Kama TS354C Engine Running Rough

[bluechip]

Tach sensor might need some adjusment, may be on the loose edge of reading. you might turn it in a quarter turn or so. the correct way is to shut off engeing turn in till it touches flywheel then back our about a turn and a half to two turns. may also be a bad electrical connection, the higher voltage when the throttle increases makes it through the bad connection easier. The gages have been pretty stable in the all in one cluster, compared to the older jinmas with separate gages. Jinma uses the same dash on their LE models as the KAMA.

 

[bluechip]

Tach sensor might need some adjusment, may be on the loose edge of reading. you might turn it in a quarter turn or so. the correct way is to shut off engeing turn in till it touches flywheel then back our about a turn and a half to two turns. may also be a bad electrical connection, the higher voltage when the throttle increases makes it through the bad connection easier. The gages have been pretty stable in the all in one cluster, compared to the older jinmas with separate gages. Jinma uses the same dash on their LE models as the KAMA.

 

[3RRL]

Schmalts,
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 3RR, That forum you posted is a joke. I put a few imformative posts on there and that moron moderator "thingy"
put a snotty response to every one saying i was just an internet mechanic... )</font>

I read your posts there after you PM'ed me and they were informative. I also read his...I'm sorry you were treated so disrespectfully. I know Jim went through the same thing and informed me about it too. There are some guys with good iformative posts that also post on this board. As on this board, you take or disregard what you want from the posts, but in any case, rudeness should not be a part of it.

Zogman,
Like Chip said, I think the valve adjustment will help your engine run better. I'd try to get it done at your next opportunity.

 

[3RRL]

Schmalts,
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 3RR, That forum you posted is a joke. I put a few imformative posts on there and that moron moderator "thingy"
put a snotty response to every one saying i was just an internet mechanic... )</font>

I read your posts there after you PM'ed me and they were informative. I also read his...I'm sorry you were treated so disrespectfully. I know Jim went through the same thing and informed me about it too. There are some guys with good iformative posts that also post on this board. As on this board, you take or disregard what you want from the posts, but in any case, rudeness should not be a part of it.

Zogman,
Like Chip said, I think the valve adjustment will help your engine run better. I'd try to get it done at your next opportunity.

 

[zogman]

Update - I ran the tractor for two 1.5 hr sessions brush hogging some pretty heavy stuff and it crept up to about 1/4 inch from the red both times. The first time I shut it down and let it cool then added about 2 quarts of water. The second run I watched it closer and when it got hot I shut it down and looked for a leak and found that it was spewing from the overflow hose at the radiator cap. It was still in the green on the instrument panel but it acted as if it was overheated.

 

[zogman]

Update - I ran the tractor for two 1.5 hr sessions brush hogging some pretty heavy stuff and it crept up to about 1/4 inch from the red both times. The first time I shut it down and let it cool then added about 2 quarts of water. The second run I watched it closer and when it got hot I shut it down and looked for a leak and found that it was spewing from the overflow hose at the radiator cap. It was still in the green on the instrument panel but it acted as if it was overheated.

 

[zogman]

Chip, I don't think the tach is wrong because I can feel the roughness of the engine, It runs right up to the 2300 rpm mark when it is first started but after a little work it starts to sound like a VW bug and won't get past 2100 rpm. I think the oil pressure is fine because it stays just above the .2 mark on the guage, your post on the thinning oil made me feel better about that.

 

[zogman]

Chip, I don't think the tach is wrong because I can feel the roughness of the engine, It runs right up to the 2300 rpm mark when it is first started but after a little work it starts to sound like a VW bug and won't get past 2100 rpm. I think the oil pressure is fine because it stays just above the .2 mark on the guage, your post on the thinning oil made me feel better about that.

 

[tat2z1969]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Update - I ran the tractor for two 1.5 hr sessions brush hogging some pretty heavy stuff and it crept up to about 1/4 inch from the red both times. The first time I shut it down and let it cool then added about 2 quarts of water. The second run I watched it closer and when it got hot I shut it down and looked for a leak and found that it was spewing from the overflow hose at the radiator cap. It was still in the green on the instrument panel but it acted as if it was overheated. )</font>

If you fill the rad to the bottom of the neck they don't like it. Fill it to about 1 inch below the bottom of the neck and it should quit running out the overflow tube.
As your engine gets hot it could be your valve clearance is closing up from thermal expansion and if its tight to begin with it could be getting really tight when hot. I would adjust the valves, it should be done anyway as stated by the tractor manufacturer.

 

[tat2z1969]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Update - I ran the tractor for two 1.5 hr sessions brush hogging some pretty heavy stuff and it crept up to about 1/4 inch from the red both times. The first time I shut it down and let it cool then added about 2 quarts of water. The second run I watched it closer and when it got hot I shut it down and looked for a leak and found that it was spewing from the overflow hose at the radiator cap. It was still in the green on the instrument panel but it acted as if it was overheated. )</font>

If you fill the rad to the bottom of the neck they don't like it. Fill it to about 1 inch below the bottom of the neck and it should quit running out the overflow tube.
As your engine gets hot it could be your valve clearance is closing up from thermal expansion and if its tight to begin with it could be getting really tight when hot. I would adjust the valves, it should be done anyway as stated by the tractor manufacturer.

 

[bluechip]

The tach adj was for Dwayne. .2 is good at idle, of course it will be higher above idle.

 

[bluechip]

The tach adj was for Dwayne. .2 is good at idle, of course it will be higher above idle.

 

[TriDPecans]

The last time I cleaned out the tank on my c/hi 695 I closed the fuel shut off and forgot to open it before I started the tractor. I go no power and lots of white smoke. As soon as I opened it, no problem. Maybe you have an obstruction

 

[TriDPecans]

The last time I cleaned out the tank on my c/hi 695 I closed the fuel shut off and forgot to open it before I started the tractor. I go no power and lots of white smoke. As soon as I opened it, no problem. Maybe you have an obstruction

 

[CADDOCTOR]

HAVE A KAMA TC354 QUIT WHILE USING --WAS IN SECOND GEAR UNDER LOAD PULLING DIRT QUIT NO WARNING-- HAS FUEL CAN PRIME UP WITH PLUNGER CRACK LINE AT INJECTOR -- SQUIRTS OUT OF EACH ONE -- SOUNDS NORMAL WHILE CRANKING ANY IDEAS

 

[SPIKER]

Try cracking one of the injector lines to see if it is squirting fuel, might have sheared key off the pump drive or something popped apart. You should also check if it has a fuel cutoff sol, it may have failed. If the engine shuts off with the key then yes it has some sort of electrical fuel cutoff. If it stays running until you pull a lever or rod then it is manual cut off and you may have broken something if you get no fuel squirt with a cracked injector line.

Remember you need fuel, air and Compression so if it has a Compression Release check that as well.

Mark

 

[CADDOCTOR]

Thank u in advance--- cracked all four lines -- all squirt a small amout cant stop with finger so to speak but volume is low--did take injector pump apart and cam and pucks move up and down with the little push rod-so i dont know about pressure