John Deere 4310 - First Tractor Project - Taking All The Advice I Can Get!

   / John Deere 4310 - First Tractor Project - Taking All The Advice I Can Get! #1  

SlyFoxFarm

New member
Joined
Dec 19, 2019
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9
Tractor
John Deere 4310
Hello All

New member, so I'm going to give a little introduction. I live on a 10.5 acre homestead in the Northern Rockies. I've been looking for a tractor for snow removal (average 60" of snowfall), hauling logs (burn 4-5 cords per winter, but usually have at least two winters worth), food plot establishment (gotta fill the freezer!), and minor earthworks (grading, gravel work, etc). After saving and watching for several years I have finally purchased my first tractor!

I picked up a 2004 John Deere 4310 with a 430 FEL, eHydro, Power Beyond, R4s and about 850 hours. After establishing a price (take some guesses), I took it to our local Deere dealer for an inspection to make sure there weren't any major problems I was missing. I was able to talk to the mechanic that did the inspection and got to ask all the questions I had. One of my main concerns was with the Power Beyond, which can be used with a backhoe. I have heard that a backhoe can be hard on these tractors if used by an inexperienced operator. After looking at the points on the tractor which would be used to connect the backhoe attachment plates, he determined that this machine had not had a backhoe. It has its functional issues: lighting issues, sticking brakes, steering tilt loose, frozen (rusted) ball link on one lift arm, frozen top link, and some cosmetic issues: cracked hood, missing fuel lid, broken flasher lens, but it seems like a really solid tractor. I decided to buy my first tractor.

After making the purchase, I took it home and did a full service: Engine Oil & Filter, Transmission/Hydraulic Oil, Filters, and Suction Screen, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, & Lubricated As Recommended.

I'm looking for any advice I can get on the issues I'm seeing.

Lighting Issue: All lights work properly except for the Flashers/Signals. The Signal Lever turns them on, but they are opposite of what the manual says they should be: Pushing away lights left, and pulling towards you lights right. The Flasher/Signal lights also do not turn on when the light knob is in the Flasher position.

Sticking Brakes: The mechanic said that it looks like it had been parked for a long time at some point with the parking brake on. Whenever the brake pedals are used, the brakes stick in place. I have to go under the tractor and pull down on the arm that is connected to the spring. For now, my plan is to just not use the brakes, but wondering if this is a matter of lubrication, calibration, or possible damage?

Steering Wheel Tilt: I've seen that this is a common problem on the 4310. Sad to see such poor design on such a nice tractor. Thinking I may possibly go the route of welding in a permanent position and forgo the plastic replacement parts. Any other ideas?

Lift Arm Ball Link: The inner ball link on the right hand lift arm is frozen. I'm hoping that soaking the ball in some solvent overnight might loosen it up to where I may be able to break it loose. Was planning to then buff it with a wheel as much as I could and lube it up good. Any thoughts on what I should soak it in? Other ideas to break it loose?

Top Link: The tractor end of the Top Link is also rusted stuck. I am planning to remove the implement end of the top link and spraying some solvent down into the threaded tube, let it work its way down the stuck end. Then work on it with a pipe wrench to hopefully break it loose. Then lube the **** out of it.

Hood Crack: The front of the hood is cracked near the hood latch. Got worse on the trailer ride home down the gravel road. It is missing the fuel lid and the attachment points in the hood are broken and missing, so I will probably replace the hood, but I'm planning to rig something up to hold it together through the winter or until I have some extra cash.

That was a longer post than I had planned, not sure if anyone will read the whole thing, but if you do, please pass along any ideas, advice, or experience with any of these issues. Also, how do you think I did? Did I purchase a good tractor for my intended purposes? After give it a full service, I feel like this is a pretty solid tractor. For work I have used a smaller Kubota B2410 and a larger LS XR4155H, and I thought that I needed to be somewhere in between for my personal tractor. The 4310 seems to fit this bill.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.
 
   / John Deere 4310 - First Tractor Project - Taking All The Advice I Can Get! #2  
I also have a 2004, 4310, eHydro. It's been a decent tractor so far but I really wanted something a little heavier with more weight.

On the lights pull the bulbs and make sure the contacts are clean. Verify the base is grounded good. Also look in the fuse panel and make sure all the flashers are there. Seems like mine had a similar problem and one of the flashers was missing.

The generic hoods fit as well as factory which isn't saying much. I bought a set that had the hood, fuel door, and cowl but it didn't include the fuel door springs or the decals. I see some advertised now that have the springs, decals, and foam seals included so I suggest going that route. Make sure and install the fuel door springs while the hood is off. I couldn't get one of mine on after the hood was installed so I just left it with the left side spring on. https://www.amazon.com/Kumar-Bros-U...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B07H5HS3YX

You might want to pull the links with frozen balls off the tractor to work on them. Penetrating fluid, heat, and a long rod stuck through the hole should get them moving. I wouldn't force them in the cast aluminum housing on the tractor trying to free them up. I spray all my moving parts that may be subjected to dirt with a dry moly lube.

