Kubota 3PL is too tight.

[Thetractorfiddler]

Hi all, new member here. I recently picked up a 2nd hand kubota L245 for some yard work and firebreaks. The big problem is the darn 3PL is so tight it can't lower and STRUGGLES to raise.

It's not the hydraulic release knob by the seat, that was the first thing I checked (after a tertiary google) so I pulled the top off and had a look, the piston and 'crank?' Both move freely and easily but the shaft the arms hang on is INSANELY tight. As in, with the whole top section sitting on my bench top, I can't move it with anything less then a big hammer. I'm wondering if it could be corrosion in the tube or is it possible the control arms are just pushed together too tight?

 

[Mike1955]

Could they have put to much weight on it at one time and maybe warped or bent the part the lift arms attach to?

 

[Thetractorfiddler]

Could they have put to much weight on it at one time and maybe warped or bent the part the lift arms attach to?

That's possible, unfortunately I know nothing of this old girls history. I tried getting the arms off the shaft but to no avail. The bolts that clamp down on the shift seem to be corroded in and won't release. I didn't want to but I may have to use my oxy/acetylene torch to heat them up and break em loose.

 

[Mike1955]

That's possible, unfortunately I know nothing of this old girls history. I tried getting the arms off the shaft but to no avail. The bolts that clamp down on the shift seem to be corroded in and won't release. I didn't want to but I may have to use my oxy/acetylene torch to heat them up and break em loose.

From what you said, it’s free everywhere else. Those thing are probably on a spline shaft. Not much way to soak them or put a puller on them. I have never seen that issue before. Sorry I can’t benefit sometimes it generates ideas to just discuss it

 

[Thetractorfiddler]

Update,

I've put a rotary hoe/tiller on the back and it's heavy enough to make it raise and drop. I'm hoping if it's just corrosion it'll free up a bit with use. If it's bent who knows. Might just save some penny's and buy a new bobcat or something later

 

[CalG]

Hi all, new member here. I recently picked up a 2nd hand kubota L245 for some yard work and firebreaks. The big problem is the darn 3PL is so tight it can't lower and STRUGGLES to raise.

It's not the hydraulic release knob by the seat, that was the first thing I checked (after a tertiary google) so I pulled the top off and had a look, the piston and 'crank?' Both move freely and easily but the shaft the arms hang on is INSANELY tight. As in, with the whole top section sitting on my bench top, I can't move it with anything less then a big hammer. I'm wondering if it could be corrosion in the tube or is it possible the control arms are just pushed together too tight?

Hmm... No greasers?

Some one dropped the ball.
I would consider drilling .tapping and adding greasers.

 

[Thetractorfiddler]

Hmm... No greasers?

Some one dropped the ball.
I would consider drilling .tapping and adding greasers.

Thats a great idea thanks. The one problem being it's a splined shaft right through except the contact points are some sort of sleeve or bush. Though I suppose if the bush jams up on the shaft it can just turn on the grease in between the bush and housing.

I must agree kubota did kinda drop the ball on a few of the design choices. Ie, to drop the engine oil there are 2 sump bungs, the transmission has 3 bungs... the steering box runs in oil but you appear to have to remove the dash to fill it... just odd choices everywhere.

 

[Mike1955]

That’s the new world. Use to be simple

 

[ptsg]

The entire rockshaft housing is open to the inside of the transmission, so when the tractor is working, it splashes oil all over the splined shaft. I imagine the PTO gears may also have a big part on this.

Now, if the previous owner didn't use the 3 pt or PTO for a long time (some owners never actually use it somehow), I can see how moisture might gather up there and start rusting things out. Also, if the tractor happens to have been sitting a lot.

 

[5030]

steering box runs in oil but you appear to have to remove the dash to fill it... just odd choices everywhere.

No, it don't. The 'steering box' as you call it is an orbital valve that uses hydraulic fluid to actuate the steering. You don't even want to fiddle with it as there are no consumer rebuild kits and it's quite expensive to replace.

Far as the multiple fluid drains, they are there so you can drain the lower parts of the gearcase and my tractors have a split sump with 2 drain plugs because the FWA driveshaft runs between them. All that way for a good reason and sound engineering as well.

Far as the rockshaft is concerned (what you are referring to btw, don't be drilling the casting and adding 'greaser' fittings to it or you will most likely destroy it. The inability of the upper arms not to raise and lower properly is most likely the needle valve that controls the rise and fall rate has some crud in it. That is what the knob attaches to. Remove the needle valve, clean it and replace it and I suspect your issues will be gone. While you are at it, change the gearbox / hydrostat fluid as well and use Kubota SUDT or SUDT2 and not the cheap Tractor Supply junk either. Kubota hydrostats are very touchy when it comes to fluids. Change the filters as well and if there is a strainer on the hard line, remove and clean it as well.

 

[5030]

I suggest you download the shop manual and / or owners manual from Kubota Books.com or from Manuals.Lib That way you will actually know what you can do and not what you think you can do.

 

[ptsg]

No, it don't. The 'steering box' as you call it is an orbital valve that uses hydraulic fluid to actuate the steering. You don't even want to fiddle with it as there are no consumer rebuild kits and it's quite expensive to replace.

