Buying Advice John Deere compact choices

[paulfun9]

My loader is on 99.999 percent of the time the .001 percent was when I took it off just to see how it dismounts and reattaches.

BUT just like many other tools that have functions that I don't use a lot or rarely at all I wouldn't buy a new tractor without a quick disconnect loader, just like the tools when they are needed nothing else will really do the job right without a lot of extra work and when the job pops up that needs the loader off it will be a godsend to be able to remove it for sure.

 

[Novice Brit]

Thank you Paulfun9, really good point. Trouble is the likely purchase price reaching heights that are becoming hard to justify and may be a trade-off between price/Tractor size and functionality/convenience:-(......

 

[Novice Brit]

Cheers DK35vince, Yes, yourself and others re-introducing the 'Permanent'/Removable FEL debate in my head, if price was no concern and ultimate feedback on the 4000 series as good as the advertising, then a 4000R probably where I would go but sadly the price hard to justify for basically property maintenance/recovery and maybe some hobby 'farming', however the internal debate still raging so all the feedback really welcome.....

 

[Novice Brit]

Cheers Nickdfish, Just bucket (as opposed to whole FEL) removal sounds like it could be a compromise solution for situations where manoeuvring space is tight. See you have or had a 3038E are/were you happy with it? Any build quality issues. Any FEL issues with hydraulics i.e. bucked not holding its angle necessitating re-positioning.

 

[Novice Brit]

Vince has it right about removing the FEL for certain chores. By taking the loader off, it relieves the front axle from carrying several hundred extra pounds on a typical mid-sized compact, which makes a noticeable difference when mowing, operating a tiller, etc., and puts less wear on the front end. Everyone's experience differs, of course, but about half of my work benefits from having the loader removed. Easy enough job removing it with most modern tractors.

Thanks Grandad4 and apologies to all as I should really have been selecting 'reply with quote' to most posts, far easier to follow....Ideally I will opt for a unit that has a quick FEL release option, I would much prefer it but will probably be restrained ultimately by cost. As you say FEL's generally removable without the quick release design but personally suspect i would find it too much of a chore without the quick release.

 

[Novice Brit]

In the 28 yrs I owned the 750, I never took the fel off but I did not cut grass or rototill with it. I did negotiate some very tight spaces in the woods with little problem and was always glad it was on there.You are exactly right about "use". I mostly log and plow snow with mine. Of course I went to look at the Deeres first and was shocked to find that the 3032-38 series Deere's were mostly a lot of plastic including the floor boards. I was concerned that these would get wrecked in the woods and thought my old 750 was a much better built tractor. If I could, I thought the 770-790 or what they then called 3005 was a better choice for me for how I use a tractor. I then went to the JD 3320 and loved this tractor. With my trade, the JD dealership was 10 grand off what the Mahindra dealership was offering me so I settled for the Mahindra geared 3016. This has been a very useful tractor so far and the grandkids also seem to like it as much as the green one I used to have.

Thanks again Arrow, re Grandchildren, terrific piccie, bet they have a lot of fun. My only grandchild to date loves the ride-on mower but will I suspect be even more impressed with the tractor, if that is I can ever make a decision!! I'm a bit tied with make of tractor as there is a large JD dealership close to our France property (was leaning towards JD anyway) although I have since discovered there is a New Holland dealership close by as well.

 

[Novice Brit]

I've never had my FEL off, either. More often than not, if I am using the tractor, I am using the FEL.

Novice Brit - Keep in mind you can also use the FEL to get yourself unstuck, should you venture into some marshy land.

Cheers Mike, I will probably require the FEL for less than 25% of the time but good to know I don't really need to worry if I don't/can't remove it and good point re marshy land, I do have some very wet areas around the lake in the winter, I'll ensure the FEL is on whenever I go near 'em!

 

[Novice Brit]

I remove my 3320 FEL all the time. It takes less then 5 minutes! It makes the tractor easier to use when cutting the lawn, or using things off the rear PTO. It took a few times to get use to it, but it is very simple.

Cheers JB, I'll ensure that if the FEL isn't one of the quick release variety, i at least can get it off myself if necessary......

