Kioti CK20 Blowing white/blue smoke

brkdrvr · May 12, 2012

Hello, My five year old CK20hst with just under 500 hours recently started blowing excessive white smoke. I have run only synthetic Shell Rotella 14w40.
I was moving some sand/gravel with the loader bucket after bush hogging for about 3 hours. Prior to the smoking I did run fairly low on diesel and add about a gallon that was in my can (fuel was a couple of days old) The unit was running a little hot (slightly over the normal mark) but did not over heat, I was very low on fuel but did not run out. I shut down as soon as it started smoking and checked the oil & coolant. Oil was fine with no evidence of moisture, coolant was also fine with no evidence of oil. The 1st thing I did was get 5 gals fresh diesel and fill the tank, tractor started up immediately but continued to smoke. I shut down and purchased and installed new OEM Kioti; oil, air and fuel filters (all were due), the dealer gave me some Kioti fuel additive in the hope that the gallon of diesel I had added was contaminated w/water or bad. I re-started tractor and let it idle. The tractor starts right up and seems to run fairly well, smokes a little less it may be a little louder than normal I'm not sure. The tractor is still smoking and smells bad/burnt/foul.
I'm not sure what to do next but would rather not pay $$$$$ to the dealer if I can diagnose and repair myself. I'm a fairly good mechanic but don't know much about diesels. I am thinking maybe a failed valve seal, broken valve spring, bad injector, or even a failed piston ring. I would say the smoke is on the white side but not like steam and definitely not black, the engine starts easily and runs and idles fine. The exhaust just smells wrong to me burnt and not sweet like a gas engine with coolant getting into the combustion. Any ideas would be appreciated

Looking4new · May 12, 2012

With the tractor up to operating temperature, CAREFULLY take the rad cap off (wear gloves) and look at the coolant. You do NOT want to see bubbles. If you do see bubbles then most likely you have a blown head gasket.

ritcheyvs · May 12, 2012

Do check for bubbles in radiator but excess fuel (bad injector) can also produce white smoke. Bad injector is cheaper and easier to fix but don't run it too much in that condition as it can damage engine.

Valve seals are seldom a problem in Diesels. They do wear out, but with near-zero manifold vacuum consequences are small.

Looking4new · May 12, 2012

I forgot to ask. Is it running as smooth as it did before it started to smoke?

brkdrvr · May 12, 2012

I don't think it's as smooth as before. I am wondering if there are any shop manuals for Kioti diesels or on small diesel tractor injector removal/replacement on the net. I have pulled injectors on gas Volvo's and tested for spray pattern & volume but have no idea where to start on a 3 cyl diesel. I am also wondering if I should be checking the coolant hot while running or shut off. Can injectors be cleaned & repaired or are they strictly replaced. Thanks again for the input.

Coyote machine · May 13, 2012

I suggest trying to narrow the problem down to one issue. Though whitish smoke could be the result of a few things, determining which one is first on your list. Check your oil level and coolant levels cold, before starting the 20. You can take the radiator cap off and check for flow of coolant while the engine is warming up. If the 20 comes up to temp while idling and the radiator overflows then you could have exhaust gases entering the cooling system and making their exit through your coolant and out the radiator cap hole.
You mentioned running hot- slightly over the normal mark. Is this something that just started occurring? If so, I'd be inclined to lean toward head gasket, especially if it simultaneously started blowing excessive white smoke.
If it turns out to be injector related it is likely less serious in the short run so long as you don't allow it to run too much while diagnosing. If its cooked a head gasket it could do more damage sooner due to coolant mixing with exhaust gas etc. Have you checked for blocked radiator/ screen, etc. and made sure the air filter does not have any blockage either?
Volvo gas injectors function on similar principles regarding clean conical spray patterns etc., but are not under the tremendous pressure of a diesel engine's compression function. You're talking a 3 cyl diesel vs. a 4, 6 cyl gas engine. Don't get ahead of yourself, just do the already mentioned checklist, and be especially careful if attempting to remove the rad cap while under pressure - which could be excessive if exhaust is entering the coolant passages- serious scalding possible! Wear eye protection and sleeved shirt/jacket too, and place a towel or large rag over the cap before turning to the first stop- practice it with the the engine off first.
Post back results.
Be careful- good luck.

Looking4new · May 13, 2012

brkdrvr;2845628
I don't think it's as smooth as before. IF the idle is rough and stumbling along and no/not much power I would lean towards injector.

I am also wondering if I should be checking the coolant hot while running or shut off. When checking for bubbles in the coolant, the engine must be running. Just remember all your safety warnings about the hot coolant AND that it WILL be under pressure.

Can injectors be cleaned & repaired or are they strictly replaced.
I don't know.

VictorW · May 13, 2012

The injectors can be cleaned, tested, and pressure reset but another member had purchased new injectors for close to what you'll probably pay for the cleaning and down time would be less.

brkdrvr · May 13, 2012

Thanks for the info.
I think I will go p/u tractor at work site today and bring home on trailer, pressure wash it and then try the coolant test when hot. I'm not sure about the cracking loose of the fuel line at the injector idea I've read about, seems like it will create a mess and not sure it would immediately stop the smoking. I think I have located a shop manual on ebay and will p/u as soon as seller confirms it's the correct one (already heard they are in broken English, just hoping the torque specs & drawings are good.).
I'm not sure what to hope for at this point, injector or head gasket. The injector's look pricey @ $160.00 each but easy to change. The head gasket is @ $60.00 +cyl head bolts if req. Don't even want to think about bad head.

I would love to know what if anything I did caused the problem.

Coyote machine · May 13, 2012

brkdrvr said:
Thanks for the info.
I think I will go p/u tractor at work site today and bring home on trailer, pressure wash it and then try the coolant test when hot. I'm not sure about the cracking loose of the fuel line at the injector idea I've read about, seems like it will create a mess and not sure it would immediately stop the smoking. I think I have located a shop manual on ebay and will p/u as soon as seller confirms it's the correct one (already heard they are in broken English, just hoping the torque specs & drawings are good.).
I'm not sure what to hope for at this point, injector or head gasket. The injector's look pricey @ $160.00 each but easy to change. The head gasket is @ $60.00 +cyl head bolts if req. Don't even want to think about bad head.

I would love to know what if anything I did caused the problem.

Run the coolant test cold first, then up to temperature on the gauge. You didn't answer the question(s) about if the higher than normal temp occurred before or simultaneously with the occurrence of rough run and whitish smoke. These answers help us help you to narrow down the cause.
All it takes for problems to occur is for you to be breathing- stuff happens- if it turns out to be fuel injector system related all you can do is take a close look at your fuel supply chain to insure its as clean as possible.