Far as the multiple fluid drains, they are there so you can drain the lower parts of the gearcase and my tractors have a split sump with 2 drain plugs because the FWA driveshaft runs between them. All that way for a good reason and sound engineering as well.

Far as the rockshaft is concerned (what you are referring to btw, don't be drilling the casting and adding 'greaser' fittings to it or you will most likely destroy it. The inability of the upper arms not to raise and lower properly is most likely the needle valve that controls the rise and fall rate has some crud in it. That is what the knob attaches to. Remove the needle valve, clean it and replace it and I suspect your issues will be gone. While you are at it, change the gearbox / hydrostat fluid as well and use Kubota SUDT or SUDT2 and not the cheap Tractor Supply junk either. Kubota hydrostats are very touchy when it comes to fluids. Change the filters as well and if there is a strainer on the hard line, remove and clean it as well.

A Kubota L245 doesn't have an orbital valve. Just a regular steering box.

 

[5030]

I stand corrected then.. He still needs to download the manuals regardless.

 

[Thetractorfiddler]

I stand corrected then.. He still needs to download the manuals regardless.

Tha ks for all your suggestions. After playing with it for a few days I've found running the pto frees everything up a little more each day so I'd say it's just crud. It can lower with my body weight now. I have both the owners manual and workshop manuals downloaded to my phone.

I appreciate all the help, this little tractor has ignited a passion Inside I didn't know I had. I've spent 3 days straight changing every filter, fixing every broken bolt and stud, bent panel and broken wire. Having a blast. I just have to wait for the replacement pto shaft for my hoe turns up and then I'll be digging some dirt.

I have the 2x4 model, I found it interesting the sump is the same on the l245 and l245dt. Probably to save time designing a different sump and factory costs.

 

[Thetractorfiddler]

The entire rockshaft housing is open to the inside of the transmission, so when the tractor is working, it splashes oil all over the splined shaft. I imagine the PTO gears may also have a big part on this.

Now, if the previous owner didn't use the 3 pt or PTO for a long time (some owners never actually use it somehow), I can see how moisture might gather up there and start rusting things out. Also, if the tractor happens to have been sitting a lot.

Very solid advice thanks. I held off on drilling grease holes in the cast because I wanted to see if I could source a whole new top section first encase I broke something. Glad I did as running the pto for a while whilst raising and lowering the 3pl really smooted it out

 

[ptsg]

Very solid advice thanks. I held off on drilling grease holes in the cast because I wanted to see if I could source a whole new top section first encase I broke something. Glad I did as running the pto for a while whilst raising and lowering the 3pl really smooted it out

Nice! Easy fix! Thanks for the update.

This is why it's important to use all the functions of a tractor every once in a while, even if you don't have use for it.

A good example of this is the range and 4wd levers. A lot of folks receive their new tractor, put in low range or medium range on those HST transmission, leave it there forever, then one day when they need to use it, all the linkages are frozen and the levers won't move. Same for 4WD.

 

[5030]

Tha ks for all your suggestions. After playing with it for a few days I've found running the pto frees everything up a little more each day so I'd say it's just crud. It can lower with my body weight now. I have both the owners manual and workshop manuals downloaded to my phone.

I appreciate all the help, this little tractor has ignited a passion Inside I didn't know I had. I've spent 3 days straight changing every filter, fixing every broken bolt and stud, bent panel and broken wire. Having a blast. I just have to wait for the replacement pto shaft for my hoe turns up and then I'll be digging some dirt.

I have the 2x4 model, I found it interesting the sump is the same on the l245 and l245dt. Probably to save time designing a different sump and factory costs.

Even the F20 series front mount mower I bought has a split sump on it.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

No, it don't. The 'steering box' as you call it is an orbital valve that uses hydraulic fluid to actuate the steering. You don't even want to fiddle with it as there are no consumer rebuild kits and it's quite expensive to replace.

Far as the multiple fluid drains, they are there so you can drain the lower parts of the gearcase and my tractors have a split sump with 2 drain plugs because the FWA driveshaft runs between them. All that way for a good reason and sound engineering as well.

Far as the rockshaft is concerned (what you are referring to btw, don't be drilling the casting and adding 'greaser' fittings to it or you will most likely destroy it. The inability of the upper arms not to raise and lower properly is most likely the needle valve that controls the rise and fall rate has some crud in it. That is what the knob attaches to. Remove the needle valve, clean it and replace it and I suspect your issues will be gone. While you are at it, change the gearbox / hydrostat fluid as well and use Kubota SUDT or SUDT2 and not the cheap Tractor Supply junk either. Kubota hydrostats are very touchy when it comes to fluids. Change the filters as well and if there is a strainer on the hard line, remove and clean it as well.

When I bought my B2301 a few years ago, the salesman specifically cautioned me about using anything but Kubota hydro fluid. I could use other brands for the engine, but NOT the hydro/hydraulic system.

 

[jyoutz]

That’s the new world. Use to be simple

The L245 can’t really be described as new.