Kubota bx snowblower comparison

[Ronhel]

Hello everyone, I presently own a bx2370 tractor, I bought used a few years ago with 64 hours. I presently has about 100 hours.
It primarily a grass cutter and snowblower tractor.
The snowblower I am using is from my bx1500. It is a bx2750b, serial #2502496 and a bx2711 serial # 2408584 quick attach. A new longer drive shaft and a longer jack shaft in the quick attach was require to work with the bx2370.

My little dilema, my existing blower works well, need sandblasting and paint, new bearings as part of this rebuild.

I have found a few used, much newer, cosmetically beautiful blowers and Quick attach for a bx2370 for about $2000.

The set I am most interested in bx5450 serial #21509552 and Quick attach bx2714b serial # 215140007.

Is there any advantage, using the newer snowblower, better blowing, farther throw, less clogging. Or just rebuild my existing??

I would appreciate your input.
Thank you
Ron

 

[Dave M7040]

Ron

The information I am going to share with you may or may not apply to your particular blower, new or old.

The light weight Kubota blowers, same as the John Deere ones and made by the same company, are about the same as a big walk behind in their design. They need to be treated with respect and not like an industrial unit.

The gearbox in the middle of the two auger halves is vulnerable to failure. Shear bolt design and shear bolt manufacturing have been bouncing around.

There are two shear bolt arrangements. One where the shear bolt goes through the fan shaft and the updated one where there is a flange and the shear bolt is in the flange.

Sometimes the auger shear bolts have grooves machined in them to weaken them and the same design bolt must be used to avoid gearbox damage.

In my photo, the flange is black. This was an upgrade mid season. New designs probably have the flange but it will be orange.

Dave M7040

 

[Ronhel]

Thank you Dave

I did not know about the shear bolt design change on the impeller .
Some of the newer models have a 4 blade impeller versus mine which is a 3 blade.

On mine I have broke many auger shear bolts, but only 1 impeller shear bolt in 15 plus years.

 

[Dave M7040]

If you have an old but durable one, I would suggest keeping it going.

The designers are always trying to reduce manufacturing costs.

Dave M7040

 

[diesel85]

Very good information.

 

[Ronhel]

Thank you for your thoughts.
Ron

 

[moship]

Dave M7040,

The new black piece is similar to what was used on older blowers.

Another option I did to this style blower when rebuilding a used one, was to add a zerk (grease) fitting to the fan. On the unit I purchased used, the fan was rusted to the input shaft rendering the shear bolt useless. It's true the fan rides on two bronze bearing against the input shaft, but over the years enough corrosion built up in the area between the bearing to cause a problem. Pumping grease into the fan helps displace moisture over the long haul.

Also added additional (2 more) grease fittings to each auger. This way grease can be pumped into the center of the auger and then near the ends to help prevent long term corrosion. With only one grease fitting it is hard for grease to travel the long length of the auger. Especially during winter temps.

 

[Ronhel]

Thanks Dave
I like the idea of adding grease fittings, perfect time during a rebuild.
I may investigate adding a 4 blade inpeller, with the newer shear pin location, assuming the dimensions work.

Disassembly will begin next week after the tractor is switched over the lawn cutting.

Any thoughts on paint for the blower?
I am heading to single stage urethane mixed kubota orange. Will sandblast everything and urethane prime all the bare metal.
Thank you again.
Ron

 

[art]

On the shear bolts a little note. I recommend removing them out of season and spinning the shafts on the stubs of all snowblowers, brush hogs and any other type of mechanism including backing off the slip clutches if used and spinning them separately coming into the season. I have seen the damage from both being dry or rusted from lack of maintenance or the plus side of not having sheared them.

 

[looch]

Another tip on the rebuild: the chute "corners" get pitted quite badly. Grinding them out would remove 1/2 the material thickness. Instead, I lined my chute with some 3/16" ABS sheet I just happened to have lying around - fastened with stainless countersunk screws. Huge difference.