Jinma heating up

[mrworth]

I have a AgKing (jinma) 28 hp that I bought new with 7 hrs on it. It has a koyker 140 fel and a 6.5 3 point bh. I used the tractor for about 2 to 3 hours and noticed the temp gauge was in the red approaching 120 but not there yet. I shut the tractor off and after awhile checked and then filled the radiator with water ( about 1/2 gal.) everything was fine , temp around 80 for the next 7 or 8 hours of use. Yesterday I noticed water in a spot I was using the tractor in and thought I would check the radiator again, again it took almost a 1/2 gal. temp was still at 80 though , did not heat up that time. after I started it back up I watched the overflow tube off of the radiator cap and noticed it was spitting out fluid sometimes in a stream and after a while in "puffs" I am hoping a new cap is the answer but am a little scared of what it " might be" Tractor is one week old and warranty states " parts only" obviously the labor would be the bigger bill if its a head gasket problem. Hope someone can help with some insight, Is it serious or simple. Thanks

 

[mrworth]

I have a AgKing (jinma) 28 hp that I bought new with 7 hrs on it. It has a koyker 140 fel and a 6.5 3 point bh. I used the tractor for about 2 to 3 hours and noticed the temp gauge was in the red approaching 120 but not there yet. I shut the tractor off and after awhile checked and then filled the radiator with water ( about 1/2 gal.) everything was fine , temp around 80 for the next 7 or 8 hours of use. Yesterday I noticed water in a spot I was using the tractor in and thought I would check the radiator again, again it took almost a 1/2 gal. temp was still at 80 though , did not heat up that time. after I started it back up I watched the overflow tube off of the radiator cap and noticed it was spitting out fluid sometimes in a stream and after a while in "puffs" I am hoping a new cap is the answer but am a little scared of what it " might be" Tractor is one week old and warranty states " parts only" obviously the labor would be the bigger bill if its a head gasket problem. Hope someone can help with some insight, Is it serious or simple. Thanks

 

[bluechip]

We have had several of htese tractor burp a little water from time to time. I would check the torque of the head bolts as a precaution, then perhaps add a bit of stop leak if the new cap does not cure the problem. be sure there is no milkyness to the oil which would indicate other problems. You might also check with your dealer if he is close. We sell our KAMAs with parts only warranty but if I had a tractor with a headgasket failure right out of the box and the customer could get the tractor to my shop I would certainly replace the head gasket for free. of course if your dealer is a long distance away, the transportation cost could exceed the labor, but you might ask your dealer for help. But we are probably getting ahead here, try the cap and stop leak and see how it goes. I understand many new engines are shipped with anti leak additives from the factory. I used to think it would gum up the works but some of the new products are designed to flow free till they find a leak.

 

[bluechip]

We have had several of htese tractor burp a little water from time to time. I would check the torque of the head bolts as a precaution, then perhaps add a bit of stop leak if the new cap does not cure the problem. be sure there is no milkyness to the oil which would indicate other problems. You might also check with your dealer if he is close. We sell our KAMAs with parts only warranty but if I had a tractor with a headgasket failure right out of the box and the customer could get the tractor to my shop I would certainly replace the head gasket for free. of course if your dealer is a long distance away, the transportation cost could exceed the labor, but you might ask your dealer for help. But we are probably getting ahead here, try the cap and stop leak and see how it goes. I understand many new engines are shipped with anti leak additives from the factory. I used to think it would gum up the works but some of the new products are designed to flow free till they find a leak.

 

[JINMA224XR]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have a AgKing (jinma) 28 hp that I bought new with 7 hrs on it. It has a koyker 140 fel and a 6.5 3 point bh. I used the tractor for about 2 to 3 hours and noticed the temp gauge was in the red approaching 120 but not there yet. I shut the tractor off and after awhile checked and then filled the radiator with water ( about 1/2 gal.) everything was fine , temp around 80 for the next 7 or 8 hours of use. Yesterday I noticed water in a spot I was using the tractor in and thought I would check the radiator again, again it took almost a 1/2 gal. temp was still at 80 though , did not heat up that time. after I started it back up I watched the overflow tube off of the radiator cap and noticed it was spitting out fluid sometimes in a stream and after a while in "puffs" I am hoping a new cap is the answer but am a little scared of what it " might be" Tractor is one week old and warranty states " parts only" obviously the labor would be the bigger bill if its a head gasket problem. Hope someone can help with some insight, Is it serious or simple. Thanks )</font>

Hey Mr Worth,

You need to get this fixed NOW.

I had this same problem on a 2 cylinder 24 hp Shenniu, that did this same thing, that I bought new, from the get go. Just like you are describing.

