John deere 4410 won't go forward

[ShaneM]

Well I would post a pic but I'm not seeing a option to do that. Its under the tractor right next to the hydraulic filter in the center of the tractor. It looks like there is supposed to be a plate that covers it but it wasn't on mine. With the plate removed you'll see the fwd driveshaft and 4 connectors going into the trans. The forward pressure transducer will be the right rear sensor (if you were sitting on the tractor). It will be a 3 wire plug with blue, green? , and orange? (hard to tell in pic but one is Def blue). In order to test the wires I disconnected the main harness on the left side of the tractor near the steering wheel and tested continuity with the matching color of the wire. I believe there were a few of the same color in the harness but I just told my wife to test all of whatever color I told her.

 

[Mjr1021]

Well I would post a pic but I'm not seeing a option to do that. Its under the tractor right next to the hydraulic filter in the center of the tractor. It looks like there is supposed to be a plate that covers it but it wasn't on mine. With the plate removed you'll see the fwd driveshaft and 4 connectors going into the trans. The forward pressure transducer will be the right rear sensor (if you were sitting on the tractor). It will be a 3 wire plug with blue, green? , and orange? (hard to tell in pic but one is Def blue). In order to test the wires I disconnected the main harness on the left side of the tractor near the steering wheel and tested continuity with the matching color of the wire. I believe there were a few of the same color in the harness but I just told my wife to test all of whatever color I told her.

Hey Shane, thanks for the quick reply. It has been raining practically all day, so I haven't been able to look at or work on it today. Hopefully tomorrow if it dries up. Thanks for the info.

 

[beenthere]

Well I would post a pic but I'm not seeing a option to do that. .

Pic posting not too difficult if it can be found with browse.

Click on the "go advanced" button next to the "Post quick reply".
Then you will click the "manage attachments" button.
Then you will get a new window where can "add photo" with a browse button. Once the photo is found, then click the "upload" button.

Hope this helps.

 

[ShaneM]

ahh thanks. I was using the phone and didn't see the option. fired up the ol laptop.

 

[beenthere]

Hi Shane,

I have a 1999 JD 4400 Collar Shift - SyncReverser. I am having a similar problem. The problem just started yesterday and I found your thread today. I have a 2001 JD 4400 Technical Manual and there is not one word of a pressure transducer or forward pressure transducer mentioned in the manual. What the heck is it? And where the heck is it located?

Just taking a guess here, after looking at the tech manual for the 4400 and the 4410.. and looks like the 4400 has mechanical shift from reverse to forward, whereas the 4410 has what is referred to as epowershift. That involves forward and a reverse pressure transducers on the 4410 which are not involved at all on the 4400.
Suspect the 4400 problem is a mechanical linkage adjustment needed.

Helped to have the picture posted by Shane.
Additionally, here is a schematic of the parts that include the two transducers for the 4410 (key #27)

 

[super55]

You are correct Beenthere. The 4400 and 4410 look the same but thats about where it ends. The xx00 series is all mechanical linkage for the most part even with the hydro and the 10 series went electronic solenoids with everything. I have a 10 series and a 00 and the tech manual for the 10 series is about 3x as thick on just electrical circuitry.

The linkage could be out of adjustment from the column shifter or what happens sometimes is the detent ball has issues and won't hold or starts binding and doesn't allow the shifter lever to drop in place.

 

[Mjr1021]

You are correct Beenthere. The 4400 and 4410 look the same but thats about where it ends. The xx00 series is all mechanical linkage for the most part even with the hydro and the 10 series went electronic solenoids with everything. I have a 10 series and a 00 and the tech manual for the 10 series is about 3x as thick on just electrical circuitry.

The linkage could be out of adjustment from the column shifter or what happens sometimes is the detent ball has issues and won't hold or starts binding and doesn't allow the shifter lever to drop in place.

Beenthere, super55 thanks for your input, appreciate it. My 4400 has a Gear Transmission. After the engine is started the tractor wants to and will travel in reverse ever so slowly even with collar shifter in neutral position and the clutch fully depressed. After I place the collar shifter in the forward position and slowly release the clutch it still begins to travel slowly in reverse before the clutch engages, then it will grudgingly travel forward a couple of feet if I am feathering the clutch out slowly before ultimately stalling.

 

[super55]

How much travel you have in your clutch? Sounds like your clutch might need a slight adjustment and that the pedal depressed is just barely breaking friction. It the trans is still receiving power from the engine it's gonna shift hard. I would try and address the creeping part first. It might end up solving the second problem of difficulty going forward.

