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Wacky
Veteran Member
Welcome:welcome:
Marveltone
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2010
- Messages
- 1,483
- Location
- Somewhere north of Roseau, MN
- Tractor
- Fordson Major Diesel, McCormick Deering W4, Ford 1510, John Deere L111
Brand spanking new? Ooh... Pictures please!
Oh, and welcome to the forum. Tons of info (and opinions
) to be found.
Joe
Oh, and welcome to the forum. Tons of info (and opinions
) to be found. Joe
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
:welcome:
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 16,331
- Location
- Daleville, IN
- Tractor
- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
Congrats on the purchase. They are little work horses.
Chris
Chris
Brand spanking new? Ooh... Pictures please!
Oh, and welcome to the forum. Tons of info (and opinions
Joe
Will do pics later. Any tips on assembling one of these things?
Richard
duckhunter27
Gold Member
Well Rich righty tighty lefty loosey lol just kidding i can not be of any help just have fun doing it and welcome to this site.
Vince
Vince
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
Richard,
I built my Jinma 304 from a crate unit and I can offer a few tips.
First and foremost, check every single nut and bolt for proper tightness. Then do it again in case you missed one. (grin) After all that, I later discovered that the bellhousing bolts were not properly tightened on mine at the factory so I had to split the tractor to fix that. I wouldn't have been able to discover that originally unless I had split the tractor, so I don't fault myself.
Use Loctite where appropriate. Tractors want to shake themselves apart if you let them.
The tie rod ends on Jinmas are adjustable - mine were loose and I didn't know they were adjustable so I had later problems. Check yours now and set them good and snug.
I recommend setting your wheels to the widest positions possible for better stability.
Check all electrical wiring points for proper grounding - the factory doesn't remove the paint before they screw the ground lugs down and they make poor contact. Re-do all of them using dielectric grease and you'll have fewer electrical problems down the road.
Take lots of time and care in setting the clutch correctly. The factory doesn't do this and it must be done. There are tutorials on how to do it on this and other tractor forums. Follow the directions and get it exactly right the first time. This is a critical item in assembly!
Drain ALL the fluids out of the tractor - every one. The factory fluids are junk. Flush all the systems, gear oil, engine oil, hydraulic fluid, injector pump and steering system with kerosene or diesel and refill with the proper US fluids. 15W40 engine oil, AW32 hydraulic fluid, 80W90 gear oil. The front drive takes gear oil, the injector pump takes motor oil, the steering takes hydraulic fluid. Do the radiator, too. Replace coolant with proper diesel-type coolant with SCAs, one that is rated for a wet-sleeve engine. (Uh, don't flush the cooling system with kerosene - use water, okay? grin)
If you don't have an adapter for loading your times with ballast, might as well order one now. The more weight on the ground the better the traction.
That's what comes to mind right off - hopefully others will chime in with more ideas.
Rich
I built my Jinma 304 from a crate unit and I can offer a few tips.
First and foremost, check every single nut and bolt for proper tightness. Then do it again in case you missed one. (grin) After all that, I later discovered that the bellhousing bolts were not properly tightened on mine at the factory so I had to split the tractor to fix that. I wouldn't have been able to discover that originally unless I had split the tractor, so I don't fault myself.
Use Loctite where appropriate. Tractors want to shake themselves apart if you let them.
The tie rod ends on Jinmas are adjustable - mine were loose and I didn't know they were adjustable so I had later problems. Check yours now and set them good and snug.
I recommend setting your wheels to the widest positions possible for better stability.
Check all electrical wiring points for proper grounding - the factory doesn't remove the paint before they screw the ground lugs down and they make poor contact. Re-do all of them using dielectric grease and you'll have fewer electrical problems down the road.
Take lots of time and care in setting the clutch correctly. The factory doesn't do this and it must be done. There are tutorials on how to do it on this and other tractor forums. Follow the directions and get it exactly right the first time. This is a critical item in assembly!
Drain ALL the fluids out of the tractor - every one. The factory fluids are junk. Flush all the systems, gear oil, engine oil, hydraulic fluid, injector pump and steering system with kerosene or diesel and refill with the proper US fluids. 15W40 engine oil, AW32 hydraulic fluid, 80W90 gear oil. The front drive takes gear oil, the injector pump takes motor oil, the steering takes hydraulic fluid. Do the radiator, too. Replace coolant with proper diesel-type coolant with SCAs, one that is rated for a wet-sleeve engine. (Uh, don't flush the cooling system with kerosene - use water, okay? grin)
If you don't have an adapter for loading your times with ballast, might as well order one now. The more weight on the ground the better the traction.
That's what comes to mind right off - hopefully others will chime in with more ideas.
Rich
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 16,331
- Location
- Daleville, IN
- Tractor
- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
Rich covered it very well. Again adjust the clutch. 95% of all clutch issues are prep related or lack of. Like he said drain all fluids, flush, and refill. I would do this after the first hour. Check all the nuts and bolts twice then again at about 10 hours.
Here are the filters I use on my 284. Its a 2003 so they may or may not be the same.
Air= Purulator A42019
Oil= Fram PH3950
Fuel= Fram P6503
Chris
Here are the filters I use on my 284. Its a 2003 so they may or may not be the same.
Air= Purulator A42019
Oil= Fram PH3950
Fuel= Fram P6503
Chris
Thanks Rich and Chris. Will start on Wed. Trying to line up some help. Seems like everyone is busy when "heavy lifting" is involved
I've printed out what you both have said in your posts and will definately follow your suggestions. I was aware of the oil changes but didn't know about flushing each reservior. Any suggestions on a good clutch adjustment proc? I think the clutch adjustment should be done before I install the loader since access points are also the loader attachment points.
Rich, how did you find the bell housing bolts were installed improperly? Why did you have to split the tractor? Just curious.
Thanks Again
Richard
I've printed out what you both have said in your posts and will definately follow your suggestions. I was aware of the oil changes but didn't know about flushing each reservior. Any suggestions on a good clutch adjustment proc? I think the clutch adjustment should be done before I install the loader since access points are also the loader attachment points.
Rich, how did you find the bell housing bolts were installed improperly? Why did you have to split the tractor? Just curious.
Thanks Again
Richard
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
Richard,
MY tractor began weeping oil from the junction of the bellhousing and the flywheel cover. The leak was minimal at higher rpm but almost a steady stream at idle. I covered the repair here: CHINESE TRACTOR WORLD FORUMS - Login
The clutch adjustment procedure has been covered on more than one forum, do a search and you should find it. It is important to do it correctly the very first time. It only takes an hour or so, but it is time well spent, believe me. Definitely before you install the loader.
Rich
MY tractor began weeping oil from the junction of the bellhousing and the flywheel cover. The leak was minimal at higher rpm but almost a steady stream at idle. I covered the repair here: CHINESE TRACTOR WORLD FORUMS - Login
The clutch adjustment procedure has been covered on more than one forum, do a search and you should find it. It is important to do it correctly the very first time. It only takes an hour or so, but it is time well spent, believe me. Definitely before you install the loader.
Rich
Thanks, I think I found a procedure, with pics, on the ctoa web site thru a search. Can't believe they want $15 to join ctoa
Richard
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Simple: CTOA isn't driven by ADVERTISING!
Personally, I abhor it. I gladly pay to NOT have it.
In fact, I think I will vacate this forum. Thanks for bringing it up.
Wow, I just joined. Wish you would stay. I thought it was supported by advertisers. I actually bought my tractor plus implements from one of there supporters (Keno Tractors). So far they have been very good to me. Sorry to see you go.
Richard
Here are some similar links:
