texaskennedys
New member
Hi all -
I've been a lurker here for years, and have had many of my questions answered without having to write my own. So, for that... "Thank y'all!" Today I ran into something that has me scratching my head though. I hope someone here can help me out.
A week ago, I tried to start my BX2230. I heard all the "popping" like it normally does, but no effort to turn over. Good voltage on the battery - I even tried it with jumper cables to make sure it wasn't a high-voltage dead battery. Made sure it was in neutral, made sure the PTO wasn't engaged, made sure I had my rump in the seat. Nothing. Good lights, just no turning over.
Went ahead and ordered a replacement starter. Then I started reading the forums. Before I took the old starter off, I checked the contacts for the seat, the transmission selector, and the PTO clutch. Cleaned 'em all... they all looked good to begin with though.
Went ahead and exposed the engine. Tried to short the starter - got spark, but no action. Went ahead and replaced the starter with the new one. Tried to start it - got the same "popping" like it normally does, but no effort to turn over. I was discouraged.
THEN I SHORTED THE NEW STARTER. Started immediately, and hummed like a kitten. Turned it off and tried to start it with the switch. After spending another 20 minutes checking the fuses for the starter (30 amp slow burn), 15 amp solenoid, and such, I remembered it won't start until I plug the solenoid wire back in (I had removed it to short it). I reconnected the wire, turned the ignition to start, and it started immediately.
I WAS SO PROUD! I turned it off and went in and had some dinner with the family. When I came back out - same old problem. "Popping" and lights were fine. No action from the starter. I shorted it again, and it started immediately. I reconnected the solenoid wire (immediately this time!) and turned off the tractor at the ignition. I restarted it at the ignition. Worked perfect.
So, it seems like I've got some kind of electrical problem. Not sure how to isolate it. Need some recommendations. By the way - in case it matters, when I had the ignition switch out checking it, I checked the continuity between the poles. In "RUN", there is almost zero resistance across two of the terminals - everything else is infinite resistance. In "START", the same terminals come up to about 10 Ohms, and the other "positive" terminal shows some variation - sometimes about 65 to 70 Ohms, sometimes about 120 to 130 Ohms. The thing starts if I start it "soon" after it has been running, so I don't know if the ignition switch information is important or not... figured I would include it though.
Any help you could provide, I'd be much obliged.
Thanks-
Curt
I've been a lurker here for years, and have had many of my questions answered without having to write my own. So, for that... "Thank y'all!" Today I ran into something that has me scratching my head though. I hope someone here can help me out.
A week ago, I tried to start my BX2230. I heard all the "popping" like it normally does, but no effort to turn over. Good voltage on the battery - I even tried it with jumper cables to make sure it wasn't a high-voltage dead battery. Made sure it was in neutral, made sure the PTO wasn't engaged, made sure I had my rump in the seat. Nothing. Good lights, just no turning over.
Went ahead and ordered a replacement starter. Then I started reading the forums. Before I took the old starter off, I checked the contacts for the seat, the transmission selector, and the PTO clutch. Cleaned 'em all... they all looked good to begin with though.
Went ahead and exposed the engine. Tried to short the starter - got spark, but no action. Went ahead and replaced the starter with the new one. Tried to start it - got the same "popping" like it normally does, but no effort to turn over. I was discouraged.
THEN I SHORTED THE NEW STARTER. Started immediately, and hummed like a kitten. Turned it off and tried to start it with the switch. After spending another 20 minutes checking the fuses for the starter (30 amp slow burn), 15 amp solenoid, and such, I remembered it won't start until I plug the solenoid wire back in (I had removed it to short it). I reconnected the wire, turned the ignition to start, and it started immediately.
I WAS SO PROUD! I turned it off and went in and had some dinner with the family. When I came back out - same old problem. "Popping" and lights were fine. No action from the starter. I shorted it again, and it started immediately. I reconnected the solenoid wire (immediately this time!) and turned off the tractor at the ignition. I restarted it at the ignition. Worked perfect.
So, it seems like I've got some kind of electrical problem. Not sure how to isolate it. Need some recommendations. By the way - in case it matters, when I had the ignition switch out checking it, I checked the continuity between the poles. In "RUN", there is almost zero resistance across two of the terminals - everything else is infinite resistance. In "START", the same terminals come up to about 10 Ohms, and the other "positive" terminal shows some variation - sometimes about 65 to 70 Ohms, sometimes about 120 to 130 Ohms. The thing starts if I start it "soon" after it has been running, so I don't know if the ignition switch information is important or not... figured I would include it though.
Any help you could provide, I'd be much obliged.
Thanks-
Curt