Just bought an 85

[Eyecatcher]

Just picked up a model 85. Seller said it hadn't run in 3 or 4 years. Only paid $150 for it, and it looks pretty good. 3 point doesn't work, and the casing was busted and welded up, looks like they did a neat job, but arms just flop. Power steering didn't work when parked, and when we loaded it something broke in the gear box just below the wheel. Now the wheel rotates freely. Gonna drain the fuel tank and replace the filters and see if it will fire. guy said it ran great when he parked it. Gonna need a parts manual and a shop manual if anybody has one to part with. by the way, it's a diesel.

 

[frylakedave]

I just purchased an 85 that had been sitting for 3 or 4 years. I got it running and will need to become a marvel car expert I guess because mine is gas. There looks to be two mixture knobs on it. Is one high speed and one idle mix? Also I can figure out how to lock the differential. Is it possible that it does not have that feature?

 

[Eyecatcher]

Hope your having better luck than I am. So far, have added a new starter solenoid, an electric fuel pump, and rebuilt the injection pump. Now looking for a sediment bulb that we broke. Still haven't heard it run except on starting fluid. Don't know about differential lock, I'll look in the manual and see what I find.

 

[Eyecatcher]

got the injector pump reinstalled today, bypassed the sediment bulb with an inline filter. Rechecked the timing, I think it's right, but it won't fire, even on starting fluid. The only thing I can think of, is not turning it fast enough. Pulled the injectors and squirted xmssion fluid in all the cylinders, let it pickle for a week and I'll try again with 2 new batteries.

 

[Kenneth S]

How long did you have it running on starting fluid?

 

[Eyecatcher]

Actually, never "got it running" on starting fluid, just fired a few times. Now it won't even do that. The only thing I can think of, is we're not turning it over fast enough, or doesn't have enough compression. We had good heavy cables (welding cable) from dual batteries in p/u, one 12v battery installed, and another 12v battery jumped with another set of good cables, and it didn't turn very fast. The starter is a new rbld, so I think the compression must be good. It spins like an airplane with the injectors removed. If there are any continental diesel experts on here, I'd sure like to talk to one of them.

 

[Kenneth S]

If it won't fire on either chances are the rings are seized to the pistons, and are no longer sealing against the cylinder walls like they should meaning the compression is too low. A diesel engine should have 300 + psi of compression. Take the injectors out, and put some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder, and let it sit for a week or two (it may free the rings from the pistons. After a week, or two rotate the engine over a few times without the injectors in it to make sure you don't hydraulic lock the engine, put the injectors back in it then see if will try to start. If it initially tries to start but then won't chances are you will need to go into the engine (new piston rings, and possibly new pistons, and sleeves).

 

[Eyecatcher]

no telling how many hours are on this old tractor. I've got each cylinder full of transmission fluid at the present. Picked up a bottle of Marvel mystery oil today, I'll leave the fluid like it is til this weekend. then blow it out and put the MM in there and let it set a week. The timing thing has me a little mystified. We even pulled the gas tank and the rocker cover to make sure the #1 piston was on the compression stroke. Piston goes down with intake valve open - intake stroke. Then piston comes up with both valves closed, has to be compression stroke. Stop with flywheel at 20BTC. Book shows that the drive slot should be perpendicular to the block. It's not, about 45 degree angle, but so is the drive tab on the injector pump. The drive shaft going into the pump has a dimple offset
to one side, the book says must match offset dimple in the distributor rotor. With the dimples matched, flywheel @ 20btdc. & timing marks in injector window aligned, Pump should drop right into place - it doesn't. The end of the driveshaft where it mates to the driver in the engine block, has a small pin that is offset to one side enough that it can't be installed backwards. With everything aligned as above, the pin is offset the wrong way. Right now, I've pulled the driveshaft and reinstalled so that the dimples don't match, and it drops right in. That leads me to believe that I've got it timed 180 out. I think the only way to correct this is to pull the drive gear out of the block, rotate 180 and re-insert. Anybody got any opinions? I think even if the pump is 180 out, it should still fire on starting fluid. I need help!

 

[Kenneth S]

Even with it that far out of time it should try to run on starting fluid. I'm working on a Bobcat 732B skid steer with a Kubota diesel, and the only way I can get to even try to fire is to pull the injectors, put about 1-2 oz of motor oil in each cylinder, put the injectors back it. With just the engine oil it will fire, and it will kinda run for about 5 seconds until the oil is gone. As far as the injector timing it's hard for me to say, you may want to see if you can find a different manual(s), or a knowledgeable mechanic at a MF dealer if there is one close to you.

 

[Chris Schurmann]

If the only way you can get it to fire is pouring motor oil in it, you have a lack of compression and thats why it won't fire on fuel. Time for a compressiin check. Setting that long you most likely have bad rings and with no compressiin it will be hard to get it to kick on fuel. The oil helps fill the void of compression and cuases it to fire once burned out she will go flat.