John Deere 4100 Electrical Problem

[RitchElbe]

nope last is a 30a...always has been..original one is still there and local shop asked me to make sure it was a 30a. currently trying to find a decent wiring diagram to trace down the wiring.. about 6"inches into the bundle the white wire changes to red and black

 

[RitchElbe]

nope last is a 30a...always has been..original one is still there and local shop asked me to make sure it was a 30a. currently trying to find a decent wiring diagram to trace down the wiring.. about 6"inches into the bundle the white wire changes to red and black

 

[RitchElbe]

soo..I found two wiring diagrams via another post..my reading of such is way rusty...not convinced they are correct...since they show several fuses more than the 4 on the fire wall and the flood lights as secondary circuit with a 10amp fuse right before the main fuse...does anyone out there have a confirmed wiring diagram

 

[RitchElbe]

UPDATE: somewhere between the right side connection and the left side plug to the light switch a connection was failing.. I don't see them installing a fuse at that location behind the engine block. so I created a bypass. installing a fuse on the old line just in case, a fuse on the new, all is working as it should now...thanks for the help everyone!

 

[RitchElbe]

The nightmare returns. Last night during the clearing of all the snow...Lights worked great until about 20mins prior from stopping for the night.
They just stopped..everything else kept working. So today I start checking everything.
1: from switch to fuse 12v+
2: switch thru fuse to connection at light ( while unplugged from light) 12v+ while Multimeter is grounded to frame bar lights use as a ground.
3: reconnect lights NOTHING!! ug..
4: connect 12volt Battery directly to each light..WORKING!! connect to both lights/grounded via frame WORKING!!
5: connect spare battery to light feed at fuse ( fuse removed so as not to back feed) ground to frame, check circuit with Multimeter 12.87v
6: removed Multimeter and connected lights to hot wire from battery at fuse holder, battery NEG still connected to ground bar...WORKING!!...
7: Verify voltage from switch to connection point at light again 12v+ grounded to bar...connect lights...nothing

The lights work when connected to a battery other than main one in the tractor, even though 12v+ is passing thru the circuit. when connected back to frame
and extra battery grounded to frame they work.. ...
There is power from the switch of 12v+ to the lights when Multimeter is grounded to frame or light bar ground..
But when the lights are reconnected...they do not work!!

UGH!!&: shakes head...growls...takes picture..turns dark..calls it a night to post image here

 

[Towmater]

Sounds like a inline fuse or relay that runs to the tractor battery. Do the lights work after it sits for a while? Dumb question but searching here. If it was a double ground problem the lights would never work so that doesn't sound like your issue.

 

[RitchElbe]

All the original lights work, the additions I replaced worked for almost 3 hrs of bouncing and plowing. My first thought was ,,well$7 lights, bulbs went..but they're good, tested fuse normal ways replaced just in case..all good..weirdest thing I've ever seen

 

[RitchElbe]

by all rights,,,with 12v+ showing at the connection plug that connects to the lights, via a multimeter grounding to the bar..the lights should work when I remove the meter and connect the lights

 

[jimmysisson]

Intermittent ground open from ROPS to frame? It sounds like you've tested all the positive leads.
Jim

 

[RitchElbe]

Good connection from ROPEs to frame .... I'm thinking it is something silly and simple or pure MURPHY!! so today..I decided to work on the Jim Dandy...clear my head of John Deere for abit