I did as you are thinking, put a new radiator cap on. The New Improved Radiator CAp, allowed more pressure, that eventually ruptured the Radiator..... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Well what is going on is the radiator is getting pressurized from an incoming, leak somewhere. When it gets too much pressure, then the coolant comes out the overflow. Now the problem is, trying to find where that incoming leak is coming from.

I put a new head gasket on that Shenniu, and it still had an overflow, problem, so I rigged up an overflow/recovery system, and eventually sold the tractor.

On my New Jinma, I put Bars Leak in from the get go, and retorqued the headbolts, as soon as I could. So far, my cooling system is tight.

My advice is to take it back to your Dealer and Get Him to Fix it or Try to trade for another Tractor. It may be an outside remote possibility, that they did not tighten the Headbolts to the correct torque.

Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[JINMA224XR]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have a AgKing (jinma) 28 hp that I bought new with 7 hrs on it. It has a koyker 140 fel and a 6.5 3 point bh. I used the tractor for about 2 to 3 hours and noticed the temp gauge was in the red approaching 120 but not there yet. I shut the tractor off and after awhile checked and then filled the radiator with water ( about 1/2 gal.) everything was fine , temp around 80 for the next 7 or 8 hours of use. Yesterday I noticed water in a spot I was using the tractor in and thought I would check the radiator again, again it took almost a 1/2 gal. temp was still at 80 though , did not heat up that time. after I started it back up I watched the overflow tube off of the radiator cap and noticed it was spitting out fluid sometimes in a stream and after a while in "puffs" I am hoping a new cap is the answer but am a little scared of what it " might be" Tractor is one week old and warranty states " parts only" obviously the labor would be the bigger bill if its a head gasket problem. Hope someone can help with some insight, Is it serious or simple. Thanks )</font>

Hey Mr Worth,

You need to get this fixed NOW.

I had this same problem on a 2 cylinder 24 hp Shenniu, that did this same thing, that I bought new, from the get go. Just like you are describing.

I did as you are thinking, put a new radiator cap on. The New Improved Radiator CAp, allowed more pressure, that eventually ruptured the Radiator..... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Well what is going on is the radiator is getting pressurized from an incoming, leak somewhere. When it gets too much pressure, then the coolant comes out the overflow. Now the problem is, trying to find where that incoming leak is coming from.

I put a new head gasket on that Shenniu, and it still had an overflow, problem, so I rigged up an overflow/recovery system, and eventually sold the tractor.

On my New Jinma, I put Bars Leak in from the get go, and retorqued the headbolts, as soon as I could. So far, my cooling system is tight.

My advice is to take it back to your Dealer and Get Him to Fix it or Try to trade for another Tractor. It may be an outside remote possibility, that they did not tighten the Headbolts to the correct torque.

Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[johnk]

Check the oil level and make sure the coolant didn't get in the oil. This would be a sign of a head gasket leak if the oil level is way high. Good luck and let us know how you make out...

 

[johnk]

Check the oil level and make sure the coolant didn't get in the oil. This would be a sign of a head gasket leak if the oil level is way high. Good luck and let us know how you make out...

 

[bruce1966us]

Try the cheap fix first (radiator cap). The OEM caps weren't very efficient.

 

[bruce1966us]

Try the cheap fix first (radiator cap). The OEM caps weren't very efficient.

 

[RonMar]

It is normal for a full radiator to vent a certain ammount of fluid as it expands when heated. Without an overflow tank, you will always find the radiator needs fluid when cold. When the system cools after shutdown and the coolant contracts, without an overflow tank with fluid in it (and the overflow hose below the top level of the fluid), the system draws air back in through the overflow hose and the check valve located in the radiator pressure cap.

Before tearing into things, I would first determine how much fluid is being dumped and wether it is capable of being restored to the radiator as it cools. In order to do this, you need to make at least a temporary overflow container. You can buy generic versions of these at Napa or Shucks or you can buy a $.99 clear water bottle at Walmart and ty-wrap it in place. Here is a link to John's jinma site showing how I setup the recovery tank on my 284.
http://johnstractor.homestead.com/AirfilterCoolantRec.html
You want the bottle up near the same height as the top of the radiator with the overflow hose going all the way to the bottom of the tank. The tank also needs an air vent on the top.

If everything is normal, after a few heat/cold cycles, any air will be purged from the coling system and the radiator will remain full every time you check it when cold. As the fluid expands when heated and the system pressure exceeds the rateing on the pressure cap, fluid is pushed into the overflow tank. As the system cools after shutdown and the fluid contracts, the same ammount of fluid is drawn back into the radiator, keeping it full.

