L series work light

/ L series work light #1  

Code54

Elite Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2005
Messages
4,423
Location
Putnam Co. West Virginia
Tractor
Kubota MX5100, Kubota BX25D,1957 Farmall Cub Lo-Boy Kubota KX91-3, BCS 853
Has anyone added a work light to an L series (I am trying to do it on a L3700)?
I noticed it has to leads under the left fender (looking from behind) and thought that maybe what they are there for but I maybe wrong. Does anyone know what that are for? I had an OLD tester and when I kicked everything on it appeared they conducted about 27V - could this be correct? I wanted to add a 12V work light so that could be a problem - any suggestions?
 
/ L series work light #2  
Parts book diagram for the optional worklight shows it connected in that area.
 
/ L series work light
  • Thread Starter
#3  
That is what I was hoping. Thanks for the information! Now to figure out if my old meter was wrong or it is 27V? Do they make a higher voltage work light perhaps?
 
/ L series work light #4  
I think your tester is wrong - or if it's analog, you may be reading the wrong scale. Test the 12Volt battery and see if it still shows 27V.
Cheers
Mike
 
/ L series work light #5  
The rear fender leads are 12V and are hot whenever the ignition is on. You will need a switch installed in the circuit if you do not want the lights on all the time. Any 12V work light should work. At around $16 a pair at Wal-mart you could add a pair inexpensively. FYI, driving lights will give you a narrower beam and more range, while fog lights will give you a broader pattern.
 
/ L series work light #6  
It's important not to go overboard with accessory lighting, especially if all you have is the stock generator and no alternator upgrade.
The (single) Kubota work light is only 35W, or about 3A @ 12V.

An off-the-shelf dual fog light or driving light kit is going to put too much strain on the electrical system, and maybe even the pre-installed hot wire.

Assuming your other lights are on when the worklight(s) is on, that little generator has to run *everything* plus provide a charging current to the battery. If you overload the generator, the battery will try to make up the difference... which means it's discharging, not charging.
 
/ L series work light #7  
The wiring setup under left fender can be use for added light.

I added extra back light on my L2800..use heat shrink for protection against wetness etc.

If wire right when you turn the key off it will shut light off..handy;)
 
/ L series work light #8  
I ran an appropriatly sized hot wire fused at the starter to a pair of switches on my left side control panel. Everything else is pretty straight forward. Philip.
 

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/ L series work light #9  
I used the wires under the fender to drive a switch connected to a relay to handle the real power coming straight from the front end. I've got two lighted switches, 1 of the 2 front facing lights and 1 for the 2 rear facing lights. Those little wires under the fender couldn't handle that much pull.
 
/ L series work light #10  
The wire under the left fender for my L3710 is for the work light. If you get led lights the power draw is much much less and the led's are much more able to handle shock/vibration, as a plus they also have a much higher work life.
 
/ L series work light #11  
The wire under the left fender for my L3710 is for the work light. If you get led lights the power draw is much much less and the led's are much more able to handle shock/vibration, as a plus they also have a much higher work life.

Plus they are about FOUR times the cost! Don't get me wrong, I would love to have a set, but I would probably break them before they burn out. Philip.
 
/ L series work light #12  
It's important not to go overboard with accessory lighting, especially if all you have is the stock generator and no alternator upgrade.
The (single) Kubota work light is only 35W, or about 3A @ 12V.

An off-the-shelf dual fog light or driving light kit is going to put too much strain on the electrical system, and maybe even the pre-installed hot wire.

Assuming your other lights are on when the worklight(s) is on, that little generator has to run *everything* plus provide a charging current to the battery. If you overload the generator, the battery will try to make up the difference... which means it's discharging, not charging.



The "work light" fuse in the fuse panel should be a 10A ( at least it's what it is on my Grand L2900) and therefore you should have no problem running 2 work lights.
As a matter of fact, the connector on my tractor is designed for 2 lights since it is a double female connector.

I have 2 rear work lights connected to this wire with no issues
 
/ L series work light #13  
On the L3400 there's a set of wires under EACH fender, for that purpose (work lights). They're fused at 10 amps in the fuse box next to your left knee.

I spliced a switch into the main feed (yellow wire with red fleck on mine), and mounted the switch in a hole drilled through the dash. Make sure the switch will handle the current the lights will draw.

I mounted a 55w halogen flood on a piece of angle iron across the rear fenders. The rectangular flood didn't fit well on the fenders themselves.

DSC00047.jpg

DSC00044.jpg


Sean
 
/ L series work light #14  
The "work light" fuse in the fuse panel should be a 10A ( at least it's what it is on my Grand L2900) and therefore you should have no problem running 2 work lights.
As a matter of fact, the connector on my tractor is designed for 2 lights since it is a double female connector.

I have 2 rear work lights connected to this wire with no issues
Congratulations, but there's more to it than just the fuse. See my comments about the charging system.

I posted my comment to raise awareness that it's something people should check out for *their* tractor, and not assume they can just mount the biggest and brightest lights they can find. That's all.
 
/ L series work light #15  
On my tractor, I have a 40 amp alternator. I added 18 amps of lights, plus there is around another 10 amps pulled by the tractors other lights and accessories. What I have noticed, if my tractor engine is not running above 1200 rpm, the alternator is not charging the battery. So in winter when I have all the lights on, I never let the engine run below 1200 rpm. Philip.
 
/ L series work light #16  
Congratulations, but there's more to it than just the fuse. See my comments about the charging system.

I posted my comment to raise awareness that it's something people should check out for *their* tractor, and not assume they can just mount the biggest and brightest lights they can find. That's all.

Your point is well taken and i agree with you,
 
/ L series work light #17  
I'm looking at putting full nighttime running gear on my B3030, plus orange strobe and outboard running lights (legal requirement in Australia) to run on the roads at night. I'm thinking two forward and two rear facing lights mounted on the ROPS plus improved headlights (legally, inside edges must be min 600mm apart). Unless I can find a more reasonable solution I think I'll be running the wiring fully independent with relays, fuses and a bank of switches with the strobe wired to the work light wires on the back (so it's always on). Obviously this will require an alternator upgrade, but is there anything else anyone can suggest might be needed/areas to look into before I start?
 
/ L series work light #18  
I'm looking at putting full nighttime running gear on my B3030, plus orange strobe and outboard running lights (legal requirement in Australia) to run on the roads at night. I'm thinking two forward and two rear facing lights mounted on the ROPS plus improved headlights (legally, inside edges must be min 600mm apart). Unless I can find a more reasonable solution I think I'll be running the wiring fully independent with relays, fuses and a bank of switches with the strobe wired to the work light wires on the back (so it's always on). Obviously this will require an alternator upgrade, but is there anything else anyone can suggest might be needed/areas to look into before I start?

If you use led lights you will NOT need to upgrade your alternator, these LED's are so economical with the power, you can just fit them and forget them. They do cost more but have a huge life and are very robust, regards, Nick
 

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