John Deere 14T baler prob

[bootsgmc]

First off, I'm glad I found this site!! Secondly, go easy on me, I'm a gal!!! Anyway, the problem is, our baler will not tie one side..it ties the oneside every single time, but the other side never ties..we've rolled it thru by hand, watching everything, dad adjusted the tucker finger a few times..he has a manual and everything is according to specs..the problem we noticed, when rolling it by hand, is that the twine seems to come off prematurely..and ideas on how to fix it? We've tried everything and nothing..we did about 100 or so bales the other day and it tied 5 on it's own! I know haying isn't supposed to be that much work! Last year, it tied pretty decent, out of 10 bales, maybe 1 wouldn't tie..any thoughts guys? My dad is about to lose his mind!!!

 

[Mike120]

What kind of twine are you using? The old balers don't seem to like the new poly twine as it's too slick. My old IH-37 baler chokes on the new stuff. It only likes the sisal twine.

 

[bootsgmc]

We use the old fashion sisal twine...like I said in first post, the one side will tie every single time, but the other side slips off too soon...last year just a few problems with it, but this year, as dad said, if it was made of wood, it'd have been on fire by now!!!!

 

[zzvyb6]

Couple of possibilities....

No reason that plastic twine won't work. That's all I use in my 14t. How is pull tension? By that I mean: if you pull on the twine from the twine disk, about how much force does it take to get it to move out of the twine box? You need fish scale to measure it (15lbs)

Do you have it threaded properly? The twine box ought to have a twine routing diagram inside the cover. If not Check the manual.

Are the needles placing the twine properly in the twine disk? And does it hold the twine when it revolves?

Is there a lot of dirt around the hay dogs (in the bottom of the bale case). These keep the last flake in position so that the twine stays tight enough to make the knot.

Are there sharp edges or nicks in the twine disk that may be cutting the twine instead of it being held onto?

Is the billhook revolving? Is the billhook tongue opening to receive the knot parts?

Does the twine get pulled out of the twine disk (not enough tension).

Is there a partial knot formed or nothing at all?

Tucker fingers are the usuall culprit. Make sure they swing together and to the same maximum angle. However, twine pulling of the billhook sounds like a twine disk problem: either its not geting the twine from the needle or its not holding onto it after the needles withdraw.

Having one working is a good place to start a comparison. As you roll it over by hand, check to see that all actions happen at about the same time. If they are good, then start looking at spring tensions: twine disk holder, billhook finger, twine tension at the twine box. Keep the conversation going until it gets working. Then tell us what what the final solution.


I presume that the sisal you are using is good square bale twine. Try reversing the twine bales and see if the problem moves to the other knotter.
Gulliver is a bit far for a road trip, but you never know.... ( I'm in Brighton).

Have you checked my knotter video on YouTube?

 

[bootsgmc]

Thanks for all the advice!! Finally got it!! I was gone to Little League finals and when I came home, it was working..cleaned it up a bit, and messed mainly with the tuckerfinger, getting that adjusted..too much, not enough..but finally got it where it needs to be..did a test run, tied the **** out of all the bales!!! Thanks for the replies!

Oh yea, I know Brighton is a ways, I've been there..quite a few years ago!!!

 

[SPYDERLK]

What kind of twine are you using? The old balers don't seem to like the new poly twine as it's too slick. My old IH-37 baler chokes on the new stuff. It only likes the sisal twine.

Mine too. And it works pretty darn good on the 10000' weight. How much HP do you use to run yours effectively. Theres discussion on another thread about needing big tractors to run a sq baler. Not me.
larry

 

[bootsgmc]

My dad usually pulls the baler, he has an OLD H..not sure of the size..the other day tho, we used our tractor to pull it, which is just a little Ford N, I think it's a '41...and it pulled it just nicely..no big tractor for us!! Since adjusting the tucker finger, it's baling like crazy..seems nice to have it working like it should!!

