KingKutter Rotary Mower
- Thread starter thcri
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hockeyhead
Gold Member
I'm relatively new to this also but I've had a kk 5' rotary cutter for a year now. I believe the blade are suppose to be dull to cut brush. People sharpen them to improve the finish cut appearence on pasture and lawns. I got a 1/2 drive socket set from 1" to 1 1/2" , box wrenches also, to even assemble mine. I believe you are looking for an 1 1/4" without going to the barn and checking. Some people just lift it up on the 3pt, block it up and use a air or electric grinder to sharpen them.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I believe the blade are suppose to be dull to cut brush. )</font>
Not dull, but not overly sharp is best. Dull blades just cause a lot more stress when blades confront larger, harder brush and saplings, and uneven cuts of tougher grasses. Overly sharp can lead to too much nicking and possible breaks in the blade. John
Not dull, but not overly sharp is best. Dull blades just cause a lot more stress when blades confront larger, harder brush and saplings, and uneven cuts of tougher grasses. Overly sharp can lead to too much nicking and possible breaks in the blade. John
OkieG
Veteran Member
Ditto on what KiotiJohn said. Some will disagree, but it just makes sense that reasonable blade sharpness is easier on equipment and makes a better cut, in my opinion.
By the way, my cutter is a BushHog brand. The blade nuts take a 1 11/16" socket. Some brands may use other sizes, but I think 1 11/16" is fairly common. If your nut is that size, a 1/2" impact wrench may not budge it.
OkieG
By the way, my cutter is a BushHog brand. The blade nuts take a 1 11/16" socket. Some brands may use other sizes, but I think 1 11/16" is fairly common. If your nut is that size, a 1/2" impact wrench may not budge it.
OkieG
Ole_Hickory
Silver Member
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They need some sharpness to them.
Bird
Rest in Peace
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( They need some sharpness to them )</font>
Actually, I think you'll find the manufacturers recommend a 1/8" flat or blunt edge for cutting brush. A sharp edge gets too many nicks in it too quickly. However, if you know you're only going to be cutting grass and weeds, not going to be hitting any rocks, etc., then you can sharpen them to whatever degree works best for you.
Actually, I think you'll find the manufacturers recommend a 1/8" flat or blunt edge for cutting brush. A sharp edge gets too many nicks in it too quickly. However, if you know you're only going to be cutting grass and weeds, not going to be hitting any rocks, etc., then you can sharpen them to whatever degree works best for you.
Ole_Hickory
Silver Member
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My situation,I have pasture/high grass,brush. If I do not sharpen them some,the grass will look like it is just mashed down and before you are done mowing you will have clumps of grass starting to stand back up and it looks like a very rough uneven cut. I know what you mean by the bluntness on the blades. As heavy as the brush hog blades are I still manage to knick them some.
I put an edge on them occasionally with an orbiting grinder,it has never hurt them in the longrun.I will sharpen them for a somewhat manicured look when mowing grass/hay then I will go to the woods and mow saplings/brush the nicks never mattered to me.I sharpen them some regardless.
The dull blades take more power and waste energy when cutting grass/hay.Some people keep 2 sets of blades,one for cutting grass/hay and another for cutting brush(you probably already new that though).
I put an edge on them occasionally with an orbiting grinder,it has never hurt them in the longrun.I will sharpen them for a somewhat manicured look when mowing grass/hay then I will go to the woods and mow saplings/brush the nicks never mattered to me.I sharpen them some regardless.
The dull blades take more power and waste energy when cutting grass/hay.Some people keep 2 sets of blades,one for cutting grass/hay and another for cutting brush(you probably already new that though).
Bird
Rest in Peace
I sharpened mine a bit, too. My own pasture had no brush except for several little mesquite trees that would try to get started, but I kept them mowed and never let them got more than about a half inch in diameter.
BB_TX
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Homer - Rather than raise my rotary cutter, block it up, and crawl under and remove the blades, here is what I do. I pull my tractor up to one side of the rotary cutter with the FEL extending across to the other side of the cutter. I securely attach a chain to that opposite side of the cutter and to the FEL. Then I slowly raise the cutter as I slowly back up the tractor, standing the cutter up on it's side. I raise and back until the cutter is leaning slightly past vertical back toward the tractor. That way I can easily and safely get to the full underside of the cutter and sharpen the blades with an angle grinder. I never take them off, but it would be much easier with it standing up like that.
Soundguy
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Looks like you need a giant socket to remove them,has anyone ever done this )</font>
That's the hard way to do it. Most of us raise the cutter.. block it securely.. and then use a hand held angle grinder to put whatever level of sharpening we are looking for.
Takes about 15 minutes.. and no grunting with a cheater pipe and breaker bar... and no wondering if the blades are tight enough and will swing off the first time it spins up...
Soundguy
That's the hard way to do it. Most of us raise the cutter.. block it securely.. and then use a hand held angle grinder to put whatever level of sharpening we are looking for.
Takes about 15 minutes.. and no grunting with a cheater pipe and breaker bar... and no wondering if the blades are tight enough and will swing off the first time it spins up...
Soundguy
