the wiring fully independent with relays, fuses and a bank of switches with the strobe wired to the work light wires on the back (so it's always on). Obviously this will require an alternator upgrade, but is there anything else anyone can suggest might be needed/areas to look into before I start?

If you use led lights you will NOT need to upgrade your alternator, these LED's are so economical with the power, you can just fit them and forget them. They do cost more but have a huge life and are very robust, regards, Nick

 

[Notforhire]

I installed this strobe 4 Watt Vehicle Strobe Light | Strobe Fixtures | Super Bright LEDs plus some LED marker lights on my wife's horse drawn buggy. I run everything off 8 AA batteries.

As pointed out current draw is very low.

I intend on installing the strobe on my JD. It's a real attention getter.

Best, Bill