 

[Novice Brit]

Different strokes for different folks, that is a fact. I have never had the loader off of the 32hp machine and yet I hate to have the loader on the 75hp machine when doing field work. It really does make a HUGE difference with just exactly what you are doing with the machine at any particular time.

Just my :2cents:

Thanks, suspect I will end up removing the FEL more often if I opt for a tractor with quick release and very rarely if without, knowing me it will take a lot longer than for the majority of users, i'm a bit of a 'dreamer' and not the most practical!

 

[boggen]

skim read the thread.

the lake, uneven / hilliness of property, and woods, is the big concern stuff.

skidding out trees that you have dropped, is about only thing that is going to push you, for wanting a bigger tractor. bigger tractor being 4wd, MFWD, or like, more weight (weight is king in tractor stuff majorty of the time (more the better)), more lifting capacity, larger engine.

due to you tasks most likely involved, will be a lot of forward/backward motion along with changing of speeds, a HST (hydro-static transmission) most likely better for you, and all the multi tasks.

FEL, most likely a requirement for you, and not optional,

going to suggest a TNT (top and tilt) setup for your tractor, at bare min, replacing the top link on 3pt hitch with a hydraulic cylinder. if you have spare cash, then maybe also replacing 1 or both side links on the 3pt hitch with a hydraulic cylinder.

2 rear hyd remotes min, 3, if you go with both top link and 1 or 2 side links for a TNT setup. this should give you enough for what ever 3pt hitch attachment you end up getting / using.

check chains / sway chains, swinging draw bar, for 3pt area of tractor, most likely an other requirement and not optional for you. for various tasks the tractor will see.

left/right rear steering brakes (separate pedals for left/right rear wheels) = a requirement, and be on opposite foot than the gas/hst pedal/s a lot of maneuvering and FEL work, and may be only way to keep the machine under control and be able to steer the machine.

with woods, there is a good chance you may get a "12v electrical winch" for tractor. in that case, if they give an option for a bigger "alternator" get it.

for extra weight, and help stabilize the tractor hills, fill rear tires with a fluid, then double check manual to see if recommends filling front tires or not ((it differs from every make/model out there))

if the rims allow for it, have tires swapped around, to obtain a "wider stance" for the tractor. for extra stability on hills.

having a differential lock (able to lock rear tires together), can be nice getting your rear unstuck at times. not a requirement but nice to have, 4WD, and FEL, and split rear brakes, goes a long ways, but at times, it is easier to tap the differential lock. and up and out of the mud hopefully.

if you have an option for "power revers-er" for the transmission, same speed forward/backward. it can be a nice thing to have, have ran backwards a lot (less time vs turning around a couple times, to do what i am doing on longer runs)

3pt hitch, quick attack, pats easy hitch, telescopic lower lift arms, get one of them, i am favor of telescopic lower lift arms. the other two puts things a few inches further out behind tractor, and reduces over all lift capacity of the 3pt hitch.

=============
a lot of above is tractor specific stuff, that can be cheaper bought up front and at same time as tractor. vs saving and DIY or paying someone later down the road to add to tractor.

the one thing i did not mention was a 3pt hitch backhoe with a sub frame. this tends to be a high ticket item. if you want one, get it at same time as tractor, you more likely get a bigger discount this way. backhoes are nice for trenching, stump removal, ((biggest things seen here on TBN)), but have used mine to get myself unstuck, loading odd objects into back of a pickup truck vs using FEL, carrying some extra dirt in backhoe bucket and in FEL. ((needing to drive clear across property from were i am getting dirt, and needing to place it)). putting in metal T posts, removing old fence posts. and few other things i done already forgot about.

=============
my guess something in the 25HP to 35HP range for tractor engine size, make sure tractor is not an over size riding lawn mower... there is a grayish line between, riding lawn mower frame, vs a larger heavier frame, and more ground clearance under tractor. you will want the bigger heavier frame most likely. due to mud/snow, and everything the tractor will most likely be seeing.

=============
i realize you are wanting tractor specific info. and crunching it down to final choices... but this is more food for thought, and making sure you have things covered, and understand various compromises, you will most likely make, in getting something you want / need for your property.

 

[jbbankshot]

Thank you Paulfun9, really good point. Trouble is the likely purchase price reaching heights that are becoming hard to justify and may be a trade-off between price/Tractor size and functionality/convenience:-(......

Keep in mind that you can add thing later to a bigger unit as the projects justify them. Also, you can find plenty of use PTO/3PT Hitch things as well. You can't make a tractor frame and engine bigger later.

 

[Baby Grand]

Dave,
Thanks for providing lots of specifics about your needs & intended uses. It makes the advice you get better suited to what you want vs what somebody else wants. One thing absent from your needs was any mention of snow - will you be at altitude, or at a lower, warmer climate? Altitude + turbo = good match. As arrow and others mentioned, weight is very important in gaging what your tractor can get done. Weight aids traction, which allows you to apply power without spinning tires. Boggen also mentioned the consideration of working on slopes. A little more description of your terrain might help with more specific advice - hilly, level, mixed? Will you be growing grapes or other crops?

 

[Novice Brit]

skim read the thread.

the lake, uneven / hilliness of property, and woods, is the big concern stuff.

skidding out trees that you have dropped, is about only thing that is going to push you, for wanting a bigger tractor. bigger tractor being 4wd, MFWD, or like, more weight (weight is king in tractor stuff majorty of the time (more the better)), more lifting capacity, larger engine.

due to you tasks most likely involved, will be a lot of forward/backward motion along with changing of speeds, a HST (hydro-static transmission) most likely better for you, and all the multi tasks.

FEL, most likely a requirement for you, and not optional,

going to suggest a TNT (top and tilt) setup for your tractor, at bare min, replacing the top link on 3pt hitch with a hydraulic cylinder. if you have spare cash, then maybe also replacing 1 or both side links on the 3pt hitch with a hydraulic cylinder.

2 rear hyd remotes min, 3, if you go with both top link and 1 or 2 side links for a TNT setup. this should give you enough for what ever 3pt hitch attachment you end up getting / using.

check chains / sway chains, swinging draw bar, for 3pt area of tractor, most likely an other requirement and not optional for you. for various tasks the tractor will see.

left/right rear steering brakes (separate pedals for left/right rear wheels) = a requirement, and be on opposite foot than the gas/hst pedal/s a lot of maneuvering and FEL work, and may be only way to keep the machine under control and be able to steer the machine.

with woods, there is a good chance you may get a "12v electrical winch" for tractor. in that case, if they give an option for a bigger "alternator" get it.

for extra weight, and help stabilize the tractor hills, fill rear tires with a fluid, then double check manual to see if recommends filling front tires or not ((it differs from every make/model out there))

if the rims allow for it, have tires swapped around, to obtain a "wider stance" for the tractor. for extra stability on hills.

having a differential lock (able to lock rear tires together), can be nice getting your rear unstuck at times. not a requirement but nice to have, 4WD, and FEL, and split rear brakes, goes a long ways, but at times, it is easier to tap the differential lock. and up and out of the mud hopefully.

if you have an option for "power revers-er" for the transmission, same speed forward/backward. it can be a nice thing to have, have ran backwards a lot (less time vs turning around a couple times, to do what i am doing on longer runs)

3pt hitch, quick attack, pats easy hitch, telescopic lower lift arms, get one of them, i am favor of telescopic lower lift arms. the other two puts things a few inches further out behind tractor, and reduces over all lift capacity of the 3pt hitch.

=============
a lot of above is tractor specific stuff, that can be cheaper bought up front and at same time as tractor. vs saving and DIY or paying someone later down the road to add to tractor.

the one thing i did not mention was a 3pt hitch backhoe with a sub frame. this tends to be a high ticket item. if you want one, get it at same time as tractor, you more likely get a bigger discount this way. backhoes are nice for trenching, stump removal, ((biggest things seen here on TBN)), but have used mine to get myself unstuck, loading odd objects into back of a pickup truck vs using FEL, carrying some extra dirt in backhoe bucket and in FEL. ((needing to drive clear across property from were i am getting dirt, and needing to place it)). putting in metal T posts, removing old fence posts. and few other things i done already forgot about.

=============
my guess something in the 25HP to 35HP range for tractor engine size, make sure tractor is not an over size riding lawn mower... there is a grayish line between, riding lawn mower frame, vs a larger heavier frame, and more ground clearance under tractor. you will want the bigger heavier frame most likely. due to mud/snow, and everything the tractor will most likely be seeing.