 

[Mjr1021]

How much travel you have in your clutch? Sounds like your clutch might need a slight adjustment and that the pedal depressed is just barely breaking friction. It the trans is still receiving power from the engine it's gonna shift hard. I would try and address the creeping part first. It might end up solving the second problem of difficulty going forward.

I noticed the tractor was leaking a thin stream of hydraulic fluid while using the front end loader, after further inspection underneath the tractor, I noticed a shiny pin (Dowel pin) protruding out horizontally very near the bottom of the Clutch Housing and hydraulic fluid dripping. *I tried to push the pin back inside the housing but it would not budge. * I then got a pair of pliers and tried to force the pin back inside the housing, it moved maybe a quarter of an inch then stopped. *I could tell audibly and tactilely it had hit something inside the Clutch Housing, using the pliers I pulled the pin completely out. * I measured the diameter and length of the pin with digital calipers, it measured (.249" Dia. x 2.00" L)

I referred to a 4400 JD service technical manual and discovered the Dowel Pin (#35) penetrates through the Clutch Housing then through a "Lift Lever" (#1) and back through the other side of the Clutch Housing. *I brought the pin with me and visited two local JD dealerships where I explained to them what had happened. *Both dealerships told me the Dowel Pin is "pressed fit or friction fit" into the Clutch Housing and slides through the Lift Lever and the only way to install that particular Dowel Pin is that they would have to split the tractor (10 Hrs Labor + Parts = $1500 - $1900) AND, I would likely need a new Clutch Housing (Clutch Housing + Parts = $900 - $1400) both dealerships strongly stated they believe the Clutch Housing is worn.

I told them, "You Got To Be EFFING KIDDING!!!"

I spent a day or two thinking about splitting the tractor myself, and I decided I was going to do it! *But I really didn't have the time or want to exert that much energy and effort to install a $1.00 Dowel Pin. *After some more thought, I figured it certainly wouldn't hurt to try to reinstall the Dowel Pin through the Clutch Housing and Lift Lever without splitting the tractor. *So I cleaned up the Dowel Pin with a wire wheel and cleaned the underside of the Clutch Housing with Carb Cleaner and using a short, stubby Scratch Awl, I fished the Awl through the back side of the Clutch Housing to see if I could locate the hole of the Lift Lever, which I did. *I could tell I had the Awl through the Lift Lever by the weight, and I could slightly move the Lift Lever up, down and side to side.

I then inserted the tip of the Dowel Pin inside of the front hole of the Clutch Housing and tapping gently with a small hammer, I slowly nudged the Dowel Pin toward the Lift Lever until I could tell it made contact with the tip of the Scratch Awl. *I kept pressure on the Scratch Awl while gently tapping the Dowel Pin all the while driving the Scratch Awl back out the other side, until I could tell the Dowel Pin made contact with the Lift Lever, then adjusting the Lift Lever with the Awl, I centered the Lift Lever hole with the Dowel Pin, Luckily it didn't take more than a few attempts to center the hole. *I could tell by feel the Dowel Pin was inside the Lift Lever and continued tapping until the Dowel Pin was flush with both sides of the Clutch Housing. *That took no more than 20-25 minutes. *So I then crossed my fingers and prayed to the Compact Tractors Gods that this had indeed done "the trick" and fixed my ailing tractor. *I climbed aboard and fired her up, pushed in the clutch, placed it into reverse, no problem, placed it into forward and VOILA!!! *Just like new!

I cannot explain the joy and satisfaction of not succumbing to the those crooked prick JD Stealerrships! One Service manager in particular was adamant that the only way to correctly repair this issue was to split the tractor, and that he had done many of these repairs exactly that way himself.

After cleaning the underside of the Clutch Housing once more, I then sealed both ends of the Dowel Pin and Clutch Housing with E6000 Adhesive.

It has been several days now and SO FAR, SO GOOD!

 

[beenthere]

those crooked prick JD Stealerrships!

Not a fair call at all.
Put yourself in their shoes, and just pat yourself on the back for getting the job done the way you did it. Good attempt and a great outcome.

But can imagine that if you were the dealership service manager with the information you presented, that their reasonable estimate was what you rec'd.
If they had known what you managed to get away with, and you had your tractor hauled to the dealership during the busy harvesting season, and then they found out your "trick" didn't work and could only split the tractor to fix it, you'd have been even more upset. They were being upfront with you as to the potential outcome, IMO.

The dealer isn't in the business of providing free service, that our spoiled entitled liberals are so expecting these days. They have to make money to keep the doors open. Imagine how a gov't service would handle taking care of you..