 

[zzvyb6]

No reason that a baler can't use plastic twine. There are 2 adjustments that must be made. First is at the exit of the twine bale case. The pull tension is adjusted by turning down the springs on the clamps. there is a spec on the pull force for this station. Second is at the twine disk. There is a spring force setting here, too. This is the force necessary to hold the twine in the disk. Slippery twine needs more clamping force. Note that this conversion goes the other way. Switching to sisal means you need to reduce the twine holding forces.

There is no dimensional criteria in the knotter system. Thickness has no real bearing on its operation (other than the stuff has to pass thru the needle eyes and the billhook tongue). Yes you can thread round bale plastic twine and make it work. But, its not strong enough to hold a heavy bale together when you drop it 20 feet from a hay mow onto a concrete landing.

 

[Mike120]

Mine too. And it works pretty darn good on the 10000' weight. How much HP do you use to run yours effectively. Theres discussion on another thread about needing big tractors to run a sq baler. Not me.
larry

Smallest thing I've got that's currently running has 50hp. It has no problem with the baler.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Smallest thing I've got that's currently running has 50hp. It has no problem with the baler.

No problem with Kub L2550 -- 27 ptohp, on the IH 37 .
larry

 

[bootsgmc]

Our Ford 8N is only 22-25 horse and we had NO problem pulling our baler with it..my dad's old Farmall H is 24-28 horse and it pulls it like nothing..who says you have to have BIG tractors to do ur farmin??!!

 

[zzvyb6]

There has been quite a discussion on here about power requirements for baling hay. However, the confusion reigns when issues about baling on Mt Everest, towing 2 wagons with a kick baler, baling 40 acres in 1/2 hour, and of course, lets not forget the hemaroid sufferers and their jerky machinery....

That 14T came with an optional 16hp Wisconsin standalone drive motor (good demo of such a deal on YouTube). The way folks talk their 'farming' religion on here makes you forget that getting a job done sometimes means doing it with what you have and can get by with instead of how quick you get it done just so you can make your kid's ballet recital or go sofa trolling.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Our Ford 8N is only 22-25 horse and we had NO problem pulling our baler with it..my dad's old Farmall H is 24-28 horse and it pulls it like nothing..who says you have to have BIG tractors to do ur farmin??!!

Apparently some sq balers run a lot faster and you can pull them pretty fast. Evidently most of the posters in this thread are more familiar with them and tend to think theyre all that way.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...isons/124879-baling-compact-minimum-size.html

larry

 

[bootsgmc]

I'm not sure if there was an underlying tone to those replies or not..when it comes to the land that we bale, it isn't ours..it's a friend of the families..and all our equipment is so old..we can't afford new stuff..my dad old H practically came home in a box, along with an old M..which him and my husband worked on like a jigsaw puzzle and got them running..our little Ford was given to use by my inlaws..our rake and one of our mowers is older than the hills..we can't afford to run out and buy the fancy new stuff..when something brakes, we have to cobble it back together to get the job done..so when it comes to hurrying to get the job done, believe me, that is not the case up here.

 

[Chief2]

Glad I happened across this site! I just signed up, so I hope I'm doing this right. Regarding a 14T baler, I've got one too. Picked it up last fall, and spent the winter getting familiar with all the components. I've got a parts manual and operators manual, using sisial (? spelling), not plastic, that came with it, and looks like new. Over all it seems in good shape for it's age (estimating 1956 by serial#). I bought it from a guy who used to cut and bale our hay. He broke a shear pin, and subsequently the needles. After he replaced the needles it wouldn't tie a knot on the inside knotter, so he gave up on it and bought a newer one. I've been all over the manual, setting the timing and tensions to the best of my ability, but it still won't tie properly on the inside, and now not very well on the outside (left facing the tounge). I don't know squat about balers, only what I've been able to gleen from the manual and other message boards out there. Some of the instructions are a bit cloudy to me, for instance it says to 'bend the wiper arm to the right'. Right of what? Depends on where you're standing which way is right! I'd like to know someone who knows these machines to show me how to adjust it. I'm pretty sure it could be a good baler for my use, if I only knew how to operate it!