JM254 Injector Pump? Pic

[YukonKing]

Hi Guys,

Mine was unscrewed almost to the point of falling out, and leaking diesel. My machine is a brand new JM254.

What is this for, does anybody know of a good reference for these injector pumps?

 

[DieselPower]

Looks kind of like a primer pump. When you change your fuel filter you use this pump to purge the air out of the system. There's probably a bleeder screw somewhere to. That's what it looks like to me.

 

[YukonKing]

Well S-hit I just realised the pic says what it is. I got the pic off of RanchHandSupply.

Still though any good reference/repair/adjustment for these pumps?

Thanks

 

[DieselPower]

Looking at the picture it looks to have a hex base behind the hose. It should unscrew out. Where is it leaking from, around the plunger shaft? If it is it would probably be easiest to just replace the primer pump assembly. I have changed plenty of them on Caterpillar, International and Cummins engines over the years. Nothing really difficlut, unscrew or unbolt the pump and install the new one.

 

[Bob Rooks]

The hand priming pump shown in the picture is also the fuel transfer (supply) pump. It is driven off of a cam on the injector pump shaft. The injector pump assembly and governor is very close to the old Bosch system used by Caterpillar and many other engine manufacturers. I doubt you will find any info on the injection pumps anywhere; to do barrel, plunger & helix work is usually beyond the capability of the average mechanic, that is unless they have a Bacharach test and calibration stand under that shade tree too.

Be sure the plunger is pushed all the way down and snugly screwed in clockwise.

Changing out the transfer pump can be done while you're having coffee.

 

[greg_g]

Mine was unscrewed almost to the point of falling out, and leaking diesel.

There's absolutely nothing inside that thing except for a plunger with an O-ring seal around the circumference. If it's leaking out the bottom, the barrel simply needs to be tightened. If it's leaking at the top, the internal O-ring is shot. I've never had any luck getting the plunger out to replace just the O-ring. My Mercedes has one just like it, replacement cost under $10 bucks.

//greg//

 

[YukonKing]

Thanks All,

I Just imported this recently and am in the midst of assembly, all info is welcomed.

 

[hill]

What's the date of manufacture of your tractor, Yukon?

I'm asking because I've just gotten a JM 254 with a date of 4-07 and it has a diffent looking pump than yours. It has a priming pump in nearly the same place but it's got a fairly long rubber cap on it. There's a large keyring looking gizmo through a bolt head in front of the injector tubes that hasn't made sense to me yet,

 

[Bob Rooks]

There's a large keyring looking gizmo through a bolt head in front of the injector tubes that hasn't made sense to me yet,

Got a picture of it?

 

[RonMar]

What's the date of manufacture of your tractor, Yukon?

I'm asking because I've just gotten a JM 254 with a date of 4-07 and it has a diffent looking pump than yours. It has a priming pump in nearly the same place but it's got a fairly long rubber cap on it. There's a large keyring looking gizmo through a bolt head in front of the injector tubes that hasn't made sense to me yet,

Hill
The bolt with the ring thru it sounds like the injecter pump body air bleed. It has a ring thru it so you can open it by hand. It is probably adjacent to #1 injectors high pressure outlet? There may be another small bolt the same size without the ring back near #3's HP outlet.

Yukonking
Where exactly is it leaking from? Does it leak with the cap/pump plunger handle down and screwed all the way in? Does it leak when setting or when the engine is running?

 

[Red55]

Hill-
Ronmar is right the key is a bleeder for air. Just got my new Jinma turn it quarter turn to let air out of fuel line. Here's another question about fuel injector pump I drained my and about 5 oz of oil came out. . . (thought these pumps held 4 oz) added about 8 oz and oil still didnot come out of overfil hole. I don't like to over or under fill that why I pay attention to how much comes out and how much I add back. . So should I add more (thru vent cap at top) until it comes out overflow?
Ed

 

[Affordable]

If you cannot get it to stop leaking,we have replacement primer pumps in stock.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[bluechip]

It can take a long time for the oil to flow forward from the governor section into the pump section. the elbow comes with a plactic cap on it which needs to be removed. Once it starts coming out this fitting, it can drip a long time.

