John Deere 420-U
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DJ54
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- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
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- Location
- Carroll, Ohio
- Tractor
- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Here is a manual that doesn't look to be too bad of a deal. Covers all of the 420's.
John Deere 420 Service Manual SM2019
Also the parts catalog for the 420. I went to JD parts site, and they don't seem to catalog the older models like Case/IH, Ford/New Holland, and Massey/Agco, so it may be good investment, if you plan to keep it a good while.
John Deere 420 and 430 Parts Catalog PC505
Not to steer you away from here, but here is a more brand specific forum, devoted to JD's. Scroll on down to the "Johnny Popper" thread, or the "Tractor & Equipment Maintenance" thread. Possibly one of the fellows there may have the part number for the drive shaft. There were 8 versions of the 420 series,and I can't imagine the drive shaft being different on any of them, but could be wrong.
http://www.*********.com/forums/forum.php
I'm sure they could advise on putting one in too. I'd guess a few that farm wth JD's have a classic or two of the Dubque series around setting around.
Depending on what some people consider "hard to do" is... If you have plenty of cribbing, blocks, misc. 2X6, 1X6 scraps, plywood scraps, to shim up, to get close to blocking as level as possible, makes it a lot easier... And a floor jack, and an engine hoist, on a concrete floor can do the job. I've done it on 3/4" plywood, before getting the floor poured in my shop.
It would probabaly be easiest to split in three pieces. Separate the engine, and front end from the torque tube/clutch housing, like you would to replace a clutch. Block up the rear differential, back of the torque tube, then remove the torque tube. Drive shaft should be totally exposed. A good time to check the input shaft seal and bearing.
Going back together, I like to have a couple of 6"-8" bolts the same size, that joins the tractor engine, to torque tube. They act as long guide pins, to get back fairly close. Some shorter ones to start to pull it back togehter. Not too much force though, and spring the center of the clutch disc.
To align the splines, I engage the pto, and put a 15" spanner/crescent wrench on the pto shaft, and turn until I feel the splines align. Some gentle shaking/rocking, proper tension on the bolts, and it should slide right back together.
Just be sure to have proper blocking on the front wheels, and with the wide front end, wedge the front end where it pivots on the front axle, to keep it level, and rocking to one side, or the other...
John Deere 420 Service Manual SM2019
Also the parts catalog for the 420. I went to JD parts site, and they don't seem to catalog the older models like Case/IH, Ford/New Holland, and Massey/Agco, so it may be good investment, if you plan to keep it a good while.
John Deere 420 and 430 Parts Catalog PC505
Not to steer you away from here, but here is a more brand specific forum, devoted to JD's. Scroll on down to the "Johnny Popper" thread, or the "Tractor & Equipment Maintenance" thread. Possibly one of the fellows there may have the part number for the drive shaft. There were 8 versions of the 420 series,and I can't imagine the drive shaft being different on any of them, but could be wrong.
http://www.*********.com/forums/forum.php
I'm sure they could advise on putting one in too. I'd guess a few that farm wth JD's have a classic or two of the Dubque series around setting around.
Depending on what some people consider "hard to do" is... If you have plenty of cribbing, blocks, misc. 2X6, 1X6 scraps, plywood scraps, to shim up, to get close to blocking as level as possible, makes it a lot easier... And a floor jack, and an engine hoist, on a concrete floor can do the job. I've done it on 3/4" plywood, before getting the floor poured in my shop.
It would probabaly be easiest to split in three pieces. Separate the engine, and front end from the torque tube/clutch housing, like you would to replace a clutch. Block up the rear differential, back of the torque tube, then remove the torque tube. Drive shaft should be totally exposed. A good time to check the input shaft seal and bearing.
Going back together, I like to have a couple of 6"-8" bolts the same size, that joins the tractor engine, to torque tube. They act as long guide pins, to get back fairly close. Some shorter ones to start to pull it back togehter. Not too much force though, and spring the center of the clutch disc.
To align the splines, I engage the pto, and put a 15" spanner/crescent wrench on the pto shaft, and turn until I feel the splines align. Some gentle shaking/rocking, proper tension on the bolts, and it should slide right back together.
Just be sure to have proper blocking on the front wheels, and with the wide front end, wedge the front end where it pivots on the front axle, to keep it level, and rocking to one side, or the other...
