John Deer 4300 left side plate broke off 3 point hitch center/stabilizer/upper plates.

[HunterTHEwelder]

So, I'm not sure what these are called, no one else seems to name them either, but the 3 point hitch has two plates above, which are singular to the casting, or molded into the case. Where as, other tractors, these two plates BOLT on, thru replaceable. Not so here. I am a welder/fabricator/customizer/repair-er. A friend showed me his homestead prize...this JD 4300, with the aforementioned plate broke off. Asked if i could weld it, as I have mobile service as well, do a lot of farm equipment here in central Ohio. Tuck that under yur hat, if ya want, but my purpose in joining and forming this thread, is it seems there are a LOT of people encountering this issue. My friend went around and around with John Deer, and beat price he could get was $6,000. Crazy. So i did my.own research, found the maker of this particular part (Hema, made in Turkey). As they are, no comlany would give me a weld procedure they just want ti sell ya a new part. So.... I just welded the thing.
We couldnt know how this would go, so considered this a temporarily permanent fix...aiming to use at least one of the 3 holes. I cut a triangular piece of 1/4" plate, plazed a single 3/4" hole. If it holds up, we may revisit later and weld a bigger plate with 3 holes, if it fails....owner says done with JD. Lol
Again, posting this for other people, so, heres my weld procedure: to reduce the amount of heat, again, just welding a small plate. Also using a smaller electrode, size 3/32, 7018 rod running about 80 amps on my Miller Bobcat 250....for all you farm boys with the old Lincoln "Tombstone" welders, you can run that "AC only" 7018 just the same. I kept my weld passes short and intermittent, with around 15 to 20 min in between, to maintain as low of overall temp as possible. With a nice shade tree and tall glass of lemonade thisnis one of the better mobile service calls I've completed. Im actually writting this, as it cools from final welds. Will post once my friend actually puts some pressure on the repair, and attach some pics. For the record, again, he was quoted 6 thousand dollars for total replacement, labor included of course. As a mobile welder, I charge $125/hr, and Ive been here 2.5 hrs.

 

[ruffdog]

It looks like you got that replacement ear stuck on there pretty good.

 

[Jerry/MT]

That piece should mainly have tension and compression loads to react from the top link ball/pin. The ball would allow a force componet side wise It looks like there was an applied side load.

Nice weld!

 

[ruffdog]

One way that ear could get that side force to break it off is if the hitch pin came part way out and torqued only on one ear.

 

[old and tired]

I'm not a welder but heard it's hard to weld Cast (I assume that's what the "ear" is made of). Would putting down a base bead on the cast metal without the tab first, help it hold the ear onto the tractor (weld the tab with the hole afterwards) or is straight welding the ear to the cast strong enough?

Again, NOT a welding, trying to learn more...

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Cast steel should be no problem. I think the only cast iron part on modern tractors is the exhaust manifold. You may run into Nodular cast but it welds pretty good. Not as easy to weld as steel but its close. Manifolds; gray cast, I build a fire for that. Get it hot, work it hot, cool it slow. Weld it until it starts making noise, back into fire, take out and weld a little more, so on. Then I throw back in the fire, and leave it. Letting it all burn down to coals and finally go out. That is about the slowest way I can cool it.