The part # for the kit is TA040-98001. It comes with an instruction sheet for installation. Basically what it is, is a tube with an o-ring on both ends. I'll try to explain what to do:
Loosen the clamps on the front drive shaft tube and slide the two halves of the tube together to gain access to the front drive shaft. You will see two splined couplers one for the front and one for the back of the shaft. There's a roll pin in each coupler. Rotate the shaft (you will have to lift the front axle off the ground) so you can drive the roll pins out without hitting an obstruction. Once the pins are out slide the couplers away from the splined shaft in the trans and front axle and the front drive shaft can be removed (the couplers may be a little stubborn so don't be afraid to "persuade" them a little). Once the front driveshaft is removed install the spacer on the shaft coming out of the clutch housing and slide it towards the back of the machine. At this point the spacer will be butted against the seals that have backed out. Re-install one of the couplers on the spline and gently tap the coupler against the spacer to re-seat the seals. when the roll pin hole lines up with the end of the shaft (maybe just a hair past) you know the seals are seated. Remove the coupler and the spacer. Now make sure everything is in neutral, set the parking brake, and latch the clutch pedal in the disengaged position and start the tractor. Throw some saftey glasses on (goggles are better)
Remove the weep plug from the botom of the clutch housing and place a drain pan under where the shaft splines come out. And go nuts with a couple of cans of brake clean with the spray tube installed in the nozzle. This should do a pretty could job of getting most of the oil out of the housing and off of the clutch disc. Now if you have an air compressor blow the housing out (not really that necessary as brake clean evaporates quite well, just speeds up the process for leak checking). Let it run for a bit to make sure the leak has been re-sealed. Now install one of the o-rings from the kit on the rear shaft and slide the spacer back on. Once the spacer is seated against the seals install the other o-ring and re-install the drive shaft with the couplers. Basically the rear coupler pushes against the o-rings and the spacer and prevents the seals from working there way out again. Put everything back together in reverse order and drive away. If this "technique" does'nt work your really not losing anything as you would have to tear it down and replace the same parts anyway. So it's worth a shot.........Oh, keep in mind when putting the roll pins back in, they fit between the shaft ends, that's what keeps the shaft from falling out.
