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imperato2
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- john deere f935
they wont stay depressed when engine is off. does that mean there dirty or broke. i am going to take them out now i will see
john deere f935 hydro
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Service manual has a discussion about a broken spring in a relief pressure valve in the transmission that could cause this to happen. Seems like a simple procedure to pull them out, clean and check springs and shims. Shims are used to change/adjust the relief pressure.
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imperato2
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- john deere f935
i just got done pulling them out everything looked okay?? one side will say down if pressed and when i had them out if i pulled up on it i could hear some sucktion on the charge check valves . the charge relief valve on top i pulled too there wasn't no shims in it and it look okay??? i also did download the sundstrand manual and seen there is another valve on the side
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
I've always liked these F series style mowers and was wondering how they hold up?
What could be considered "high time" on one? I see them with 2000-3000 hours and I'm thinking they might be too expensive to get them back into a reliable condition.
Are they high maintenance? How would you compare to a decent Zero turn? I really like the 7iron deck.
What could be considered "high time" on one? I see them with 2000-3000 hours and I'm thinking they might be too expensive to get them back into a reliable condition.
Are they high maintenance? How would you compare to a decent Zero turn? I really like the 7iron deck.
My F935 (diesel with 72" mower) has a very early serial number and runs like new after adjusting the valves. It needed glow plugs for the cold autumn starts here im Michigan and a transmission drive coupler. The mower deck gauge wheels were a bit worn so I replaced them, but in general its been a great machine: fast ground speed, sips fuels, handles a leaf vac trailer and is easy to drive (has a real steering wheel).
I have even been able to add a 540 rpm pto option to it to drive my pto tractor generator from the front. My hour meter died at 1600+ hours so I replaced it and its as good as new with 260+ on it. Its easy to work on, too, for lube, oil and filter changes. I'm thinkin' of making up a front post hole digger attachment for it because I like looking directly at my work area, not having to twist my neck around 90 degrees.
Plus I can trailer it on my snowmobile trailer instead of needing a car carrier for my regular tractor.
I have even been able to add a 540 rpm pto option to it to drive my pto tractor generator from the front. My hour meter died at 1600+ hours so I replaced it and its as good as new with 260+ on it. Its easy to work on, too, for lube, oil and filter changes. I'm thinkin' of making up a front post hole digger attachment for it because I like looking directly at my work area, not having to twist my neck around 90 degrees.
Plus I can trailer it on my snowmobile trailer instead of needing a car carrier for my regular tractor.
Brimstone10x
Silver Member
If it drives both ways with the dif lock on I would think the hydro trans could be ruled out. Im thinkin broken axle shaft or spline stripped at dif . I believe the trans axle on that unit is the same as a 318 (ect) garden tractor. I have seen a couple broken axles before on these.
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imperato2
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- john deere f935
i jacked it up today and it free wheels(does not trun the other side)it also looks like the key is still in there. if i start it up and push the lever it will kinda spin if i wiggle it.i went to pull the brake hub off and i don't have a big enough puller so i will find one tomorrow. i was thinkin the same thing that the axle is broke.
i have a few more questions if someone is still listining. one the brake hub is off will the axle pull out or do i need to take the houseing out too. and is ther any thing in the tranny that would be broke to cause this. also should the be any play up and down or in and out when moving the axle?
thanks for all the help
i have a few more questions if someone is still listining. one the brake hub is off will the axle pull out or do i need to take the houseing out too. and is ther any thing in the tranny that would be broke to cause this. also should the be any play up and down or in and out when moving the axle?
thanks for all the help
i jacked it up today and it free wheels(does not trun the other side)it also looks like the key is still in there. if i start it up and push the lever it will kinda spin if i wiggle it.i went to pull the brake hub off and i don't have a big enough puller so i will find one tomorrow. i was thinkin the same thing that the axle is broke.
i have a few more questions if someone is still listining. one the brake hub is off will the axle pull out or do i need to take the houseing out too. and is ther any thing in the tranny that would be broke to cause this. also should the be any play up and down or in and out when moving the axle?
thanks for all the help
You should be able to just pull off the brake hub once the big nut is off. If you cannot pull the hub then I am betting the key is sheared and is jamming the hub. They are not a tapered or particularly tight fit. Should pull off with little effort.
It should still pull off with a broken axle.
Just remembered that you need to back off the brake shoes to get the hub off:thumbsup::thumbsup:
