John Deere 4520/Cab

[eepete]

On the diverter, you can get the kit anytime but there may be a labor charge for the dealer to install it. My dealer said it would be $400 to $500 to have them install it. I think some have installed it themselves.

I can't imaging there is any labor for the telescoping links, should be about a minute to change them.

I just paid about $450 in parts and labor to remove the plumbing and QCs for the loader and move it all to the back (with hoses from the joystick). This is what I'm using to control my top and tilt (TnT). If I ever decide to put on a loader, I'll have to get the diverter and the loader, and this is money down the drain. Have a (smaller) loader on my B21 which is what I use.

Pete

 

[AKfish]

I just paid about $450 in parts and labor to remove the plumbing and QCs for the loader and move it all to the back (with hoses from the joystick). This is what I'm using to control my top and tilt (TnT). If I ever decide to put on a loader, I'll have to get the diverter and the loader, and this is money down the drain. Have a (smaller) loader on my B21 which is what I use.

Pete

Pete - what did they quote you for the diverter and the rear SCV's? Thinkin' it must have been pretty steep for you not to go that route.

AKfish

 

[eepete]

The rear SCV, which I got when I ordered the tractor, was $244.

The cost to add the diverter "after I had the tractor" was $1200 for the diverter, and $500 for installation labor for $1700.

The cost to move the front QCs (from the joystick) to the rear was $450, just about evenly spit between parts and labor.

So it was $1250 cheaper to just move the QCs. The only way I'd use the front ones would be if I got a loader, and with the B21 having a loader (all be it at half the capacity of a loader on the 4520) it's hard to justify the $5k (guess) for that. So I put the $1250 into the landplane!

Classic penny pinching maneuver. If I never need the loader, I saved money. If I have to get it anytime this year, I wasted money. If I get it in 5-10 years, who is to say and I'm not going to sweat it. It's also possible that if I get the loader, I might be at a point where I could install it myself and it will just be $1200 or so. Right now, my skill level and confidence is low and I'm really crunched for time.

Pete

 

[jenkinsph]

I can understand Pete's reasoning as I look at the 4520 loader issue the same way. I did not wan't a loader on the 4520 since I have the 110tlb for loader tasks. For hay transport I could see the desire to have multiple loaders but I have no desire to return to a hay operation.

 

[tconnors]

Update:
Received the tractor 5/28/2010 - about 2.5 weeks later than promised. Everything works OK except I have one of the rear hydraulic remote couplers is impossible to get anything to connect onto it. I guess I have to take it back for a replacement, or do it myself.

I have also found that for the jobs I bought it for (raking and tedding) it works fine except that the cruise control seems to want to cancel itself in any rough parts of the field. So you are going along fine, then you hit a little hole or something, and the tractor just stops. First couple of times I wasn't sure why, but as it happened more often, I notice that rough ground makes it cancel itself.

I asked my dealer but just got that RCA dog look and they admitted they don't know squat about this tractor.

Anybody else experience this? If so could you fix it? Is there a sensitivity adjustment?

Thanks in advance.

Love the tractor though, it is everything it promised to be.
Terry Connors

 

[ddivinia]

Update:
Received the tractor 5/28/2010 - about 2.5 weeks later than promised. Everything works OK except I have one of the rear hydraulic remote couplers is impossible to get anything to connect onto it. I guess I have to take it back for a replacement, or do it myself.

I have also found that for the jobs I bought it for (raking and tedding) it works fine except that the cruise control seems to want to cancel itself in any rough parts of the field. So you are going along fine, then you hit a little hole or something, and the tractor just stops. First couple of times I wasn't sure why, but as it happened more often, I notice that rough ground makes it cancel itself.

I asked my dealer but just got that RCA dog look and they admitted they don't know squat about this tractor.

Anybody else experience this? If so could you fix it? Is there a sensitivity adjustment?

Thanks in advance.

Love the tractor though, it is everything it promised to be.
Terry Connors

Is there a chance you are hitting one of the pedals in the rough area?

D.

 

[radman1]

Could it be possible when you hit a ditch or hole, the brake pedals get pushed down slightly and shuts off the cruise? There maybe a sensor on the brake pedals that is being tripped. Can it be adjusted and made less sensitive?

 

[ddivinia]

In one of my hay pastures there are some ruts that will **** near throw you out of the cab and my cruise never shuts off. If you hit the reverse pedal - it will disconnect the cruise.

I have the deluxe cruise with the extra features - not sure if that makes any difference.

D.

 

[jenkinsph]

Don't know for sure but there may be a mercury switch that senses the bumps and disconnects the cruise. You can use the resume function afterwards right?

 

[tconnors]

Thanks for all the replies.

First. I worked with it several times and am quite sure no pedals were hit during operation, either brake or forward/reverse.

Never thought to try the resume feature, but will next time out.

What surprised me is that while I do have some ruts that will throw you out of the seat, this happened in even minimally rough area.

Forgot to mention also, I tried it with load match on and off and no difference.

Regards,
Terry