Kubota fwd grinding in front axle and not pulling

[5030]

depends entirely on the year of the unit.

 

[D2Cat]

Sometimes the rear roll pin is a bit difficult to get out because you don't have much room. I remove the flux coating on a 5/32 welding rod and use it as a punch.

 

[jjeff]

Oh my lands, I hope this is covered under the warranty cause it gave me a brain freeze just watching his repair and explanation.....

Warranty? I believe the last L2900s were made in the late 90s.

 

[5030]

In reality it is a very easy job (other than laying on a creeper and working overhead and if the tractor is cruddy under there, you get a face full of crud, a non issue with mine as I keep the engines and tin spotless all the time. I'm **** about crud on an engine and the crud insulates the motor from cooling anyway.

You can eat of both of mine under the hood or the tin. My Kubota mechanics likes it too. He don't get cruddy working on a nasty tractor.

I do contract hay for a couple people and I like the equipment looking sharp. Presents a good image for me.

 

[5030]

His YT video is typical of most YT vids. Done by amateur's and looks harder than it really is. Like I said, it's easy and painless job and if you don't want to deal with a roll pin, use a cotter key instead. All the does is maintain the alignment of the of the spline collar in relationship to the drive shaft. No load on the pin at all.

 

[D2Cat]

The benefit of the roll pin is it will stay in the hole. A cotter key, if it doesn't stay in place could possibly rub against nearby metal and then what?

 

[repete]

Have someone with some experience determine by sound where the issue is. Do not start taking stuff apart without a diagnosis. If you lift the front end off the ground and have someone spin a front tire when it is in 4WD and NOT RUNNING but in gear (so you will be "locking" the input side of the front drive shaft) you may well hear where the grinding is coming from.