=============
i realize you are wanting tractor specific info. and crunching it down to final choices... but this is more food for thought, and making sure you have things covered, and understand various compromises, you will most likely make, in getting something you want / need for your property.

Hi Ryan,

Wow, thanks for all that, more than I could have hoped for and all good stuff, although i see the costs going up!:-(. Very pleased i joined the forum, something i don't normally do, you guys have all been great and very patient with a novice with a lot of questions (some of them probably dumb ones), if i can't make the correct decisions at final choice time I will only have myself to blame. Can't tell you all how much I appreciate all the feedback. It has all been good even when seemingly opposite and has highlighted the important from the personal preference. No I may not be getting the specifics of models etc but getting a lot of very good advice that should hopefully allow me to the right specifics when the final decision comes.

I think you are right re 25-35hp being sufficient but I might go slightly larger (funds permitting) just for those one-offs where the extra size, weight and power will help. Would love a back hoe and could use it but comes down to price again, point taken re price at first purchase. Thankfully although I do have slopes they are not steep so standard tractor setup probably ok. Will ponder and investigate all the other points you raised, not going to make a decision until late winter/early spring, feb/mar here in Europe.

Thanks again

Dave

 

[Novice Brit]

Thanks again JB,

Yes, that is the way I am leaning, go slightly larger and have a unit able to do more than generally required but never be caught out but the cost of doing so will then compromises other areas unless I just bite the bullet and spend the money. From the feedback to date I suspect i am going to spend more than I originally anticipated but hopefully will then never be kicking myself for not going larger and may be worth the extra cost given that it will almost certainly be a lifetime machine. I am looking forward to seeing the new 4000 series 'in the flesh' and hopefully seeing some reviews/feedback from users (either on this forum or elsewhere), hopefully early next year, obviously still too early for this even in the States. Currently feeling the 2000 series is the lowest I'll go and 4000 the largest, from my original thoughts and the feedback to date the 2000 probably too small and the 4000 probably not necessary and tougher to justify but just looks a little better balanced than the 3000 series.

Cheers

Dave

 

[Novice Brit]

Dave,
Thanks for providing lots of specifics about your needs & intended uses. It makes the advice you get better suited to what you want vs what somebody else wants. One thing absent from your needs was any mention of snow - will you be at altitude, or at a lower, warmer climate? Altitude + turbo = good match. As arrow and others mentioned, weight is very important in gaging what your tractor can get done. Weight aids traction, which allows you to apply power without spinning tires. Boggen also mentioned the consideration of working on slopes. A little more description of your terrain might help with more specific advice - hilly, level, mixed? Will you be growing grapes or other crops?

Hi Baby Grand,

Yes, sorry, I was a little short on specifics, I'll include these with previous data so all in one place:....

Total acreage = 30

23 of woodland
1 acre of 'lawn' (currently very uneven after a visit from wild boars)
half an acre of orchards
3.5 acres of wild grassland plus a 2 acre lake.

I do plan to put about half an acre (max) to Veggies and funny you should mention grapes as we do plan a few vines but nothing commercial, all for ourselves, friends and family.

The land does slope but not severely enough for any concern, the lake sits in a small valley and the land sits either side of it.

Altitude also not a concern ranging from 75 to 95m and property about 50km from Bordeaux, SW of France. There are regular ground frosts in the winter and there is snow but generally not a great deal and normally clears fairly quickly. I would consider a snow blade for clearing and then of course the need for ease of change from FEL to blade but the wife and I are lucky enough to be able to escape to warmer climes for the worst of the winter so the snow blade not a serious consideration. Now i have said this I'll probably get caught out!

The lake however is spring fed and the spring end of the lake boggy all year round. There are other areas that become boggy during the winter but dry out nicely in the summer. I wasn't planning to take the tractor into the permanently boggy area, any work in there I was going to do manually (and therefore hadn't mentioned it) but I am becoming a little more ambitious following all the feedback, if I stretch the budget to a backhoe there is plenty of work for it in this area, including a very small badly silted pond that really needs cleaning out.

There is actually an old well in the boggy area that water overflows from all year round. The property was (actually still is in most areas) so overgrown it took some time to find and clear the well. The property is currently a wart but definitely a diamond in waiting and everything I ever dreamed of, the tractor will be essential if the property is to be restored to its former self and hopefully even beyond.

My current basic thoughts re tractor and main implements are:

JD 2000 to 4000 series Tractor (Having a large JD dealership locally probably the deciding factor on this although I was leaning this way, however I have recently learnt there is a decent New Holland dealership relatively close too and will take a look before making a final decision. The JD 2000 series probably a little too small and the 4000 a little too large but do like the look of the 4000 series.

The tractor will definitely be purchased with a FEL and a Flail Mower, probably a Khun model and a flail as opposed to rotary as I suspect it will be better at keeping the brambles (mainly blackberry bushes that have taken over large areas of woodland and encroached quite a long way into the grassland) under control and hopefully ultimately kill them. I would like a Back Hoe and now giving one serious thought. other implements will likely be purchased along the way: Probably small plough, Tiller and leveller.....Can see my 'Skirted General' is going to become less and less impressed!!

Cheers

Dave

 

[arrow]

Brit, I am puzzled as to why you are not considering the 3000 series JD's such as the 3320? ( I don't think they call it that anymore. More like 3520 or something) They are really nice tractors and may be all you need. Front end loader capacity for what you are planning would be neat if it's in the 1400 lb or above range. Certainly the 4000 series provides more of that. It's just that with your concern for finances, it may be less of a jump financially going to the 3520 from the 3038. They are completely different tractors with the 35 being more capable.

 

[Novice Brit]

Brit, I am puzzled as to why you are not considering the 3000 series JD's such as the 3320? ( I don't think they call it that anymore. More like 3520 or something) They are really nice tractors and may be all you need. Front end loader capacity for what you are planning would be neat if it's in the 1400 lb or above range. Certainly the 4000 series provides more of that. It's just that with your concern for finances, it may be less of a jump financially going to the 3520 from the 3038. They are completely different tractors with the 35 being more capable.

Hi Arrow, I have definitely not written off the 3000 series as considering from 2000 to 4000 models. I think the 3033R (available here in the UK) is closest to the 3320 and on paper this looks good, has more weight and capacity and avoids a Turbo charged engine (keeps things simple and I suspect less wear and tear) but with a similar engine size to the 2032R it doesn't look as well balanced and wonder how much the engine is straining to offer the extra capacities. However for non-commercial use, engine wear and tear consideration should not really be an issue and if the 3033R as good as your 3320 was I should have no concern. The 3000 series definitely in the frame and probably where I should be focusing. Part of my problem here in the UK is getting to actually physically see and sit on the tractors. The JD dealers here or France don't tend to keep much in the way of compacts in stock, I have seen and played with a 2032R and been able to chat with two commercial users, both of whom couldn't speak highly enough of the machine. If size/capacity wasn't a concern the 2032R would be the unit I would go for but the 3000 series definitely in the frame.

 

[Beltman60]

If you might be thinking about adding a back hoe later the 3032e and 3038e machines for the US have a aluminum rear end and can't use a 3pt BH
I have a 3032e and love it
I keep the loader on and at times take the bucket off
the loader doesn't stick out much past the front of the tractor with the bucket off
the added weight of the loader helps keep the fronts pulling when pulling something big in back

 

[Novice Brit]

If you might be thinking about adding a back hoe later the 3032e and 3038e machines for the US have a aluminum rear end and can't use a 3pt BH
I have a 3032e and love it
I keep the loader on and at times take the bucket off
the loader doesn't stick out much past the front of the tractor with the bucket off
the added weight of the loader helps keep the fronts pulling when pulling something big in back

Thank you Beltman60, I hadn't spotted that JD don't offer a back hoe for the 3038E! Mind you i am still ummmm'ing and ahhhhh'ing about a back hoe as much as I am about the tractor model itself:-(.... I would definitely get use out of a back hoe and the thought of having one very enticing but it might be better and even cheaper to hire something in when needed. Good to hear you are more than satisfied with your 3032e and removing just the bucket sounds a good and easy option for 'fixed' FEL when working in tight spaces. Yes, the weight of the loader probably actually advantageous for most jobs that don't actually require it.

Cheers again

Dave