Kubota BX23 won't turn off...new twist

[Bill_BX23]

I have a 2005 BX23 that lives outside. It has developed the common problem where it won't shut off when you turn the key off. But there is a new twist to the problem that I have not been able to find in any of the discussion on the subject. When I manually shut down the engine using the lever on the fuel stop solenoid, I can hear the fuel pump running and the hour meter clicking. There is still power to the circuit (and will eventually run the battery down). The only way to kill the power is to pull the accessories fuse (2nd fuse down on the fuse block).

Things I've done:
1. Removed and tested the ignition switch...ohms out in every position. Problem persists even if the ignition switch is removed from the circuit.
2. Removed and tested the timer relay.
3. Electrically disconnected the fuel pump.
4. All 3 lights switches are removed (they were corroded and haven't been replaced yet).
5. Removed and electrically tested all fuses (not just visually). The 4 fuses in the fuse block as well as 2 large fuses under the hood.

Today I plan on removing and testing the fuel stop solenoid itself. I'm not sure where else to look...I'm leaning towards a problem in the wiring harness. I did find a skinned wire on the ignition switch from rubbing against the idle control lever.

I haven't looked at the starter yet (I just noticed that the 30A slow blow fuse under the hood goes to the starter). It is finicky about starting...you sometimes have to jiggle the PTO lever, the range gear shift lever (rabbit & turtle), the HST pedal, and hold your mouth right to get it to start.

Any thoughts or ideas as to what to check next?

Also, I've read about replacing the lights switches with marine grade switches. Has anybody done this? What brand/model of switches did you use?

Thanks

Bill.

 

[CincyFlyer]

You will need to do a full circuit test while it's in the "stuck" condition. If you don't have a schematic, get one; you can see the common feed to the hour meter and fuel pump, and see if something is backfeeding.

 

[Bill_BX23]

I finally figured it out. After testing most of the electrical components on the tractor, I decided to take a different approach. I started at the battery and followed the red wire. I cut all of the tape and pulled off the flexible conduit as I went.

I found a heat shrink that was failing and letting voltage through from an adjacent uninsulated splice that was taped together with the heat shrinked splice. Once I pulled these 2 splices apart, the problem stopped

 

[ruffdog]

What a mess. I guess K is not worried about weatherproofing their wire connections.

 

[TheMadOne]

It made it 13 years in what looks like very sandy and probably somewhat salty conditions(going by the rust in the pictures), while stored outside. I wouldn't call that terrible. Nothing lasts forever without some maintenance.

 

[Gordon Gould]

You did good !!!! Those kinds of things are hard to find.

gg

 

[ruffdog]

The practice of using shrink wrap on two adjacent wires still allows moisture to enter the connection in the space between them. Using the shrink tubing with the added sealer would help this issue.

 

[Cougsfan]

Can you come over to help the next time I have an electrical problem, Bill? I am impressed with how you found that problem and solved it. I'd still be scratching my head.