The brakes have a rod passing through from left to right near the pedals. It has grease fittings on top for both sides. Mine was sticking and causing the emergency brake light to stay on even when I got the brakes to release. Grease and penetrating fluid got it all freed up and working. I had to pull the right side panel to spray the emergency brake switch linkage.

Make sure and put something on the rear for ballast when using the loader. Connect the heaviest implement you have on the rear for loader work and you may need more. These tractors are very light in the rear. I added a grapple and had to build a 1200 lb 3pt ballast to use it to full capacity.
 
   / John Deere 4310 - First Tractor Project - Taking All The Advice I Can Get! #3  
G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

Rest assured, people here on TBN will read your entire post... and respond wherever we can. Great to hear that your local JD Dealership & mechanic are supportive... they should also be a great source of schematics/diagrams via the Service/Parts Department. I know that my own JD Dealership does this for free... simply to support me as a customer.

Enjoy the site.
 
   / John Deere 4310 - First Tractor Project - Taking All The Advice I Can Get! #4  
For the price guess, $8K
 
   / John Deere 4310 - First Tractor Project - Taking All The Advice I Can Get!
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I also have a 2004, 4310, eHydro. It's been a decent tractor so far but I really wanted something a little heavier with more weight.

On the lights pull the bulbs and make sure the contacts are clean. Verify the base is grounded good. Also look in the fuse panel and make sure all the flashers are there. Seems like mine had a similar problem and one of the flashers was missing.

Thanks for the advice. I checked the fuse panel and I am missing a 20A fuse in F9 which is labeled Marker Lights, I am assuming that is what they call the flashers. I swapped out the 20A F6 Headlight fuse to test in the open slot and I noticed that the F9 slot isn't tight enough to hold the fuse in. I am guessing the last one just vibrated out. I am going to inspect further in the daylight to see why the slot is loose.

After looking at the fuse panel and diagram I have a new question:

F2 & K5 - Trailer Option Fuse and Relay - What does the Trailer Option do? Is it already wired and just not being used?
 
   / John Deere 4310 - First Tractor Project - Taking All The Advice I Can Get!
  • Thread Starter
#6  
For the price guess, $8K

I wish! Looking at TractorHouse and MachineryPete, it seems that quality used compact tractors seem to be more expensive in the Pacific Northwest. And there are fewer of them for sale. One of the other tractors I looked at was a 1998 John Deere 870 asking $13,500. The guy was asking $15,700, saying the dealer had told him it was worth $17,000. I offered him quite a bit less.
 
   / John Deere 4310 - First Tractor Project - Taking All The Advice I Can Get! #7  
When messing around in the fuse panel be very careful not to put a fuse in the #12 spot. This puts the transmission in calibration mode and will disable the tractor. The calibration to get it back going can be done without special tools but it is a lengthy process.

I haven't located a trailer harness so I assume it is not there or easily accessible. I don't know what trailer specific functions it provides.

You should have relays in K & L for turn signals. In fact all 6 of the small relay slots above the fuses should be occupied.

IMG_20191221_095546808.jpg


Slot 9 has no contacts in it so a fuse will NOT do anything there. My panel also lists a 20A fuse in 8 & 9 for marker lights but a fuse will not stick into 9. Also the manual has no listing for the 9 fuse slot so I assume the tractor legend is incorrect.

fuse-panel-legend.jpg
 
   / John Deere 4310 - First Tractor Project - Taking All The Advice I Can Get!
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Slot 9 has no contacts in it so a fuse will NOT do anything there. My panel also lists a 20A fuse in 8 & 9 for marker lights but a fuse will not stick into 9. Also the manual has no listing for the 9 fuse slot so I assume the tractor legend is incorrect.

Dang, I thought I had an easy fix with a missing F9 fuse. With the turn signal lever working the opposite side that it is suppose to, I am wondering if it is something as easy as a switched connection. Was thinking about pulling off the instrument panel to see if they can be switched. While operating the hand throttle, I noticed what looked like the remnants of a mouse nest in the throttle slot, so probably pull it apart just to clean it out and check for any damage the little bastard may have done.

Glad they have a warning about putting a fuse in F12 on the panel legend!
 
   / John Deere 4310 - First Tractor Project - Taking All The Advice I Can Get! #9  
Oh yeah. Mine had a rats nest in the cowl when I got it. I didn't find any wire damage thank goodness.

Are all your relay slots occupied?
 
   / John Deere 4310 - First Tractor Project - Taking All The Advice I Can Get! #10  
That turn signal switch is pretty funky. When I push mine up the left light comes on constant and the right blinks. When I pull it down the right light comes on constant and the left blinks. When I pull it back to center sometimes I have to wiggle it to get the constant on light to go out.

I understand the desire to have everything working as it should but realistically I never plan to use my turn signals. The only time mine leaves my property is grading the dirt road and I usually just turn on the flashers.
 
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