Kioti RX7320 Temp Gauge Not Working

[WesternMN]

I've got a almost new RX7320 PC (powershuttle cab). Had it out moving snow today at about -5 degrees and the temp gauge never moved. The coolant level was good, heater worked properly and nothing got hot, no warning lights so I'm guessing I've got a lose connection or possibly a faulty sender.

Does this gauge measure engine temp or coolant temp? (I'm assuming engine) Anybody know where the temp sender is and where I might look for a lose connection? Don't want to haul it to the dealer if it's something simple.

 

[George2615]

Usually the sensor is screwed into the block so the probe is in the coolant jacket. Since you checked the coolant and the heater worked its probably a wire between the sensor and gauge. If the wire checks OK it could be the sensor or the gauge.

 

[WesternMN]

So I hopped in the tractor and headed down the road to my brothers house. Once I was running in high gear at PTO speed for about a half mile the gauge came up and settled between the dots like it's supposed to. Once I slowed down and started moving snow, it slowly dropped back down to nothing.

So evidently its working, just running too cold to move the needle in this sub zero weather. Does that mean a stuck thermostat or is this normal and maybe just a symptom of a very narrow window of temp to move the needle?

 

[George2615]

T stat could be stuck open. Just last week I replaced a radiator and installed a new T stat on a JD 2305. Tractor is used to clear sidewalks at a commercial bldg. Salt used on the walks eventually ate through the lower portion (fins) of the radiator and it had stated leaking. When I pulled the stat the center pin the disc floats on was bent. Don't know how it got bent because its never been out of the tractor or replaced before. Fortunately it bent when the stat was wide open. Yours may be just due to the cold weather as you say. Keep an eye on your gauge and I'd pull and check or replace the T stat in the spring if you have no further problems.

 

[RNeumann]

Diesels need a good load to generate enough heat to move the gauge. At -5 other tractor manufactures (I don't know on Kioti) would tell you to cover the grill/block the radiator to get the engine up to temperature. This would help with the cab heat too.
I'm voting this is normal and covering the radiator will bring and keep things in the normal range.

 

[WesternMN]

Diesels need a good load to generate enough heat to move the gauge. At -5 other tractor manufactures (I don't know on Kioti) would tell you to cover the grill/block the radiator to get the engine up to temperature. This would help with the cab heat too.
I'm voting this is normal and covering the radiator will bring and keep things in the normal range.

Heater was working pretty good considering how cold it is. Hopefully I won't be moving snow in sub zero temps too often this winter! It's supposed to get down to-30 tonight so that should be fun!

 

[holeycow]

Cover the rad.

Almost all diesels run cold in cold temperatures unless they are working hard.

 

[JLinder]

My dad's RX takes a while to move the temp needle into the "normal" zone unless there's a decent load on it. It will also produce decent heat in the cab long before moving the needle into the "normal" operation zone. I haven't checked the actual coolant temp vs the gauge reading but I'm guessing is has to do with the calibration of the gauge and how it reads the sensor.

 

[Looking4new]

My CK27 does the same thing. Once it is blowing warmish air I cycle the hydraulics a couple/3/4 times then pick the rpm up to 2,000 and work it. Max rpm is 2,600, but it hardly ever gets to the pto rpm of 2520 when I don't have the snow blower on.

 

[Hard Knocks]

The RX7320 Cab needs to be working to move that needle. Especially in the cold. The ROPS model is the same to a lesser degree. I think the extra heat rejection from the heater system in the cab amplifies this. As soon as you get some load on the engine it will move the needle up to normal.

 

[Tinstafl]

I was working mine pulling fence posts and it never really got up to operating temps in an hour but I pulled the posts and old wire then shut it down. I will need to move some gravel soon so that will tax it a bit. . I was not minus 5 but in the twenties.

 

[WarrenLT]

So I hopped in the tractor and headed down the road to my brothers house. Once I was running in high gear at PTO speed for about a half mile the gauge came up and settled between the dots like it's supposed to. Once I slowed down and started moving snow, it slowly dropped back down to nothing.

So evidently its working, just running too cold to move the needle in this sub zero weather. Does that mean a stuck thermostat or is this normal and maybe just a symptom of a very narrow window of temp to move the needle?

Did you ever get this fixed or are you just living with it? My 2024 RX7320 does the same thing. I am convinced its because the heater return goes to the radiator bottom tank rather than the water pump inlet which just like having a partially open thermostat. The engine will not maintain operating temp with the heater on unless you work it hard.

 

[Looking4new]

If you don't want to change the thermostat in the cold weather, just put a piece of cardboard over the rad. I use an amazon box side and cover all the rad. Usually I put that in front of the dust screen. It works for me, I use it every winter.

 

[WarrenLT]

Thanks for your reply. My thermostat is okay and doing its job. The problem is the heater return flow pushing cold water from the radiator back to the engine. I've tried the cardboard and it does help but you also have to heat up the water in the radiator to get the engine warm. Wouldn't be necessary if the heater return went back to the water pump inlet (lower radiator hose tee). Then the radiator would be out of the loop until its needed and the thermostat opens.