If you find the radiator is not staying full even with fluid in the overflow tank, one of 2 things is happening.
1. There is a very small leak in the system somewhere and as the system cools, air is being drawn in through that leak instead of fluid being drawn back from the overflow tank. Since any vented fluid should be going into the tank, any fluid found on the tractor or the ground will indicate a coolant leak.
2. Either a headgasket or cracked structure is allowing combustion air/gas from a cylinder to be forced into the cooling system. These problems usually get worse and as they progress, this excess air pressure can be observed bubbling from the hose in the overflow tank while the engine is running. Higher engine RPM/engine load will = more bubbles. Since the combustion air has diesel fuel in it, you will also start to see an oil residue buildup in the overflow tank. That and to see bubbles is why you want a clear overflow tank.

 

[RonMar]

It is normal for a full radiator to vent a certain ammount of fluid as it expands when heated. Without an overflow tank, you will always find the radiator needs fluid when cold. When the system cools after shutdown and the coolant contracts, without an overflow tank with fluid in it (and the overflow hose below the top level of the fluid), the system draws air back in through the overflow hose and the check valve located in the radiator pressure cap.

Before tearing into things, I would first determine how much fluid is being dumped and wether it is capable of being restored to the radiator as it cools. In order to do this, you need to make at least a temporary overflow container. You can buy generic versions of these at Napa or Shucks or you can buy a $.99 clear water bottle at Walmart and ty-wrap it in place. Here is a link to John's jinma site showing how I setup the recovery tank on my 284.
http://johnstractor.homestead.com/AirfilterCoolantRec.html
You want the bottle up near the same height as the top of the radiator with the overflow hose going all the way to the bottom of the tank. The tank also needs an air vent on the top.

If everything is normal, after a few heat/cold cycles, any air will be purged from the coling system and the radiator will remain full every time you check it when cold. As the fluid expands when heated and the system pressure exceeds the rateing on the pressure cap, fluid is pushed into the overflow tank. As the system cools after shutdown and the fluid contracts, the same ammount of fluid is drawn back into the radiator, keeping it full.

If you find the radiator is not staying full even with fluid in the overflow tank, one of 2 things is happening.
1. There is a very small leak in the system somewhere and as the system cools, air is being drawn in through that leak instead of fluid being drawn back from the overflow tank. Since any vented fluid should be going into the tank, any fluid found on the tractor or the ground will indicate a coolant leak.
2. Either a headgasket or cracked structure is allowing combustion air/gas from a cylinder to be forced into the cooling system. These problems usually get worse and as they progress, this excess air pressure can be observed bubbling from the hose in the overflow tank while the engine is running. Higher engine RPM/engine load will = more bubbles. Since the combustion air has diesel fuel in it, you will also start to see an oil residue buildup in the overflow tank. That and to see bubbles is why you want a clear overflow tank.

 

[greg_g]

If you're just using tap water only - rather than a coolant/water mix - you'll be topping up that radiator regularly until you either sell it, or install a coolant recovery system - whichever happens first. I highly recommend you at start using at least a 50/50 coolant/water mixture, up to 70/30 depending upon the severity of your winters. See how that works first, then consider installing an aftermarket coolant recovery system. Important - the OE cap is not designed for coolant recovery.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

If you're just using tap water only - rather than a coolant/water mix - you'll be topping up that radiator regularly until you either sell it, or install a coolant recovery system - whichever happens first. I highly recommend you at start using at least a 50/50 coolant/water mixture, up to 70/30 depending upon the severity of your winters. See how that works first, then consider installing an aftermarket coolant recovery system. Important - the OE cap is not designed for coolant recovery.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Important - the OE cap is not designed for coolant recovery.

//greg// )</font>

Greg, Good point. The OE cap that came with my 284(Apr 05 production date) WAS already setup for coolant recovery(check valve on inner seal). All I had to do was add the tank and hose. The first tank I made was out of a old forest service throw-away canteen(white plastic bottle) I had in a bunch of old camping gear. I ty-wrapped it in place to the air hose between filter and manifold till I found the tank I currently have at Napa.

 

[RonMar]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Important - the OE cap is not designed for coolant recovery.

//greg// )</font>

Greg, Good point. The OE cap that came with my 284(Apr 05 production date) WAS already setup for coolant recovery(check valve on inner seal). All I had to do was add the tank and hose. The first tank I made was out of a old forest service throw-away canteen(white plastic bottle) I had in a bunch of old camping gear. I ty-wrapped it in place to the air hose between filter and manifold till I found the tank I currently have at Napa.

 

[TSMART]

This thread makes me want to know.....how often should I change the coolant?
Also, how often to change out the cap? (new jinma 224, hot florida climate)....just curious.

 

[TSMART]

This thread makes me want to know.....how often should I change the coolant?
Also, how often to change out the cap? (new jinma 224, hot florida climate)....just curious.

 

[schmalts]

All things aside i doubt it is the radiator cap because it is still overheating too.

 

[schmalts]

All things aside i doubt it is the radiator cap because it is still overheating too.