Buying Advice Kubota M7060

[Ed27]

I know there is no such think as buying too much tractor, lol, but please tell me if you think the tractor I want to buy fits my needs. I think I am ready to pull the trigger on a Kubota M7060, ROPS, 4WD, 12 speed, FEL, and Land Pride RCR2672. I just bought 50 vacant acres, about 35 acres pasture and 15 woods. The pasture has been neglected for many years and I will need to first clear it with a forestry mulcher. I will eventually build a house, barn, and detached garage. I will have some rotational pastures for 6 horses, outdoor arena, garden plot, and fruit trees. The tractor will be used for typical farm work and lots of mowing. I will eventually (last on the list) clear and maintain some trails in the woods. I am not new to using a tractor or taking care of horses, etc.

Thanks,
Ed

 

[TripleR]

In my opinion the M7060 would be a good choice, but I use an RCR2672 with my L5740HSTC and it works great. We pull a 10' cutter with our M8540HDC and would use a minimum of 8' twin spindle rotary on the M7060.

I love my L5740HSTC, but if I could have only one tractor, it would be a minimum of M7060, though I prefer a 80HP the minimum; had a 70HP for a week or two and traded it in as our land is hilly and we road our tractors and the hills just dragged the 70HP down to a crawl.

The good news is there are lots a combinations that will be just right, good luck.

 

[Tractorable]

My only advice would be if you’re going to be doing lots of mowing in East Tennessee is to get a cab. Protect yourself from the heat, dust, pollen, blazing sun, stinging insects, prickers, and flying debris.

 

[Ed27]

I thought really hard about a cab. I really prefer an open station. Not to mention the $8-9K in my pocket. However, I'm sure there will be days in the future with 95 degrees and 90% humidity where I will question my choice!

 

[big bubba]

I really prefer an open station. Ed27

roger that, esp when on & off the machine a lot, & in the woods. i'll save the creature comforts for the vehicle & home. the savings will go a long way for equipment
also feel open station has more visibility & overall maneuverability for utility work
had a M7040 for a while. consider hyd top link & extra remotes
good choice, will meet your needs then some

 

[oosik]

I have 80 acres and a mile long gravel driveway. My land is open prairie type with stands of ancient Ponderosa pine. It's in NE WA state and is called the channeled scablands.

I have an open station M6040. I have a very HD grapple - Land Pride SGC1560 on the FEL and a Rhino 950 on the three point.

I'm sure you will find that the M7060 will match your needs just great.

I got the open station M6040 for several reasons - I enjoy being out in the fresh air. When we get our hot weather - there is almost zero humidity. The money saved has purchased a couple implements. I do no mowing with a rotary cutter. If I did mow - I would have gotten a cabbed unit.

And - I still have all my Eddie Bauer down cold wx gear from my years in Alaska. Works just great on an open station tractor.

My only suggestion Be sure that the rear blade you get is heavy enough. I had a Land Pride 3596 @ 575#( just from memory). It did snow just great. It was not heavy enough to "penetrate" my driveway in the summer. My driveway turns to concrete in the summer. The Rhino 950 is 96" wide and weighs 1100#. It DEFINITELY gets the job done in the summer.

OH - another thought. You might want to have your rear tires filled( added traction ) and have them set out wide ( stability ). There are many choices when having the rear tires filled - RimGuard, RV antifreeze, windshield washer fluid. Don't go with salt solution.

Consider getting a hydraulic top link. Makes life so much easier when dealing with ground engagement implements.

 

[Ed27]

Thanks for all the great feedback guys, I appreciate it. I think I will pass on filling the tires since there will be a FEL on the front and a 1,046 lb rotary cutter on the back. The hydraulic top link is a great idea!

 

[oosik]

If you can safely operate the tractor w/o filling the tires - so much the better. I've not had a moments problem with the Rim Guard in my rear tires. But the potential is always there. You can always do that at a later date. Filled tires does nothing to relieve the weight on the front axle. Filled tires is like - wide rear tire stance - it improves stability. The rotary cutter will relieve some of the weight on the front axle. Think of a titer-totter. The pivot point on the titer-totter is equal to the axle on the rear tires. The more weight on the 3-point ( a heavy rear blade or rotary cutter ) the less weight on the front axle. My HD Rhino rear blade is always on the 3-point. Unless I'm using another implement.

However - I really don't think it makes a whole lot of difference for a utility tractor like you are getting. That front axle had better be able to handle the max load presented by the FEL, bucket & load without added offset weight on the 3-point.

Not only is the hydraulic top link great for "on-the-go" adjustments of ground contact implements - it makes hooking anything up a tad bit easier. Rather than twist-twist-twist - - just tweak the hydraulic control lever for in or out. Granted, it's a lot easier with an open station tractor like mine.

 

[Ed27]

...and the M7060 comes standard with one rear remote, so might as well take advantage of it with a hydraulic top link for running the rotary cutter.

 

[TripleR]

We have a hydraulic top link on every tractor we can without a lot of extra trouble.

We have three or four older tractors used for bush hogging that don't have fluid in the tires, everything else has wiper fluid and of those, one has cast centers and another added wheel weights. It's not unusual to get a flat, so we don't use rimguard. A properly weighted tractor sure helps us, but may not for everybody.