Not sure this answers your question, but I would say yes, then let it drip out until it stops and you will know you have the correct amount of oil in there

 

[Red55]

Thanks Chip I knew about the black cap & the overflow banjo screw w tube on it. I just didn't want to over fill it. I do it again tonight and let it sit overnite with the overfill open, as per your advice. Thanks Ed

 

[hill]

Thanks for the air bleeder info! What a convenient feature that is.

I take it from the discussion of injection pump oil that the pump does not obtain it's lube from the crankcase and must be filled/changed separately?

Yukon, sorry about this OT question, but it IS about the pump.

I've just gotten a Jinma 254 and am fascinated with it. It's in my shop and I'm going all over it to learn and hopefully forstall future problems resulting from what seems to me to be a pretty thoughtless or hasty initial assembly. Mostly it's that hoses, especially hydraulic hoses were allowed to be in such proximity to brackets, cables, and other rub points that they're doomed to early failure. So I'm 'adjusting' them, and I'm learning good things about what I'm coming to think is a pretty neat tractor.

Don't ask me to compare the ease of getting onto the seat of this Jinma with that of my Kubota, though. Me and my big feet are the wrong pair to ask about tha!

 

[Red55]

Hill
Yes the fuel injector pump has it's own oil and doesnot use the engine oil. Do a search and you should find some pictures. On my pump there are two screws (13mm) with copper washers on the bottom to drain the pump. To fill the pump You take off the vent cap. Some older pumps have a dip stick. . my pump has an over flow bango screw with a tube attached covered by a black plastic cap. There is several opinions on what type of oil to use. . . Some use compressor oil and others use the same type of oil that's inthe engine. Good Luck. Ed

 

[YukonKing]

Thanks all for the replies. I've been caught up working on mine. I tightened the pump plunger, all is good now. But now I have more problems. Read my new thread!!!!

My feet have a **** of a time to get into the saddle. But I love this Jinma.

 

[hill]

Hill-
Ronmar is right the key is a bleeder for air. Just got my new Jinma turn it quarter turn to let air out of fuel line. Here's another question about fuel injector pump I drained my and about 5 oz of oil came out. . . (thought these pumps held 4 oz) added about 8 oz and oil still didnot come out of overfil hole. I don't like to over or under fill that why I pay attention to how much comes out and how much I add back. . So should I add more (thru vent cap at top) until it comes out overflow?
Ed

Ed, in my searching around I know I saw one instruction in someone's preservice routine that included the line "it takes about a pint" refering to the fill of the injection pump.

I probably found that somewhere in the "Chinese Tractor Owner's Association" website, but it'd take me half a day to be able to point you closer with a link.

I don't think that measuring the amount drained to determine how much to put in is a very prudent approach. I've found low oil levels throughout my new Jinma.

Coolant too - it was EMPTY ! and the petcock at the bottom of the radiator was in the 'open' position. I closed that and began to fill but it wasn't too long before I discovered that the engine block drain petcock was ALSO OPEN!

Word - Unless buying a Chines tractor from a known reputable dealer DO perform a thorough preservice procedure before going out happily to play in the dirt. If you search the website of one of the great eastern dealers who posts here with a name including the word "Ranch" you can find a good description of a preservice that they perform on every tractor they sell.

 

[Red55]

hi Hill- when u don't know what you're doing ya double check everything! (referring to myself) I found thanks to chip my fuel injector pump took almost 12 oz so it was low to be begin with. Also the new oil I drained was pretty dirty for only 3 hours use. . . I will change everything again at 10 hrs. Oil is cheap compared to time to fix it. With the antifreeze I did a Flush and drained it at least 3x to get all the crap Ops I mean rust out of system. I used Final Charge Global antifreeze (it's for wet sleeve engines) Still playing with tractor ED

 

[hill]

Red,

I stopped at 10 oz. because I've seen conflicting info about the capacity of the pump that ranges from 4 to your 12 ounces. It looks like there have been at least three versions of injector pump used on JM 254/284 tractors with yours, mine, and possibly YukonKing's being the latest.

My engine is marked 3/07 on the valve cover plate for a 4/07 tractor assembly from the plate on the fender.

Anyway, I'm going to keep a close eye on the pump breather (fill plug) as it may be that we've put more oil in than is intended to be there. It's a splash lube system and apparently there are large parts in the pump that could be capable of flinging oil every which-a-way. If it is true that a fairly small fill is intended there may be seals that are not designed to hold back a flood.

This is mostly guesswork, and any more knowledgable input will be appreciated.....(hint, hint)